Parker 23 dv

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Just bought A 23 dv a few months ago - really like it but it porpuses in a chop

Has anyone figured out a fix for that - tabs down help but not enough - anyone tried a 4 blade prop - bigger tabs ??
 
My 23 DVCC will porpoise under some conditions, but usually a combination of engine trim and trim tabs will flatten out the ride. I find that sometimes the solution is to raise the bow a bit rather than lower the bow. Speed can also be a factor, and slowing or speeding up slightly will flatten out the ride.

Giving more details about the boat and the sea conditions might help people be able to make more suggestions.
 
Get a Permatrim from SIM Yamaha. It will solve all of your 23 DV behavior problems. A 4-blade prop such as a Rev-4 will help but there are some downsides to this solution (mostly in compromises in your fuel economy .... a 4 blade prop generally results in a little more fuel usage). A Permatrim seems to actually increase fuel economy on the Parker. And if you can couple a Permatrim with a high quality prop such as the Enertia ECO or a Mirage, Mirage Plus then you'll see the best benefits.
 
It’s a 23dvcc Yamaha 250 4 stroke - no jack plate - one hole left - 3 blade ss -
I live in the Keys so most of my fishing is offshore

Any chop or a short swell it’s hard to stop propusing - tabs down helps - motor is trimmed down - slow down a little gets hung in the wave - more throttle it stops but too fast for the sea conditions - just can’t hit the sweet spot
 
I should probably stay out of this one as I have a 2120 but I had the same issues that you describe. It’s not uncommon on both the 21 and 23 DV Hull. Anyway, as someone who has done both the larger tabs and the Permatrim, I thought I’d offer my 2 cents. I would recomend that you add the Permatrim first. It’s not very expensive and it’s a good performing product for our Parker’s. It even made my 2120 track straighter when at no wake speeds. I’m confident that the Permatrim will correct the problem along with the added benefit of slower planing speed and perhaps a better fuel burn. On my 2006 F225, I’m at 2.5/2.6 MPG or about 11 GPH at cruise @ 4100/4200 and 27mph or so depending on current etc.. When I first got my boat it wouldn’t plane until about 20 mph. Permatrim dropped that to about 18ish and with the 12”x18” tabs it’s down to 16ish. Much better control into head seas getting the nose down. Can’t go wrong with the Permatrim. Probably all you need to do. Can mess with props and tabs after if you feel the need but that’s where I would start, JMO.
 
Solid advice given on taming the Parker DV hull.

Porpoising is a symptom of running the A/V plate too high. The A/V plate is a control surface. Contact with the water is necessary to push the bow down. If the A/V plate is too high and comes out the water the bow simply oscillates upward until the plate once again strikes the water and becomes an effective control surface.......rinse wash repeat. Not fun.

For DV hulls, mount the engine at a height the affords the best handling characteristics. For the DV hull this is either all the way down or one hole up. Parker ships them new in both configurations.

Triple the size of your A/V plate with a Permatrim and triple your fun. The boat rides longer, tracks better, rides more level. You have complete control and can put the bow anywhere you want it.

If you want even more control you can replace the 12x12 tabs with 12x18s.

And finally, it is a good idea to set up your boat with heavy stuff carried as far forward as possible.
 
Permatrim comes in two models, talk to SimYamaha, tell them your boat, motor, etc and they will get you the right one. For the F300 like my boat the undermount is hte way to go.
 
.......use a slow cure black polyurethane based adhesive/sealant that has no silicone ingredients which may react with aluminum. Paint thinner/rags is cheapest clean-up solvent and works great.
 
Brent":3c4zt7xb said:
Boat Life brand Life Seal product which is polyurethane and silicone sealant
M2cw

B2

Not a fan of mixing any type of silicone products with aluminum. Acid associated with silicone can react and become corrosive.

It may be recommended by Andy but I have seen what I have seen. 8)
 
Brent":16sy6j0o said:
Jim


What do you recommend?

Black 5200 slow cure. I run a continuous bead around the holes, in the holes, on the bolts/heads and across the back of it. Plenty of time to work, hand tighten bolts and wipe up the ooze. After 7 days the seam between the Perma and A/V plate plate will not wash out.

FWIW I have never had to remove any of the dozen or so I have installed. That said, slow steady pressure and heat would separate the joint very similar to the process of removing a Parker bow pulpit. While it provides great adhesion 5200 does not provide a "permanent" bond to aluminum like it does to other materials.
 

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