Lewmar 700 install on Parker 2520

[ktomlinson]

I've wanted a windlass since I bought the boat. I looked at all of the windlass install threads on here and some on another boating forum, but still wasn't sure how I would end up installing mine. I decided to get the supplies and just go for it.

First, we removed the existing anchor locker so that we would have easy access to the flat parts under the deck. We used a grinder to smooth the underside of the deck so that the aluminum backing plate would lay flat and make full contact.

Before:

After :

The windlass manual said that deck needed to be at least 1" thick to take the stress of mounting a windlass. The Parker deck was 1 1/2" thick. First we cut two pieces of 3/4" plywood and cut them to fit the hole we just made. After we cut them we glued and clamped them.

Next we cut the piece that will be on top of the deck.

And then glued those two pieces together.

We used the template that came with the windlass and cut the mounting holes, 3" hole and power cable hole. After that my dad encapsulated the entire thing in fiberglass and used Parker gel coat to cover it. After the first coat with a brush we decided it would be better to use a roller. We switched and used rollers to finish the job. We put on 5 coats of gel, with light sanding between each coat and for the last coat we left the roller marks in it to look similar to the no skid.

We were originally going to use a piece of encapsulated plywood as the backing, but my dad came up with the idea to use a frame built out of aluminum angle.
I don't have pictures of us building the aluminum underside, but you can get a good idea from the picture.

The final result.

A few notes:

We used 500' of 8 plait rode with 30' of 1/4" chain. It soaked in fresh water for a week before loading it.

We installed a new anchor roller, one that hinges so the anchor drops when the switch is activated.

The chain doesn't touch the gel when it is pulled tight, but I am sure it will ding it along and along if I don't protect it now. I plan on installing a strip of rubber under the chain to protect my gel.

Make sure to secure the wiring so that it doesn't get hung on the rode. I was able to do it with zip ties by attaching it to a piece of aluminum Parker used to secure the cuddy wall.

We wired it to one of the starting batteries since the motor will always be on when its in use. We are using the circuit breaker that came with the unit to cut power when not in use.

We used a very strong bungee and a stainless steel bolt snap attached to a cleat as the anchor stop.


If anyone has any questions on something I didn't cover let me know.

 

[shawnee83]

Very nice work. You guys are good. If you get a chance, can you take a pic of the new roller you installed? Curious about the hinge. Congrats on the windless. I've been wanting one too but I know it will be several years out for me still as other items are on the list this winter. Enjoy!

 

[ktomlinson]

Thank you! I will try and take a picture of the roller tomorrow. I'll ask my wife to help me remember! I bought it off of Amazon. It is an Anchor Lift 90103 Self Launching. Here's a picture from Amazon:

 

[Megabyte]

Nice work and excellent documentation! 8)

 

[1801Steve]

Looks great. Thanks for all the photos.

 

[grouperjim]

Nice work. Dropping the line over the deepest part of the anchor locker will not only give you trouble free operation but will also allow you to hold more line. Now go get 500ft of 8 plait line w/special splice to chain and good swivel and you will be set. FWIW a short rubber snubber from the chain hooked to the windlass tensioner will keep the chain from slapping the gelcoat on the pulpit, and can help stop accidentally payout.

 

[ktomlinson]

Nice work. Dropping the line over the deepest part of the anchor locker will not only give you trouble free operation but will also allow you to hold more line. Now go get 500ft of 8 plait line w/special splice to chain and good swivel and you will be set. FWIW a short rubber snubber from the chain hooked to the windlass tensioner will keep the chain from slapping the gelcoat on the pulpit, and can help stop accidentally payout.

I took the boat out today for the first time after completing the windlass install. It worked, and I didn't have to pull anchor manually! I do have 500' of 8 plait line with 30' of 1/4" chain. I am using a Bruce anchor and attached it to the chain with a swivel. The line/chain is the size recommended for this windlass, but three times I had to have someone press down on the tensioner while I operated the windlass switch. One time was when the anchor gave a bit of resistance and spun on the line. The other two times were when the windlass tried to pull the part where the line is spliced to the chain. In fact, I expect that I will have to put pressure on the tensioner every time I get to that splice. I am going to read the manual in a while and see if there is an adjustment for that. Any ideas?

I am using a very strong bungee to keep the chain tight and to prevent accidental deployment, but did go ahead and lay a rectangular piece of rubber under the chain just in case.

 

[grouperjim]

The line/chain is the size recommended for this windlass, but three times I had to have someone press down on the tensioner while I operated the windlass switch. One time was when the anchor gave a bit of resistance and spun on the line. The other two times were when the windlass tried to pull the part where the line is spliced to the chain. In fact, I expect that I will have to put pressure on the tensioner every time I get to that splice.

New 8 plait can be a bit slippery when first placed in service. The line will eventually fray and stiffen some over the season and naturally become more grippy. The gypsy will always have a little slip and never be 1:1 when retrieving line but will improve as the line ages/becomes more grippy.

Engagement of the splice can be temperamental depending on how it is done. It can be a little quirky as to whether it will engage the gypsy depending on how the splice is oriented when it tries to engage as it is not perfectly round. If the splice won't pass consistently through the gypsy the options are to have someone forward to either manually put pressure on the tensioner or grab the chain behind the splice and pull aft to take some tension off the line which makes it easier for the splice to pass. My advice is that if the splice is less than 50/50 in successfully engaging the gypsy I would consider having the splice re-done. While similar, I have seen some slight variations in how different guys do the splice.

FWIW if your chain passes smoothly through the gypsy without binding/jumping then you are doing good. A lot of guys get chain that is slightly out of spec for the spacing in the gypsy. The rest will work itself out as the splice and the line mature.


Good luck.

 

[ktomlinson]

Grouperjim, thank you! I feel encouraged by what you said. The chain pulls through perfectly. I may have to redo the splice, it never went through without someone putting pressure on the tensioner.

 

[grouperjim]

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