Parker 2120 baitwell removal help??

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JusSo

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Looking for a little help on how to go about sealing the holes left by the ondeck baitwell
i have 2 rectangle cutouts i want to glass in and the thru hull drain.
maybe warthog5 could point me in the right direction
I have a little know how of working with epoxy but nothing exciting
Attached are some pictures of the projectB5670125-C4B8-49DF-AA3B-786F0C642247.jpegE0DB1F87-5725-425F-891B-2C5049B86F39.jpegB81C2361-F192-40B8-8399-646AE430B57F.jpeg2CBAF143-806E-452F-9959-54779B8CEE25.jpegD6167958-806E-4F24-A43E-12AAF77169DD.jpegE36EFEFD-286C-4616-91E3-8C99F9BEBAE2.jpeg4215944D-1915-4DA5-8DCC-57969B776C62.jpeg
 
Man, that's a big one...

With limited access to the underside, you might have a tricky project ahead of you.

My gut feeling would be bevel back the existing edges of the hole, and create a plug of the correct dimensions with a matching bevel, of slightly less thickness so that there's a slight depression in the deck when installed, i.e. the plug will sit even with the original plywood core with a depression at least equal to the thickness of the glass layer on top of the plywood. Grind down the deck around the beveled surface to provide a surface for fiberglass cloth to adhere, 12:1 ratio to the height of the depression to be filled with glass. Wrap the plug in fiberglass and epoxy resin, and wet out the plywood core with epoxy. Glue it into the deck with thickened resin while the epoxy on the core is still tacky. Then lay a few layers of fiberglass mat over the whole surface. Sand down, fair with thickened epoxy or other fairing compound, and re-gelcoat.

Others will probably have a better answer, but that's how I'd approach it. Still a toss-up on how well it will hold up to any flex in the deck with just one side of the plug glassed in.

If you're planning to re-SeaDek the cockpit or put a section over the livewell hole, you may be able to get away with less attention to the final gelcoat finish.

The thru-hull drain, you could do something similar. Grind down both sides 12:1 ratio of the thickness of the outer layer of fiberglass (NOT the transom thickness), cut a dowel section to fit the hole, coat the dowel and exposed plywood core with epoxy, glue it in with thickened epoxy, few layers of glass on each side, sand, fair, and gelcoat.

At any rate, prepare to get dusty and itchy during this one.
 
Thanks for the advice. I havent tackled it yet as im still in the planning stages. If i use epoxy then ill have to paint the finish not gel coat right?
 
Seems like alot of work? Why not make a cardboard mold and then fill gap with marine ply- perhaps resin sealed- and seal into defect- then continue your faux teak flooring over it.
 
Thanks for the advice. I havent tackled it yet as im still in the planning stages. If i use epoxy then ill have to paint the finish not gel coat right?
Gelcoat will adhere to epoxy, just not as well as poly. Make sure you rough sand the epoxy before applying the gelcoat to ensure a mechanical surface for it to bond to.
 
Seems like alot of work? Why not make a cardboard mold and then fill gap with marine ply- perhaps resin sealed- and seal into defect- then continue your faux teak flooring over it.
I'd think that this method would lack the strength needed to support the possible point loading on the deck. Definitely want to re-lay glass over the repair. Both sides would be preferable, but there's no access from the underside. The bevel I discussed makes it so that the patch can't get pushed through the deck; the glass on top keeps it from popping loose under strain from the boat pounding, flexing, etc.

At any rate, you would want to AT LEAST coat the plug in epoxy, if not wrap in glass.
 
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