Leaning Post/Rocket Launcher/Live Well Thingie Installed NEW

[kalm-c]

Hey All....
Had the boat at the house for a bit today and what do ya know? I actually thought to take a couple of pics for you.....yes you!

So here ya go;

I got the leaning post/launcher built by Birdsall Marine who is local to me....they did a very nice job and I am glad I didn't live too long with out it as it has made fishing and hanging on the boat much more enjoyable.....it does kill some space, but as I read somewhere...perhaps here...."I have never seen someone fish from the center of the cockpit"
There is still good room for multiple anglers....it provides much needed storage as it flips open, I can lean against it while operating the second helm station, and I can stand on it for checking the trolling spread and seeking weed lines.
Also check out the boat name UnHooked as designed by our very own TomS!
And, while not a feature of this particular post, those of you who I know scrutinize the boatporn will ofcourse notice the wishbone outrigger holders from Lee's....they kick butt and make the old taco's I started with seem like childrens toys...nuff said.

Install for the live well and leaning post started out with the live well in my shop. I carefully positioned the leaning post on top of the live well to be centered side to side and as far forward as possible to allow adequate access to the live well opening. Once set, holes were marked. Leaning post was removed, and the holes drilled. I applied some 5200 to the feet of the leaning post and with the aid of two other sets of hands carefully guided the post into place over the holes, using 1 screw in each foot to help align it as it came down.
Then each corner of the live well was slid off the work bench to allow me to put washers and nuts on the thru-bolts. Bada Bing.

I forgot to mention that prior to all that I laid out with masking tape and pencil marks where the live well would live in the cockpit, and drilled holes in the deck for mounting, so that was already to go. I also figured out where the BIG holes in the deck would go for the water feed and light wires, as well as the drain elbow and tube, and after much measuring and thinking and smoking a couple of cigarettes and measuring a few more times while peering through the bilge, I busted out my trusty hole saw kit. The feed line and wires are run through a 1.5" hole cut with a hole saw, and the drain hole is a 5"hole also cut with a hole saw.
With the aid of a forklift and a couple of my guys, the whole sheebang was positioned over it's final resting place on saw horses while the plumbing connections were made. The wires and hoses were fished through the bilge, ontop of the fuel tank back the battery/bilge hatch.

So now I was ready to lower it into place, or so I thought....
I carefully applied 5200 to the underside of the livewell base perimeter, leaving small gaps in coverage around three screw holes so that I might locate it correctly, over the predrilled holes.
So here we go...my helpers lift the whole unit up and I remove the horses and they begin to slowly lower the unit as I pull excess hose and tubing and wiring through the bilge so that it doesn't get all kinked up under the well.....anyway.....we're just about there when it becomes apparent that with the hose connected to the drain elbow, there is just no way it can be lowered straight down to where it needs to go. AAARRRRGGGGG!
UP!UP!UP!
ok guys just hold her there for a minute.....
I grab a jig saw and cut an ugly u-shaped appendage on the aft side of my nice perfect 5"hole, while my guys are starting to sweat and groan holding this thing above my head...which now has a liberal spread of 5200 in various locations.....
ok bring her down slowly slowly.....perfect.
I secured it in place with four screws and filled the gaps in 5200 coverage by squeezing a good amount of it through the holes that were left blank for visibility, and then fastened off the rest of them....
At this point, all the hoses and wires are just coiled up in the bilge waiting for time,(hopefully this week), to drill and install the thru-hull water pick up and make the needed connections with the pump and all....while I am at it I will add a raw water wash down....just need to decide where that will live.

I apologize for the lack of install pictures, but when I get going, I get going and fall into the singleminded tunnelvision zone where cameras simply don't exist, and are therefore not even thought of...

BTW, for those of you who don't yet know, 5200 stays in the hair for a little over a week with daily washing and subconcious picking while at the computer.


Enjoy the rest of the summer!!!!

 

[mx beach guy]

Very nice Install you will enjoy.

 

[Megabyte]

Nice!
... and you added 4 more rods to your spread too!

 

[Outta Here]

"I have never seen someone fish from the center of the cockpit"

I'm gonna remember that. :lol:

 

[kalm-c]

Round II.

Starts with the thru-hull fitting with sea-cock, and where to locate it. Bilge access is extremely limited, and I needed to make sure the sea cock lever had adequate clearance to operate. Once located, I marked the approximate center by inserting a sharpie thru the open valve.

Next was to drill a pilot hole where I had marked the fitting. The bilge floor is angled here for the Vee shape, and attention was paid to drilling perpendicularly to the floor. I had a 3/16" bit handy, and so that's how big my pilot hole was. I followed up with a 1" spade bit....I know several of you just cringed, but I had one, it was sharp, and I have alot of experience putting holes in things so....I started from the outside drilling in, and sopped with approx. 3/16" to go, and hopped up and finished off the hole from the inside.

A 1" hole was just a bit too snug to pass the thru hull into, so I used some 80grit sand paper to open it up until I could get it in there. The thruhull fitting has sort of a basket over the bottom which prevents weird stuff from getting into the pump, and doubles as a wide flange. It had two small screw holes in which I marked and predrilled for two small screws. I applied some 5200 to the flange and inserted the screws. The two small screws serve to both hold the fitting in place until the in hull half is screwed on, and prevents the whole unit from spinning when you tighten down on it, making this a 1 person affair.

Hmm.Pictures are in reverse order, and I can't post more on this entry.
Stand By....

 

[kalm-c]

OK.
So....
next was the application of more 5200 on the inside of the bilge around the projecting section of the thru hull fitting. Screwed down the inside flange thingie(don't know what to call it), and applied a liberal amount of teflon tape to the threads in an effort to seal up any leakage that would get through the threads.

I then applied teflon tape to the male projection on the pump and connected pump to the sea cock above deck,and then connected sea cock to the thru-hull.

Next was some plumbing work. I held off on the water line between pump and bait well as I need to figure out how I will Tee off that line for a raw water wash down. But the drain needed attention. I didn't reall want to drill yet another hole out the gunwale, especially as low as this needed to go so that the tank woould drain when the center drain tube is removed(making sense?). And of course you can't just let it drain into the bilge, as the bilge pump would be running all day pumping out water. I decided to do a little exploatory surgery as I had a flip down back seat to install anyway.
At the transom, below the storage boxes is a filler piece that was caulked and screwed into place. I carefully ran a blade through the caulking and removed the screws to find it covers a pretty good sized opening in the cockpit floor through which run all the engine wiring, fuel lines and steering lines....there was plenty of room for my drain tube, and so a decision was made....I would have the live well drain onto the floor of the cock pit right next to the scupper, and call it good. Most of the water would drain when the day is done, and if I dont like how much gets left behind, i can always cut in a three way gizmo with a shut off that can be opened and the last of the live well water could drain into the bilge for overboard jettison.
The ghost marks of the trim peice helped me to locate where the drain fitting would be located, and measurements taken...an 1-1/2" hole saw made quick work of the hole, and 5200 was used on both sides during assembly. The drain hose was connected, old caulk cleaned off and the trim was re-installed.

 

[kalm-c]

So now that the whole boat was torn apart, I began to think about this flip down transom seat I have.....The rear "fish box/ storage box" is double walled and the outside wall is pretty flimsy so I tried to remove the outer shroud to the box, but no luck ....either it has hidden screws and/or the foam they injected between the inner and outer fishbox shrouds wouldn't let go...so the hell with it...if it starts to get weak I'll pull it of and back it up with some teak....in the mean time;
I measured for centers and laid the seat in place to mark the edges of the mounting brackets. The seat is designed to be easily removed from the brackets, so I then took it apart so I only had to deal with the mounting hardware and not the entire unit. I used the marks to locate the brackets again and marked the mounting screw locations and drilled through both box walls, into the fish box/storage box....I backed the nut up with some fender washers, and put the seat back in place for a test sit....legs need to be trimmed but otherwise it seemed solid. There is the female half of a snap on the bench which need the male side screwed to the transome so it can be snapped together to prevent the whole thing fronm flopping while underway....I have had bad experiences with snaps on boats before and will try to find another method of securing this thing while it's down....Suggestions welcome!

That's where I'm at with this so stay tuned....I got tomorrow morning slotted to try and finish some of this stuff of.

 

[grouperjim]

"I have never seen someone fish from the center of the cockpit"

I'm gonna remember that. :lol:

Thank you- My quote to Seneca Lake Dave in a previous post.

My next great CP quote- Never work with 5200 without a can of 3M 5200 remover nearby.

Great job on the installs. I am surprised you did not duplicate the standard Parker livewell drain set up out the back of the transom with the drain hose laying on top of the gas tank. As you know by now, if that scoop is facing forward, that seacock will charged while underway and not draining.


jim

 

[kalm-c]

I had no idea what the "standard set up" was. It didn't look like there as much room out the back with the bracket in the way and I didn't know how wise it was to have a hole that close to the water line, but now that you mention it it doesn't seem too bad....the way i rigged it, the drain outlet is at a higher elevation than the drain hole in the live well when the boat is sitting flat....not exactly ideal...

 

[grouperjim]

Here is a pic of the factory setup on a 2006 2320. The drain hose from the livewell is the white hose on the far right side of pic. Just gravity fed from livewell drain over the gas tank and then to a large thru hull in the transom. Water goes only one way---out.

Hope this helps.

jim

 

[kalm-c]

jim, is the lower hose from the baitwell pump for a wash down system, if so where is the hose hook up located?

 

[grouperjim]

The lower hose coming off the 90 feeds the Blaster raw water washdown pump that is mounted on the transom in the center of the bilge. If you don't have a raw water system, then the first port on the livewell pump will just remain plugged.

Coming off the Blaster raw water washdown pump is another hose (not shown) that connects to a nipple attached to the splash guard about where you put your drain. See pic.

Actually, I can see from your pics that you don't have a raw water pump. The pic with the splash guard removed shows a bare center on your transom.

jim

 

[grouperjim]

FYI:

The large thru hull on the transom for the livewell drain is the white nylon/hard plastic (?) variety. Did not like the idea at first, maybe thought about replacing with bronze, however it is maint free so I am going to leave it.


jim

 

[DaleH]

FYI:
The large thru hull on the transom for the livewell drain is the white nylon/hard plastic (?) variety.

Jim:

Could it be 'marlon'? It looks sorta like nylon but is allegedly as good as bronze ...

 

[kalm-c]

Jim, thanks for chiming in here! So the lower outlet on the livewell pump acts as an additional waterpick up that feeds a second pump for the wash down? That way two pumps can draw water from the same thru-hull?
I assume yes to both, and if so this changes everything!
My first Classic Parker Epiphany!!!!!
Thanks for the pictures!

 

[grouperjim]

You have it exactly right on both accounts. You may come out of this "smelling like a rose" since the hole for the "drain" in the splash guard you installed can be reworked to be the raw water fitting hose connection.

I think you have it figured out. If you need addl pics, my boat is out back and I would be more than happy to snap some for you.

Also, the rear fold down seat will serve you well in two areas. 1. Something to sit on. 2. It solves a design issue with the splash guard being sealed to the deck. Meaning that without the seat, spray/water enters the 1 inch gap between the bottom of the transom "fishbox" and the top of the splash guard. The water then pools with nowhere to go between the splash guard and the 2 inch lip that defines the bilge. Keep in mind that the "gap" does serve a purpose of forced air ventilation for the bats to off-gas and also to vent any fuel fumes (heavier than air) that may be lurking in the bilge. If the boat sits for a while between uses, I usually open the bilge hatch for awhile to let fresh air in/vent the area real well as a safety precaution.

As usual, Dale is right (except when it comes to Yamaha) the large thru hull out the transom is Marlon.

jim

 

[gw204]

VERY nice!

A good leaning post is probably one of the best additions your can make to a boat. I remeber when I had this beauty put in my old 204 Grady...

It was custom made by Don Battin of Pipe Dreams Marine to my specs. I was able to run rods from the center two holder as my WWB and WFB lines. The two outside rods went to the long riggers thus freeing up two gunwale rod holes for short rigger lines.

 

[kalm-c]

Wow Jim....I hope you didn't take apart your transom to take pics for me!
Thanks, I don't need any further pics.
I am hauling the boat over to Captiva Island next weekend though if you have any fishing advice for that area, I am all ears.

 

[grouperjim]

No problem. Those are pics from some other posts.

Sorry, don't get down to Captiva. I am always coming over to your coast to fish (Jupiter) seeing that you can get great fish within 5 miles of the boat ramp.

jim

 

[warthog5]

In the pix's where you installed the seacock.

You wasted your money for the way you installed it. You installed the scoop the way it should be done if you use a ballvalve.

When installing a seacock the nut is not used. The stem of the scoop is shortened, so that the seacock screws all the way down to touch the panel.

That panel could be the inside of the hull or a liner inside the hull. It's hard to tell from the pix's, but the angle of the 1/4in drill bit comming thru the hull makes me believe there is a liner inside as well as the slick gellcoat on that panel inside.

On my boat with a liner I used a large holesaw and removed a section of the liner. I then cut disc of glass the same size as the hole and laminated from the inside of the hull back to the surface of the liner. There is a angle change, as the hull has a steeper angle with it's deadrise.

These are not great pix's to show what I'm talking about, but they are the only ones I have.

If there is no liner I do it different.

A block gets glued to the inside of the hull. It is encapsulated in glass.
This is a pix before it was glassed. Notice the oversized holes that are backfilled with epoxy /Cabisol. Lag screws get screwed into those holes to mount the seacock.

Same thing installed in another boat.