Is yamalube worth it?

Classic Parker Boat Forum

Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
No need for any debate here ... as that motor is a direct-injected 2-stroke motor and the owner would best be advised to run a premium oil in it, which Yamalube is. It is darn good stuff!

If you want better oil, I have half a drum of 100% synthetic Bombardier XD-100 I can sell you for $25/gallon ... where it retails for almost twice that.

Now, if that motor was a lowly old school 2-stroke ... then you'd bet I'd be the first to run anything through her, though she would get a Seafoam decarb every 50-hours regardless.
 
We have used it in our 01 150 HPDI since sticking a piston years ago. No problems since. I get it ~$24/gal bulk or bottles, but would use any Quicksilver/BRP oil for DI engines. Just as important is fuel conditioner/decarb. Ringfree Plus does both!
 
windknotnc":1ag7djat said:
Can you run XD100 oil in a regular carbed 2 stroke without issues?
Sure, why not? But uhhhhhhhhhh ... who would?
 
If you are within your warranty period, sticking with Yamalube makes sense.
If you are outside of your warranty period, any quality equivalent oil might make more sense.
The choice is yours to make.

BTW - Yamalube is a "semi-synthetic" oil which means it is part synthetic, and part dino oil.
Nothing wrong with that.

My motor (a 1997 injected OX66) could probably run just about anything, but since I don't burn a lot of oil each season, I give her a little better.
I'm using Penzoil 100% synthetic in my motor. It burns clean, and I only get a little smoke when cold. Once warmed up, no smoke at all.
I buy my oil by the case at: http://oilstore.stores.yahoo.net/marine.html
Costs more than the semi-synthetic blend, but it's worth it to me.

Good oil is only half the equation to long life, however.
Without something in the fuel supply to deal with carbon build-up in a 2-stroke motor, it is still possible to stick a ring and wipe a cylinder.

Good oil, plus Ringfree (or StarTron, or QuickKleen) or other similar product mixed into your fuel, will keep your motor running happily for many years to come.
I use StaBil, StarTron, and Ringfree with every fill-up at the recommended maintenance dose of 1 oz product to every 10 gals of fuel.

YMMV
 
Last year I picked up yamalube for 27 if I bought it by the case. If I could fill up the old jugs I could get it for bulk. I haven't been able to find it in bulk in the area.
 
I now run Walmart Oil - $12/gal and Pennzoil -$15/gal. I used to run Yamaha oil, but at 2x the price, I didn't think it was worth it, especially since it smoked more than the other oils.
 
I saw a offshore race boat with wal-mart oil stickers onit 3 mercs so I called the 800# on the wal-mart oil jug. I think it's Specialty oil in Louisana was very in formative, call them it will make you think( Yahm-Merc-Suzuki-Tohatsu ect-ect-ect make outboards not refine oil). I used only Wal-Mart in my 2 smokes after that call.
 
WAJSKI":1btjsnfs said:
I saw a offshore race boat with wal-mart oil stickers onit 3 mercs so I called the 800# on the wal-mart oil jug. I think it's Specialty oil in Louisana was very in formative, call them it will make you think( Yahm-Merc-Suzuki-Tohatsu ect-ect-ect make outboards not refine oil). I used only Wal-Mart in my 2 smokes after that call.
I agree with you! I emailed the VP of Testing for the National Marine Manufacturers Association (NMMA) and here is how they responded.

* The TC-W3 rating is a Minimum Standard, meaning the oil or brand YOU buy could be better. Minimum standards means only 'That's good enough ...'

* The TC-W3 rating is a 'performance test', but it conducted on only a 15hp outboard! The demand, stress, loading, duty cycle, and carbonization of a 2-cylinder OB is HARDLY indicative of the demands that a V4 or V6 motor puts on an engine.

* Only 2 or 3 players really make ANY of these OB 'oils' and most of it is made by the same place, where the base oilis made to minimum TC-W3 specs and the balance "may have" additives (detergents, etc.) added so as to be specifically formulated to better specifications for that OEM branded oil.

* The TC-W3 test allows up to 15% piston scuffing and does NOT specify nor require any minimum amount of detergents to help break-down or eliminate carbon build up. Now for example, the old OMC specs for their branded oil required 0% piston scuffing and min 10% additive of detergents.

* The PowerTech 2-stroke oil sold by Wal*Mart is the same formulation as sold by one of the big 3 outboard companies under their same label.
 
John_Madison CT":v4f7fu6a said:
I now run Walmart Oil - $12/gal and Pennzoil -$15/gal. I used to run Yamaha oil, but at 2x the price, I didn't think it was worth it, especially since it smoked more than the other oils.

Same here, I used to run Yamalube but switched to Pennzoil Semi Synthetic oil for $18.00 up in L.I. I also run Ringfree always. Way less smoke with the Pennzoil.
 
A couple of years ago someone on The Hull Truth had a great post about this subject. He had twin outboards on is boat and he ran Yamalube in one motor and Penzoil semi synthetic in the other. After X number of hours he pulled the plugs and posted pictures of them. There was noticeably less carbon build up on the Penzoil plugs and he claimed the Penzoil motor smoked less. That’s one of the reasons I made the switch to Penzoil.

Other reasons I made the switch include price and believing that Penzoil (and other oil makers/refiners) has petroleum engineers smart enough to make a quality outboard oil. I just don’t believe the story that only Yamaha knows what secret additives are required for a Yamaha engine and that those requirements are far different from what other outboard brands require.

After making the switch I’ve noticed less smoke and less carbon on my plugs. Not to mention the Penzoil is easy to find and nearly half the price of Yamalube. The two auto parts stores closest to my house have Penzoil and I believe Wally World carries it as well.

I do use Ringfree every fill up. I’ve been using StaBil, but I don’t know if I will continue to when the bottle goes empty, as I have been using non-ethanol gas and warm weather is here.

If I were buying a boat and the owner told me he ran nothing but Walmart oil it would not be a concern for me at all, especially after reading Dale’s post.

Gary
 
GaryM":218d2zzx said:
If I were buying a boat and the owner told me he ran nothing but Walmart oil it would not be a concern for me at all, especially after reading Dale’s post.
Just DO NOT use it in any direct-injected 2-stroke OB.
 
markman03":3treewx7 said:
Dale are you saying not to use it in an HPDI motor?
I sure wouldn't ... unless I had spare $18K for a new motor ...

Wally oil is good for carb'd conventional 2-strokes, but does not appear to have any of the semi synthetic base or dispersants that DI motors require ... at least by my read of what oil Merc Optiomax and JohnnyRude Ram Injections require.

When in doubt, read the manual, see what it says. But again I'd caution, you cannot confuse old technology 2-S motors with newer DI ones.
 
Yamalube isn't that much more than Penzoil. Wally world has penzoil for 19.95 a gallon and I can get Yamalube for a few dollars more. I may switch to it but I am not in a hurry. Thanks for all of you input on this matter.
 
Back
Top