My '95 2530

[Megabyte]

Then I spent 6hrs yesterday redoing the wiring to my liking. Fairly typical and I'm picky as Hell.

I was wondering about that.

 

[warthog5]

Yea....They had the power picked up for the gauges and stuff by jumping onto the POS & Ground at the fuse panel. Now that sounds fine......BUT that gets power from the House battery.

I discovered this after turning on the Start battery and could not trim the motor up.

The Hot that was jumpered to the fuse panel had a 30amp fuse + a aditional 3oamp fuse in the holder as a spare.

I cut that out. Ran 2 - 10ga wires from the BEP switch on the transom and hooked them to the POS & NEG at the console. Then I added that fuse holder to the POS 10ga wire and hooked it to the Start switch. Now the motor is all controlled by the Start battery as it should be.

I shortened the Factory battery cables so they fit correctly and not run all over the place with the excess.


Now I need raise the motor. It's in the 3rd hole and needs to go to the 5th hole. It's running 2 1/2in Low right now.

The prop is right with it's numbers,[Suzzy 3 X 16 X 17] Motor turned 5800 but I need one that will give Stern lift. Gonna talk to Ken @ PropGods.

 

[warthog5]

Folks wanted to see more pix's of the motor.

1st pix if you look close, you can see the Red line. That is where it runs in the water. It's to hight.

Mounted in the 3rd hole. Suzuki wants 6 bolts holding the motor on. They even supply special washer plates.

New UFlex Sterring Ram. I'm tired of Teleflex leaking. This is a HD unit.

The motor is covered in plastic covers.

 

[warthog5]

Back working on another project at the same time. I have the backing plates made in Stainless, but couldn't find someone to buff them. So I painted them with Awlgrip at the same time I painted the bracket.

The core is gone around these points.

Opened up and blown out. I trashed the boat with all the crap that flew out of the holes.

Taped off and backfilled with Epoxy/Cabisol.

Syringe to inject it.

Heat lamps to make it set faster.

 

[warthog5]

Fed Ex showed up with a crate.

It's the new Port side [Opening] windshield.

 

[Bryan 2530]

So what's the plan to get the motor higher?

Raise the bracket??

 

[warthog5]

So what's the plan to get the motor higher?

Raise the bracket??

Nope....That would be a last resort. When you do that you raise the flotation tub. This would let the boat sit lower in the water at rest.

I have some ideas, but I'm waiting on a prop. Bravo 4 blade from PropGods. Ken said the Bravo will give max stern lift. Even more so than a REV 4.


In the mean time I made this block off plate this afternoon. That gets rid of the 2 Stoke oil fill port.

 

[Megabyte]

Nice work.
Your rocket launcher project looks like where I was a couple of years ago. 8)

 

[grouperjim]

I like the looks of that UFLEX.

 

[Megabyte]

I like the looks of that UFLEX.

Me too.
Very sturdy looking.

 

[warthog5]

Teleflex actually makes one to compete with this.

This one is Uflex model UC128-SVS-2

It has a bigger ram, Bigger Piston's, You can even see the Blue wiper seals that show.

It's about $600 and is designed for 350Hp.

 

[grouperjim]

Now I need raise the motor. It's in the 3rd hole and needs to go to the 5th hole. It's running 2 1/2in Low right now.

Don't be in a hurry to raise the motor. For fishing boats I personally don't ascribe to the notion of raising the engine to run the top of the anti-vent plate so it is at or breaks the surface of the water. Especially with the engine set back on a bracket which introduces a degree of variability of water flow in different sea states from the stern to the motor foot. In certain following seas you'll ventilate the prop which is a PIA. I have run my motor in every hole and it has ended up back down in the water.

IMO running the A/V plate right at the surface reduces drag and has its advantages for go fast fishing hulls and racing hulls, but in a regular 25-30mph fishing boat it's about control. The A/V plate also functions as a control surface. It is the only control surface that enables you to raise the bow when you trim up. Tabs can only push the bow down, A/V plate pushes it up. Running the top of the A/V plate right at the surface takes the plate out of the water when you trim up taking it out of play as a control surface.

FWIW hulls without a bracket setback where the motor foot is closer to the hull are less affected by sea state and ventilation for obvious reasons when the A/V plate is run at the surface.

I drive a fishing boat and could really not careless about that extra 1-2 MPH of top end gained when running the A/V plate at the surface due to less drag nor am I concern about the very small amount of improved fuel efficiency gained when running in smooth water. I run in rough water and need control of my bow in a following sea and any ventilation would negate any gains in fuel efficiency.

Not a popular view but it works for me. YMMV 8)

 

[DaleH]

While I certainly respect that opinion and experience I would say mine is quite different, but I recognize that I am using a premium large 16" diameter 4-bladed prop. I am quite sure that is what allows my prop to stay hooked up, even in a following sea.

I would also opine that if I were using an OEM prop then, as you point out, I definitely would have to drop the OB a hole or two ...

That's the things with boats, motors, and props ... there's no "one size fits all" guidance.

 

[warthog5]

I have some ideas, but I'm waiting on a prop. Bravo 4 blade from PropGods. Ken said the Bravo will give max stern lift. Even more so than a REV 4.

I just got off the phone with Ken again. With the Suzuki 3 X 16 X 17 it has a slip ratio of 9% which is Damn good. But this scared him and made him change his suggestion of the Bravo due to the pitch. 4 X 15 1/4 X 21


So it has now been decided to get the same prop that Dale has. Powertech LFS4 X 16 X 17. He said it will have more lift than the Rev 4.

I drive a fishing boat and could really not careless about that extra 1-2 MPH of top end gained when running the A/V plate at the surface due to less drag nor am I concern about the very small amount of improved fuel efficiency gained when running in smooth water. I run in rough water and need control of my bow in a following sea and any ventilation would negate any gains in fuel efficiency.

I too don't care so much about the Top end. You can't run it there anyway.....Not with any kind of sea state. It's all about fully loaded.... 25 to 30MPH and squeezing the fuel millage out of it for me. I don't want a boat to pound and beat the crap out of everything. Just a nice ride with good millage.


Now.....As to raising the motor/motors. I'll relate the way it happened on my Mako.

Twin DF-140 Suzzy's. 3 X 14 X 18 props. But were actually 1 to 1 1/2in of pitch less. I had them changed to 18 1/2pitch.
Then I raised the motors where they needed to be. That caused the motors to hit 6200. Right on the top limit. Fuel millage improved.

Then I went to 3 X 14 X 20 Suzzy's and had them dialed in before they went on the motors. They again were 1 to 1 1/2pich less than marked.

With raising the motors and the prop change it was good for .8MPG So I achieved 2.8MPG at it's very best. I was hunting 3.0MPG with that boat, but never achieved it. This one I have already.

 

[grouperjim]

I don't have any experience propping anything other than Yami f250 on a 2520 MV and two 23DV on brackets. Zukes may be altogether different animals for all I know.

On the 2520 MV running a rev4/17 it came mounted all the way down. It ran fine in any kind of sea state often with the AP on which can be a little unnerving when it's rough but not my boat. Buddy wanted to raise it hole next time she was hauled out for maintenance, so up a hole she went. Now she barks a little and ventilates some in a following sea. Next time she is hauled it's going back down.

Whatever one believes on where the A/V plate needs to ride, the best advice is to start low and bring it up a hole and run it in a variety of conditions. Keep raising it until she does something you don't like such as a little bark or ventilate, or maybe a control issue...........then drop her back down one hole........bingo.

 

[warthog5]

I don't totally disagree with you Jim, but when you raise a motor, that usually frees up the RPM's and in some cases so much that you may need a prop change.

But that's a problem if you have just laid down $500 -$600 just a little while ago for the one you have now.

It's nothing to me to raise or lower a motor. I can do it in 45mins at the house.

A lot of guys seem to have a big problem with it. No trailer or the lift man wants to screw ya.

Lot's of them can be raised with a floor jack. This new Suzzy you can't. You have to have a motor that has slots on the bottom holes.

 

[grouperjim]

Yeah, those prop trees can get mighty expensive. Fortunately Ken only lives 30 min from my house and he takes them back if I need to change it. :mrgreen:

 

[warthog5]

More work today. New Port window installed and Rocket launcher reinstalled with Stainless backing plates. They are painted with Awlgrip Egg Shell White. Damn good match if you ask me.

 

[Megabyte]

Very nice.

How difficult was it to remove the window?
I'm thinking of sending all of mine back to Wynne and having them rebuilt.

 

[warthog5]

Oh....It's a pain. Takes 2 people. Heat Gun and razor knife. One on the inside pushing out.