mold

[jb4]

1992, 2520 with a mold problem in the cabin. I leave the 2 forward porthole windows open when the boat is at the dock. Dots of mold on the inside roof, and walls. how to fix? add another vent ? where?
standard vent? solar vent? located where in the cabin to be most effective? any other remedy besides adding a vent?
Thanks,
JB4

 

[dcunniff]

Are you on shore power? If so a fan...

If not, how often are you on the boat? Can you run a small fan with battery size?

Are those windows letting in rain?

Spray sections periodically with Lysol.

Solar fan can work but have but have to cut a big hole and not perfect on letting wind driven rain in.

 

[Andy]

1992, 2520 with a mold problem in the cabin. I leave the 2 forward porthole windows open when the boat is at the dock. Dots of mold on the inside roof, and walls. how to fix? add another vent ? where?
standard vent? solar vent? located where in the cabin to be most effective? any other remedy besides adding a vent?
Thanks,
JB4

There is only one solution to control mold/mildew, and that starts with understanding the root cause, and then what to do about it. To first understand controlling mold and mildew, think about the fire-triangle we were taught about in grade school. There is no need to remove all of three ingredients that fire needs to exist; you need to remove just one of the three (heat, oxygen, or fuel) and the fire will go out. It is the same principle when dealing with mold/mildew. You do not have to remove all five of the 'ingredients' needed for mold-growth, you need to remove/control just one of the five. The five are oxygen, conducive temperatures of 40-110 degrees F. (these temps vary from different sources; but are in this neighborhood), mold spores, mold food, and moisture. To save time, I won't (unless you ask) explain why there is only one of the five ingredient that we can 'reasonably' control, but I will explain about the 'controllable' one, and that one is 'moisture'. Mold/mildew CANNOT/WILL NOT grow when the relative humidity is 70% or lower, or when an item/surface is dry. Mold/mildew WILL grow, in fact HAS TO grow when the relative humidity is 70% or greater, and also, of course if any 'bulk-water' is present. (water, condensation, dew, dampness... call it what ever). So how do you control the 'moisture' ?. First, to be able to manage it, you must be able measure/monitor it; you need to verify and 'measure'. I do this all over my house, boats, shop, etc with simple inexpensive Accurite Humidistat/Thermometers. (about $10). (Actually, the best tool for accuracy is a sling-psychrometer, of which I have many, but they are too labor-intensive and time-consuming to use daily/constantly, and the Accurite (or other similar device give reading that are close enough for rock-and-roll).....
Now, for the hard part. How do you achieve humidities lower than 70% in a boat. Ventilation? Maybe sometimes, but only of you are ventilating the boat with air that is much lower than 70% relative humidity. How do I know if it is? Like I mentioned, to manage it, you must measure/monitor it..... How about Damp-Dry, or other desiccant dehumidifiers? No way is it possible to lower the relative humidity in a non-air-tight environment like a boat, with tubs of desiccants. Yes you will see them collect some water, but they WILL NOT be enough to actually lower the relative humidity in a damp environment like a boat. They might be some minor help in a closet, in a house that has a central HVAC system that already keeps the house lower than 70% (Hopefully around 50%), but not in a non-air-tight boat..... So how about an electric dehumidifier? Yes, if you get one strong enough to off-set the 'ventilation' air that's leaking in.... So how will I know if it's working.... You measure/monitor it, to manage it.

 

[atcbill]

I run a household dehumidifier 24/7 and have 2 small marine countertop fans running when the boat is not in use. I also use one of these every couple months for good measure:
UV Light Sanitizer
For what you have now I would use some RMR-86M Marine Stain Remover. Powerful stuff. Use well ventilated.

 

[Bodick93]

To add to Andy's comment, I incidentally helped the "bulk water" factor by closing my cabin drain. I did it to keep water out of my bilge (during the summer from swimming). I had never considered the water vapor coming in.
Also, the gunwale rod holder holes could easily be covered with a minimal amount of brainpower using something like a placemat (or whatever) cut to fit. The anchor locker/cabin interface is not vapor tight either (rain), but I installed an overboard drain in mine. All of my efforts are to protect the gas tank and wood. If they help cabin mold, that's even better.

 

[Andy]

To add to Andy's comment, I incidentally helped the "bulk water" factor by closing my cabin drain. I did it to keep water out of my bilge (during the summer from swimming). I had never considered the water vapor coming in.
Also, the gunwale rod holder holes could easily be covered with a minimal amount of brainpower using something like a placemat (or whatever) cut to fit. The anchor locker/cabin interface is not vapor tight either (rain), but I installed an overboard drain in mine. All of my efforts are to protect the gas tank and wood. If they help cabin mold, that's even better.

The lack of overboard drainage in Parkers and many other brands anchor rode lockers has been an issue I've complained about here before. It is not vapor-tight and it is certainly not bulk-water tight. Your installing an overboard drain is a helpful solution! Channeling water all the way from the bow (anchor-rode locker) to the stern, supplies the bilges with the prime ingredient for mold/mildew growth. I realize some of that 'channel' is enclosed pipe, but mold will also grow in that pipe/channel causing potential blockage, and then contributing to other bulk-water issues. (like wood rot)... It's helps to take as many steps as possible, to keep everything as dry as possible.

 

[Bodick93]

The lack of overboard drainage in Parkers and many other brands anchor rode lockers has been an issue I've complained about here before. It is not vapor-tight and it is certainly not bulk-water tight. Your installing an overboard drain is a helpful solution! Channeling water all the way from the bow (anchor-rode locker) to the stern, supplies the bilges with the prime ingredient for mold/mildew growth. I realize some of that 'channel' is enclosed pipe, but mold will also grow in that pipe/channel causing potential blockage, and then contributing to other bulk-water issues. (like wood rot)... It's helps to take as many steps as possible, to keep everything as dry as possible.

Man, if you haven't seen the story, my anchor locker drained like everyone else's (to the bilge) BUT THE DRAIN INSIDE THE HULL WAS PLUGGED. When water went in, it never came out due to foam expanding and clogging the PVC drain. It made me wonder if that isn't why water lines change on examples of boats over the years.
The recent 2300dv overboard drain thread comes to mind. Those fittings shouldn't leak a drop inside the hull. Parker put sealant on the hoses before the connections were made on my boat, and I would do it any other way.

It took a while, but on my 2320 I worked out the (safe) height of the anchor locker overboard hole over many trips and conditions. Magnets were strong enough to attach through the 1" glass near the bow keel. You can do it for less than 100 bucks, with by far the highest cost being the west systems epoxy, but you can use it for other projects. You don't need a scoop outside, the hole is plenty high. I went with a bronze Groco piece. Permanent, 1/2" id.

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/1029104-parker-2320-water-trapped-hull-fixed.html
This was before I joined of here. The end of that thread links to another thread of the through-hull install. I'm no expert, but it was fun and you all can avoid my mistakes.

 

[Andy]

Man, if you haven't seen the story, my anchor locker drained like everyone else's (to the bilge) BUT THE DRAIN INSIDE THE HULL WAS PLUGGED. When water went in, it never came out due to foam expanding and clogging the PVC drain. It made me wonder if that isn't why water lines change on examples of boats over the years.
The recent 2300dv overboard drain thread comes to mind. Those fittings shouldn't leak a drop inside the hull. Parker put sealant on the hoses before the connections were made on my boat, and I would do it any other way.

It took a while, but on my 2320 I worked out the (safe) height of the anchor locker overboard hole over many trips and conditions. Magnets were strong enough to attach through the 1" glass near the bow keel. You can do it for less than 100 bucks, with by far the highest cost being the west systems epoxy, but you can use it for other projects. You don't need a scoop outside, the hole is plenty high. I went with a bronze Groco piece. Permanent, 1/2" id.

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/1029104-parker-2320-water-trapped-hull-fixed.html
This was before I joined of here. The end of that thread links to another thread of the through-hull install. I'm no expert, but it was fun and you all can avoid my mistakes.

Yes, I now remember your post from THT that you also posted here. Very helpful! I just now re-read it. Our 2520 originally came from Garrett Marine; (you mentioned them in your post). I had no dealings with Garrett as we bought it from the original owner, when it was not yet 2 years old; he had to sell due to a divorce issue. The process became a year-long ordeal (a horrible situation!) but the guy we bought it from was a class-act and followed through on every thing he said he would. He also praised Garrett as a good dealer.

 

[pelagic2530]

Parker put sealant on the hoses before the connections were made on my boat, and I would do it any other way.

I'm not sure if this is a typo or not, but just to clarify something for the general knowledge bank: DO NOT, under any circumstances, put sealant on hose barbs before installing the hose. It is COMPLETELY UNNECESSARY and makes removal/replacement of the hose ten times harder, regardless of the sealant utilized. Hose barb fittings are designed to seal with a properly applied hose clamp, and nothing else. If your fittings are leaking at the hose barb, you've got another issue- degraded hose, wrong type of hose, wrong size of hose, loose or improperly positioned hose clamp, etc. None of those will be solved with sealant on the hose barb.

Just because it came that way from the manufacturer, doesn't mean it's right.

 

[Bodick93]

Just because it came that way from the manufacturer, doesn't mean it's right.

I guess Parker didn't get the memo.

Every hose connection in the transom of my 19, including bilge pump, wash down pump joint fishbox drain, livewell drain and raw water wash down have what appears to be a 3m product on there.


What a moldy mess. Winter.
I will take a leak FREE connection 99 out of 100 times vs ease of disassembly. I have a utility knife for stubborn hoses. One well-placed longitudinal cut and peel it off.

With spiral wound (external) hose, the clamps don't apply even pressure on the barbs, often resulting in leaks. I don't want 1 drip of water anywhere under the deck of the boat, especially some hose under the deck outside the drain envelope of the bilge.

 

[pelagic2530]

I guess Parker didn't get the memo.

Every hose connection in the transom of my 19, including bilge pump, wash down pump joint fishbox drain, livewell drain and raw water wash down have what appears to be a 3m product on there.
View attachment 38942
View attachment 38943
What a moldy mess. Winter.
I will take a leak FREE connection 99 out of 100 times vs ease of disassembly. I have a utility knife for stubborn hoses. One well-placed longitudinal cut and peel it off.

With spiral wound (external) hose, the clamps don't apply even pressure on the barbs, often resulting in leaks. I don't want 1 drip of water anywhere under the deck of the boat, especially some hose under the deck outside the drain envelope of the bilge.

You do you. If you're the only one working on your boat, I suppose it doesn't hurt anything. If I come across a boat with sealant on the hose connections, that's pretty much automatically another hour of labor cost and additional materials for replacing the hose. If you have to cut and replace your hose every time you need to swap a bilge pump, baitwell pump, or washdown pump, I feel like that defeats the purpose.

If you're using spiral wound hose with a smooth interior wall, as you should be, and the hose clamps are properly sized and positioned, you shouldn't be getting any leaks. If you are, you have a problem with your installation.

Parker does it from the factory so that no matter how quickly they slap together those connections, they won't leak. It's easier and quicker than taking the time to do it carefully and correctly, and they're not the ones that are going to have to work on the boat.

 

[Bodick93]

I couldn't agree more. People can use quick disconnects if they like. I will take leak free and permanent. If it costs me an extra hose or fitting every few years, so be it.
Sorry, back to the mold.