pelagic2530":o3nq6zeb said:
1) is there any solvent that can remove silicone? i scraped out as much as i can but im afraid what is left will inhibit reglassing the holes. 2) How in the he!! do i fix this?? i dont have anything to make a plug out of, and i do want to patch up the stringer while im at it. how do i fix the hole in the gunnel?
As per GE's website for silicones (see below) there ain't nuttin
that'll disolve silicone products per se, so 'mechanical' removal is your best bet. I like the idea to 'cut it bigger' to remove the silicone.
How do I remove silicone products?
It is VERY difficult to remove silicone from a surface. However, if you must remove it, follow the suggestions below. To remove silicone sealant from surfaces, first remove as much as possible by cutting/peeling/scraping excess sealant from surface.
For ceramic tile, marble, Formica>Ò>, fiberglass, etc., use 100% mineral spirits (turpentine) and a non-abrasive scouring pad. Test solvent on a hidden area of the surface to ensure that discoloration will not occur. If discoloration does occur, contact the manufacturer of the surface for further assistance.
For glass surfaces, use a razor blade to remove as much as possible, then apply mineral spirits. Remove excess as much as possible, then apply mineral spirits. Remove excess with a towel or other suitable cleaning utensil that will not mar the surface (such as a non-abrasive pad).
NOTE: For surfaces such as hard plastics or painted surfaces, including cars, use rubbing alcohol and a soft cloth. Do not use mineral spirits. Only use these solvents in a well-ventilated area and follow all safety precautions and instructions listed on the product label. Material Safety Data Sheets for GE Sealants & Adhesives products are available upon request. Similar information for solvents and other chemicals you choose to use with GE products should be obtained from your suppliers. When solvents are used, proper safety precautions must be observed.
On Rough, Porous Surfaces>
To remove sealant from a porous/rough surface, (concrete, brick, wallpaper) remove as much of the sealant as possible (same as smooth surface). If necessary, use a wire brush in conjunction with mineral spirits.
NOTE: We do not recommend use of a wire brush to remove sealant from wood surfaces, as doing so could damage the wood. Also, mineral spirits should not be used if the wood has any type of finish on it. Test solvent on a hidden area before applying.
Mineral spirits are flammable and should be used away from sparks, flames and other sources of ignition. Only use these solvents in a well-ventilated area and follow all safety precautions and instructions listed on the product label. Material Safety Data Sheets for GE Sealants & Adhesives products are available upon request. Similar information for solvents and other chemicals you choose to use with GE products should be obtained from your suppliers. When solvents are used, proper safety precautions must be observed.
NOTE: There is nothing that will dissolve silicone. NOTE: If reapplying silicone to the area, remove the old sealant. Then clean the area with a disinfectant if mold or mildew is present, apply rubbing alcohol. Let the area dry before re-applying silicone.<> Do not use soap to clean surfaces to be sealed because silicone will not adhere to surfaces covered with any soap scum.
2) How in the he!! do i fix this?? i dont have anything to make a plug out of, and i do want to patch up the stringer while im at it. how do i fix the hole in the gunnel?
Well, you'll need a plug. If you cut open the existing hole with a hole saw, use that to cut a new plug
or two. I have cut many cores out of my boat and I have a piece of Parker decking, glassed 1-side, resin-coated on the other, about 4" by 8" or more I could give you. You could cut cores out of that to fill the hole.
Here's what I'd do ...
1) Cut hole a tad bigger to remove all traces of silicone
2) Mask/tape off all areas around and UNDER the hole, as you'll be using epoxy to weep into the exposed core
3) Buy Git-Rot or West Marine's 2-part THIN epoxy mix and buy $16 sample kit from Raka epoxy, call Larry @
www.raka.com
4) HEAT up area until warm using a hari dryer ... WARM, not hot. Also do this after 2pm when the day's temps have maxed and are starting to drop (eliminates air bubbles)
5) Using a small paint brush, paint, paint, and paint it into the wood core until it takes no more ... keep doing this until the epoxy kicks and starts to tack up, even it it take an hour or so ... recheck like every 10-15 minutes and add epoxy to allow as much as you can to saturate into the wood
6) Cut many cores out of marine ply wood (prefered) and staturate with thin WM epoxy
7) Once this kicks (tacky, but not cured) liberally coat out the cores with Raka 2-part epoxy (easy 2-to-1 mix ratio, no pumps needed
!) and press into the hole
8) Use new brush again and wipe all exposed edges with epoxy, ensuring it is full (no air gaps)
9) Add another core or block piece, covered with epoxy
10) Repeat until ~1/4" below surface of washboard
Let cure.
Now you will need to ROUGHEN up the epoxied surface so a gelcoat compatible resin or filler will 'stick' to the epoxied surface. I'd even take a dremel and cut a GROOVE around the top part (of topmost core), at the extreme bottom edge of the hole that is there. This is so when you fill this hole with filler it GRABS into this groove so it is estentially locked into place.
Then cover with a teak or starboard step plate or gelcoat the surface. Dave 'Portchunker' and myself, amongst others, have added many tips and photos for gelcoating, search on terms like DIY and gelcoat or gelcoat and A to Z ...
Hopefully you get the idea. Now, if it were my boat, from underneatch I would also add a piece of material (epoxied wood, 1/4" aluminum, or even starboard) onto each side of the washboard 'stringer' to stiffen it in that section so if a heavy person steps in the area, the weight doesn't crack the area.
Whew ... any questions ... :?: ?
