Parker 25 rehab rotted deck

[dougmacf]

Hello all,

Now that my health and energy are returning, I'm starting to tackle work on the boat. I've got a 1989 Parker MV Sport Cabin that's been sitting in my yard for 5 years. First, and most urgent, is replacing the cockpit floor. It has turned mushy over the years and between tapping on the floor, small drill hole soundings and direct observation, I'm sure that the entire cockpit deck floor needs removal/replacement. The cause is likely due to poor edge grain sealing around hatches and holes drilled to screw down the non-OEM second helm that someone way back when installed. I have to blame myself also for inadequate ventilation, not using the boat often enough, and poor attempts to weatherproof the boat during the off season.

My first chore is to cut out the deck leaving a 2" +/- strip of solid (?) decking at the perimeter, then inspecting the stringers and fuel tank and addressing as appropriate. Replacement will be 5/8" marine ply, resin sealed on top, bottom and cut edges. The plan is to seal a small ledger board (Azek, red cedar or compatible alternative) to the underside of this side strip and then resin the replacement ply to the ledger assembly. Assuming the stringers are OK, the ply would be sealed/fastened to the top edges with thickened epoxy and then(?) SS screws sealed in, countersunk and faired smooth. Finish on the deck would be glass/epoxy layered and gelcoat(?) or two part epoxy paint with nonskid.

Questions: Does the ledger setup make sense? I may need an alternative if the 2" strip is rotted.

I assume that I'll have to remove the fuel tank to inspect fully. Are there companies that pump them dry, flush them and inspect? The choices for tank replacement are poly and aluminum. Any preferences? Does someone make Parker replacement tanks or are they generic, i.e. the closest one that fits?

The wiring is archaic; a bit of this and a little of that. Should I redo the wiring before covering the floor up, or finish the floor, get her running on existing wiring, and enjoy the boat with wiring as a future project? I assume that wiring can be pulled under a finished deck with a wire fish.

The engine is a 1993 225 HP OMC. What ballpark am I looking at for replacing with a newer Yamaha(?) 2 stroke

Thanks for your input, I'll keep the light on,

Doug

 

[windknotnc]

Take a look at the sticky 21 SE Rehab I did several yrs ago. I think it is easier to cut the deck all the way around the inside of the hull rather than trying to use a ledger under a 2" lip. You will not be able to get enough fiberglass bond unless you go up the sides some.

 

[Brent]

Look at tank data spec label by fuel sender . Ex RDS and will have serial number. If not present , email Parker and RDS with year, model and HIN and request spec sheet

Read Warthog 2530 posts

Use Search tool and enter words like tank, epoxy, coal, tar, wema, etc


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[Brent]

You need a single 300 hp or more, or twins 200 no.

Read warthog 2530 posting
He picked Suzuki, others bought ETEC, Yamaha

I would update electrical systems, too

Download the Blue Seas catalog



Good luck


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[warthog5]

Replacement will be 5/8" marine ply, resin sealed on top, bottom and cut edges

Well your starting out wrong here. Marine Ply standard is A-B Marine Fir.......Fir will Check if you do it that way...Checking opens the top grain....The only way to stop the checking is add a layer of Glass.

Parker themselves went thru this. Decks would rot faster from the underside with just Resign coat....Yes it had fiberglass on the top.

Later they added a layer of glass to the bottom side.


Don't worry so much about having the tank inspected......Pull it...You look at it....If the alum is pitted.....Replace it...The tank will tell on itself.

Forget a Poly tank.....Chances are Extremely Good you will NOT find a tank of the proper size....To fit you would have to go with a smaller tank...That's not Good! Also.....A Poly tank is not the end all to having bad tanks....I have replaced a Poly tank with a alum tank.....When the Poly could not be made to seal properly.


Coal Tar Epoxy a New alum tank.....All new Fill,Vent and supply hoses are in order when a tank gets replaced.

You Only want to do this Once!