no reverse and no nuetral on ox66

[Bob M]

Took a short ride in my 2310 w/ 1999 yam 225 ox66 Saturday. When I stopped I tried to put it in reverse and the boat went forward instead. Also does not shift into nuetral. Took the binnacle control off and everything apears to work fine. Looked at cables at engine and they appear to be moving properly and the bracket they are attached to appears to move left, center and right as I shift. Unfortunately the prop only spins forward even with control in nuetral position. Has anyone encountered this or do you have any advice. Thanks

 

[Burtona]

My bet would be the shifter rod to the lower unit came unconnected. Should be an easy fix.

 

[Bob M]

Thanks, for the advice. I will have to pull the lower unit and see what happened. hopefully the shift shaft is ok.

 

[Burtona]

It's been a while since I removed a lower unit but I think the shaft is connected with a screw you remove before dropping the lower unit. You may just have to replace the screw without removing the lower unit.

 

[Burtona]

Any solutiuon?

 

[Harpoon]

The shift rod attaches with a spline to the lower unit.

I don't know if it is possible that the shift rod has broken. You may have a problem inside. Drain your oil and you will get an idea.

Plenty of used parts around.

 

[Bob M]

Had the lower unit pulled. Looks like bad news. The part that attached the shift shaft to the clutch dog came loose and ended up in the gears so teeth are missing on both forward and reverse. Mechanic said had water intrusion as well from prop seal where I had picked up some fishing line. Says I either need a rebuilt lower unit or he can rebuild with new gears. looks like minimum cost would be about $1400. Probably have around 1800 hours on the motor. It may make more sense to repower.What sdo you think?

 

[DaleH]

A friend bought a complete Yam 250 L/U for $1200 this year from a dealer where the owner bought a 4-S after the powerhead blew. Aftermarket L/Us are alleged to be even cheaper.

Whereas a '99 vintage power should give one another 10+ good years ... the answer is ... how much do YOU want to spend?

 

[Bob M]

Thanks for the suggestion Dale. I am looking for a used lower unit. I am told I can buy a reconditioned one with 1 year warranty for about $2600. How many hours should an outboard be good for. I was thinking of there being some benefits to the newer technology but I hate to spend close to $20K if I don't have to. I would probably need to plan to keep my boat another several years for this to make sense. Other than a case of "5 foot itis" (e.g., bigger boat & twin outboards), which would cost a lot more upfront and in fuel, I am pretty pleased with the 2310.

 

[DaleH]

Thanks for the suggestion Dale. I am looking for a used lower unit. I am told I can buy a reconditioned one with 1 year warranty for about $2600.

That's TOO much! On your other post about ideal prop for your boat, I listed a site that will sell you a refurb LU for < $1000 that YOU can bolt up yourself!

How many hours should an outboard be good for.

Hours? Depends on care and if propped right, but I'd guess in excess of 3000. They say the national average is 50-60 hours per season. I run anywhere from 100 to 200 or more, depending highly on whether or not I chase tuna offshore.

That said, I once got 24-years from an OMC V4 130hp that was still running when sold. My brother's twin Yamaha 150hp 2-strokes are 1987 models and we think one finally just ate a ring or cylinder.

I myself would be terribly disappointed if I ever got < 20-years use from a V6 OB. I have seen V4s go for MUCH longer and we have a 1966 Evinrude 6hp on my dock that still runs and starts on the 1st pull. And it is a 43-year old motor! Points ignition too, no CDI ignition! Heck, it's almost as old as me!

I was thinking of there being some benefits to the newer technology but I hate to spend close to $20K if I don't have to.

Look at this way ... assuming you run 1000 miles per year and might get up to a 40% increase in fuel efficiency (that may NOT ever materialize ...) at a cost of even $4/gallon (assuming 1.8 mpg on current motor and 2.5mpg on 4-stroke) equates to only a $622 more in fuel costs per year, with your dirty 2-stroke.

... and you'd want to spend $20K now to potentially save < $650/year when you have a motor < 10-years old? Believe me, I sure want to put a Suzuki 250hp 4-stroke on the stern, but OMG ... not until my motor dies!

That said ... if you have the disposable $$ ... then go for it!

 

[Harpoon]

They have some good deals. But I would go on THT and put an add for WTB lower unit. THT is good for that stuff.

 

[Bob M]

Thanks for the advice. I apologize for having posts on two different forums didn't plan it that way just inexperience I guess. That SEI website looks like a good deal, $795 with 3 year warranty. The $2600 was from iboats.net.
Obviously the repower doesn't make economic sense, only worthwhile from an aesthetic point of view and maybe maintenance convenience in the future.

Dale do you have an idea what the value of the 0x66 motor with or without the lower unit might be.

 

[DaleH]

... do you have an idea what the value of the 0x66 motor with or without the lower unit might be.

If a complete motor, I'd bet dealers around here would try to sell for at least $5K.

 

[Bob M]

The blue book low retail is $3900 so I bet your dealer asking price is probably close.

I could probably sell it a good discount to that price.

Dale you mentioned your eventual desire for a Suzuki 250 4 stroke. What in your opinion makes that motor more desirable than others such as Yamaha. I hear they have more torque but are a bit louder than Yamaha. they seem to be a little less expensive here in Georgia.

 

[DaleH]

What in your opinion makes that motor more desirable than others such as Yamaha. I hear they have more torque but are a bit louder than Yamaha.

None I know of have ever had a fuel pump failure and zero VST or similar filter issues. I'll sacrifice a tad more "Grrrrowl" for reliability and power.

Also, and more importantly, I want a 250hp and the Yam F250 doesn't produce 250hp WITHOUT high octane fuel.

 

[Harpoon]

I have a Zuke on the 25 DV and my buddy behind me with the Mod V doesn't. The Zuke our performs the yammie in every way.

It has a little more displacement and a bigger gear reduction.

Nothing wrong with a yammie though.

 

[Bob M]

Harpoon, I have heard good things about Suzuki, low weight, better torque, and good fuel efficiency. One thing I am curious about is noise level at cruise speeds. I get complaints from the admiral about how loud my ox66 is. Her approval would be important to have if I am going to put money into a repower. I know the Suzukis are very quiet at idle but some tests seem to show them being as loud as my ox66 when running at cruise speeds. What is your experience with the noise level. I know they have a different sound than the 2 strokes.

 

[DaleH]

No comparison between old 2-stroke and new 4-stroke, regardless of brand!

 

[Harpoon]

When you are running at 4200 rps there is some noise. I would say it is a different tone or frequency than my old 2 stoke. But, yea you hear it especially because mine is on the notched transom.

You have the 23 with 8' beam so the yammie should suit you fine. I got the zuke because it was 5,000.00 cheaper and I wanted the extra torque.

Regardless of the make, when you go 4 stroke I don't think you will ever look back.

 

[UnWired]

Here ya go... Cheap as well.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-O ... 812wt_1165