Must read for 2520 SL/XL owners. Bad Connection From Factory

[MaxOut]

I have been having some power issues lately and did some investigation and surprised what I found.

1st both of my factory installed Interstate batteries were 1 year old according to the date code when I purchase the boat. Had one drop out to 50CCA on a full charge and $110.00 to replace. Should have had 12 months warranty left and would have been prorated 40% cheaper.

2nd (SEE PICTURES) been having intermittent issues with fuel gage and bilge pump. While changing battery decided to inspect all connections and found a white Molex style connector with several 10gage wires and two 14 gage wires in it located in the starboard rear storage compartment. The connector was filled with green corrosion and when I cut the zip ties loose to get a closer look wires fell out. Apparently the top and bottom sides of the boat is wired prior to putting them together and is simply plugged in once joined. The problem is this connection is not marine grade at all and is (in my opinion) a bad design. In this connection was the following wires Brown, Brown/Green, Brown Yellow, Yellow & Pink. After tracing these wires I found that they go to the following- bilge pump, wash down pump, aerator pump, fuel sender and ?not sure.


Do yourself a favor and do away with this connection before you have issues at sea. I cut the connector out and found the corrosion had traveled 8" up the wire and barely had enough wire left to join them (got lucky). I used 3M brand crimps filled with glue and heat shrink. Once heated and sealed I coated them with plasti-coat as an extra measure. Tucked them down into the compartment and should never have to worry about them again. I suspect this connection may be present on all Parker boats due to the shoe box style assembly so Beware.

After fixing the connection I took a look at the bilge pump float switch the dealer had replaced and noticed the used butt splices with no sealant (big surprise) so I used the same procedure and connected and sealed them.

 

[grouperjim]

Thanks for posting.......i'll check it out.

 

[HM5]

I saw this connector too when I was working with the electrical issues on my 2003. It is not really identified on the wiring diagram, but it seems to be there on the boat, as MaxOut points out, to facilitate manufacturing.

My connector was OK and did not show the above pictured deterioration, so I filled the cavities with dielectric grease. I do want to find a 4 or 6 pin WeatherPac style connector similar to those used in the auto industry, and replace the Molex style item. Some may think it is overkill, but if it can happen, it will happen at the most inopportune time.

You are correct, MaxOut, that these style connectors should not be used in a marine environment, and I would hope that the good folks in Beaufort take notice, especially on the 3420! Owners should add checking this to their Spring commissioning list.

BTW The Yellow wire in that bundle is for a "Blower option". Must be a holdover from the days from I/O installations. I used it for another switched power source to the back of the boat.

 

[grouperjim]

i just checked mine.

for the 2320 it looks like there is a connector from the wiring harness that runs the length under the stbd gunwale cap......that connector plugs into a wiring harness that goes to the back of the switch panel behind the helm/dash. mine looked pretty good and since i don't have any electrical issues, i put some dielectric grease on the connections and otherwise left it alone.

 

[MaxOut]

For those using dielectric grease make sure you disconnect the connector and put it on the inside connections as well. Pull appart holding the connector not the wires. I chose to eliminate it to reduce the number of connections from 3 to 1 per wire and the fact that it was beyond repair.

 

[BoatGirl]

Parker Marine has been upgrading our wiring harnesses for the last few years utilizing many Deutsch waterproof connectors on accessories such as bilge pumps, washdown pumps, etc. These connectors facilitate our customers by simplifying the care and maintenance of their boat. We have implemented these upgrades along with many others as we strive to improve the quality in every aspect of our construction. The connectors we have used for many years have proven to be exceptionally reliable. the changes we have made were implemented as a result of the availability of improved products in the marine industry. Our desire and goal is to keep parker boats the strong, simple and seaworthy value that we are known for.

 

[seasonsfishing]

my wash down pump went down and it was at this very connection on my 2005 2520. thanks for posting...

 

[TheOtherLine]

Did BoatGirl graduate from Law School ? I loved that answer :lol:

 

[HM5]

Its called marketing

 

[MaxOut]

Could be a politician kind of avoided the actual issue with the current harness. My boat is a 2007 and is confirmed by this forum to be in there boats at least back to 2003. We all agree Parkers are good boats or we wouldn't own one but even a good boat builder can benefit from customer feedback. This style connector has no place in a marine environment and supplies power to a critical safety feature (bilge pump). In my opinion Parker should recall this, have it replaced or removed or at the vary least send out a memo to dealers and owners to be aware of it. Mine was tucked away out of sight but directly in the marine environment. A time bomb waiting to happen.


Quote- Robin

The connectors we have used for many years have proven to be exceptionally reliable. Mine it a 2007 and failed. Several others of a similar vintage here have as well. Maybe you have not been well informed.

Quote- Robin

Our desire and goal is to keep parker boats the strong, simple and seaworthy value that we are known for. I agree "keep it simple" do away with this connection or splice with marine grade splices. I have assembled these connectors before and take more time to assemble than a quality splice that would cost roughly the same money.

 

[MaxOut]

It's good that this connector was discovered and reported here. Seems like some of the retoric is a little inflammatory, maybe even political? Maybe my tone sounds a little harsh in an e-mail and that is totally not intended. "Political/Inflammatory" :? I have nothing to gain I have all ready fixed the connector and simply would like to here someone acknowledge a problem and own up to it instead of beating around the bush. At this point it is what it is and I wanted to share what I found with others. This connector is not in the wiring diagrams, was hard to find and could cause someone allot of grief if they were not aware of it trying to troubleshoot a problem with one of these circuits. Probably an oversight from Parker and simply pointing it out for others. :lol:

"recalls", "critical safety equipt", "time bomb" jeez :roll: I've had several bilge pumps fail...not due to Parker wiring, rather bad Rule switches. That's why I wired a second pump. Don't take this the wrong way but you have made my point exactly. Like many you are OK with substandard "Marine" equipment and are willing to just replace it and move on. It shouldn't be that way. In the automobile industry if you made a brake shoe that was substandard and prone to failure there would be a recall and the manufacturer would be responsible to correct it. In the marine industry people tend to accept substandard in safety equipment and it puzzles me. A certain level of quality should be expected from manufacturers. In respect to the Rule bilge pump switch we all know they are not worth a crap so why does Rule continue to sell poor quality safety devices and nobody cares. If you want to make a saftey device you should be held to an acceptable standard for the application intended. Looks like the cure is $5 of wire and half hour labor. Exactly my point again. If you know its a problem and inexpensive to fix why not just own up and fix it Parker. Do anyone spray wiring connections? I try to coat all I can get to w/Boeshield maybe twice a year. Never used it but I will check it out.
IMO, it's a lot easier to repair a poor connection than try to convert a low quality 2 piece hull to Parker style 3 piece set-up. :wink:

I did not intend to get totally off topic and apologize. I hope my initial post saves someone a headache and can operate there vessel more comfortably been aware of this issue. Thats the beauty of this forum and the internet.

 

[tara11]

I checked mine today, my boat is a 2006, it looks like it is brand new, mine is behind an access plate , maybe i will coat with one of those sprays that I use for other wiring, but mine looks great, so i am not going to mess with it yet

 

[Micheal J]

Thanks for the heads up. I have an 08 2120SC that I will looking around for this connection.
So whats the best way to fix it,just cut it out,match the colors on the wires ,and butt splice them back together?
I just replaced my Rule bait pump motor.Looks to me as if the dealer or whoever installed the darn thing tried to twist the wires to take some of the lenght out of them,but in doing so put such a strain on the wires that go into the pump stressed them out,and the pump would start,and stop for no reason.
I think this is still covered under warrenty,but it would cost me more in time and fuel to drive it all the way to San Diego to get it replaced :x
Oh well it's a boat,still love it.
MJ.

 

[MaxOut]

Thanks for the heads up. I have an 08 2120SC that I will looking around for this connection.
So whats the best way to fix it,just cut it out,match the colors on the wires ,and butt splice them back together?
I just replaced my Rule bait pump motor.Looks to me as if the dealer or whoever installed the darn thing tried to twist the wires to take some of the lenght out of them,but in doing so put such a strain on the wires that go into the pump stressed them out,and the pump would start,and stop for no reason.
I think this is still covered under warrenty,but it would cost me more in time and fuel to drive it all the way to San Diego to get it replaced :x
Oh well it's a boat,still love it.
MJ.

I felt most comfortable cutting mine out and splicing with marine splices and as an extra measure sealed with plasticoat and heat shrink. If it looks good I would fill with electro grease and keep an eye on it. Maybe use the Bioshield mentioned above. Mine was to far gone to save.

 

[Micheal J]

I just replaced my Rule bait pump motor.Looks to me as if the dealer or whoever installed the darn thing tried to twist the wires to take some of the lenght out of them,but in doing so put such a strain on the wires that go into the pump stressed them out,and the pump would start,and stop for no reason.
MJ.

Do you have one of those California Style bait tanks? If so, wouldn't the livewell pump been dealer supplied?

I would get rid of the "plug" and hard wire. Too easy to fix. It's gotta fail sometime.

Yep,I think it's 32 gals.Made by Pacific Edge.Nice tank the bait stays fresh all day,and the 500gph pump seems to be the ticket,not too fast,not to slow.
Yeah ,I think it's covered by the dealer ,but like I said it was eaiser for me just to replace it myself.Sundace out of San Diego seems to have it's problems.I had a VERY frustrating time taking delivery of my boat,not the salesmans fault,it was the NUMBERS guys fault.The one shining light they have there is a guy named Jole.This guy knows his stuff,but he's spread too thin.
Any hoo any ideas on where this plug might be located on my boat,I agree w/ you on just gettin it outta there before problems happen.
So just whack it out,and butt splice em back together,and shrinkwrap em.
Thanks
MJ.

 

[Micheal J]

I just replaced my Rule bait pump motor.Looks to me as if the dealer or whoever installed the darn thing tried to twist the wires to take some of the lenght out of them,but in doing so put such a strain on the wires that go into the pump stressed them out,and the pump would start,and stop for no reason.
MJ.

Do you have one of those California Style bait tanks? If so, wouldn't the livewell pump been dealer supplied?

I would get rid of the "plug" and hard wire. Too easy to fix. It's gotta fail sometime.

Yep,I think it's 32 gals.Made by Pacific Edge.Nice tank the bait stays fresh all day,and the 500gph pump seems to be the ticket,not too fast,not to slow.
Yeah ,I think it's covered by the dealer ,but like I said it was eaiser for me just to replace it myself.Sundace out of San Diego seems to have it's problems.I had a VERY frustrating time taking delivery of my boat,not the salesmans fault,it was the NUMBERS guys fault.The one shining light they have there is a guy named Jole.This guy knows his stuff,but he's spread too thin.
Any hoo any ideas on where this plug might be located on my boat,I agree w/ you on just gettin it outta there before problems happen.
So just whack it out,and butt splice em back together,and shrinkwrap em.
Thanks
MJ.

 

[Brian S]

Thanks for the heads up on this. I have been watching this connector for quite some time. I have even been spraying it with anti corrosive lubricant for electrical wires. Two weeks ago my wash down stopped working. I looked at this connector and saw some corrosion built up. Clipped all the wires and used heat shrink connectors with marine goop to seal them up. This is an easy repair, one that should probably be done before the issues occur. Pump works again and I'm back in business.