Parker 2520

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ktomlinson

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 13, 2015
Messages
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Location
Statenville, GA
My wife and I purchased a 2007 Parker 2520 and pulled it home on 01/03/15. The boat was in good working order, but required a few repairs and improvements. The weather has been spotty (rain) and I work full time, so for the past 6 weeks we have worked at every opportunity. We are finally done for now and plan on taking it and leaving it at the marina this weekend.

One of the first things we did was repair the engine cowling. My dad fiberglassed it, a friend color matched and painted it, then we replaced the drains inside the cowl and applied new stickers.
Before:

After:


The cowl was cracked when an employee of the previous owner trimmed the port outboard too high with the ladder folded up. The particular model is a few months too old to be capable of being fitted with a trim limit switch. The previous owner had the ladder tied up with a industrial strength twisty tie. We decided the best was to keep to ladder stable was to drill a hole through both the ladder and the aluminum pull bar and keep them secure with a bolt and a wing nut. It keeps the ladder high enough that I can trim the outboard more than enough for any occasion. The dive ladder is what drew my attention to this particular boat.



The next big project was discovered when I replaced the non-functioning horn that came with the boat. I discovered that the top had approx. 20 screws in it. Places where stuff used to be mounted. 15 of them were fine because the person doing it used 4200. The other 5 were rotten. I decided to make the roof solid again so I cleaned out and beveled all of the screw holes, and took out all of the rot and replaced everything with fiberglass and then gel coated it. I don't have the nonslip texture on my repairs, but recently read about a paint on non stick that I may try. (Anyone have any ideas?) I'm satisfied with the repair as is because it is structurally sound, but would be even happier if it looked better. The bolts on the rails were all leaking so I took them out, cleaned up everything and reinstalled with 4200. The antennae was also leaking, so I did the same for it, sealing it with 5200. One of the hand rails next to the pilothouse door was also leaking and got cleaned up and sealed. I don't know how anyone could stand to have a leaking pilothouse. We have had a lot of rain since the repair and the cabin is now completely dry. We cleaned the wall and roof carpet with rust removing spray and it removed almost all of the stains from leaks.



The interior wasn't properly ventilated so it experienced a fair amount of corrosion. Functionally this interfered with opening the windows easily and using the pilothouse door lock. Cosmetically it made window supports and the light look pretty bad. We replaced the window supports, the cylinder that holds the cuddy door open, the plastic slide rails in both seats (they were gone in the captains chair, and barley holding on in the other), and replaced the port hole screens, all from Cecil Marine. We replaced the light in the cabin and cuddy with white/red LED lights. We also replaced all of the screws for cosmetic reasons. Replaced the stereo and added a speaker in the pilot house to go with the two existing deck speakers. Hung up a fire extinguisher in the doorway of the cuddy. It is really out of the way, but easily accessible. It doesn't interfere with access to the cuddy at all. The metal strip that is attached to the fold down cuddy door was not attached because the acrylic on the fold down door gave way on every screw. Without the metal strip I couldnt keep the cuddy door securely closed. To fix that I drilled through both the cuddy door and acrylic and installed stainless steel t-nuts on bottom and bolts and finish washers up top. The t-nuts are thin enough to allow the latch to still function without the need for adjustment. There isn't much I can do about the window frames, but by replacing everything else is made the cabin look and function a lot better. It's dry and everything works smoothly.



The boat was purchased new with bottom paint (have the receipt), but it was looking green instead of black. I sanded it all smooth and cleaned it with TSP. When it dried I rolled on self ablating paint. I wasn't able to cover where it sits on the trailer bunks, but will cover those spots in the marina yard.



To be cont...
 

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I needed to replace the two batteries that came with the boat, and felt that a twin engine boat should have at least three batteries. After some research and advice received on-line I ended up with the following battery configuration, except I have two house batteries that are paralleled. I also installed a NECO Genius 4 bank charger.



The last big project was a freshwater washdown. My wife and I are avid divers. We bought this boat specifically for diving year round, and always knew that our next boat had to have fresh water. I decided to install a 17 gallon tank under the port gunnel. I secured it with a strip of starboard at the bottom and stainless steel straps and turnbuckles. It isn't going anywhere. We mounted the pump next to the tank (wired to the panel in the pilothouse) and then built a starboard enclosure around it. I have a shower to attach to the freshwater that we will keep stowed in the transom hatches.



We did other small things like change the light fixtures to LED (we just replaced the entire fixture due to weathering), installed a porta potti, and a ring buoy.





Things we did that I didn't photograph include replacing a non-functioning trim tab, servicing both engines including replacing water impellers and all fluids, repairing a dozen gel coat dings, installing a CO and smoke detector, fiberglassing a section of bow that had been scuffed by the trailer, and replacing the thru hulls in the transom fish box with new white plastic and the thru hulls on the outside hull with stainless steel.

I could have done a better job photographing the before and after, but hopefully this post is worthwhile or interesting to someone. I am happy to say as of today the boat is fully outfitted with offshore safety gear, maintenance items and tools, and ready to go. Can't wait for the weekend.

 

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Thank you! The work was a group effort, I'd still be working on it without the help! My wife and I got a lot of help from my parents. They also let me park it in their yard for the past month and a half for easy access to their shop!
 
Wow, very nice work. That dive ladder is extremely cool. I've got some gel coat dings and redoing the original bottom paint on my list also. I've never done the gel coat before and it's been years since I've done a bottom. I've herd names of products mentioned that I'm not familiar with so I see questions coming from me when I get around to it. My boat being 4.5 hrs away really drags my projects out as I do a litte and use it on the same trips. Your work looks great. Good luck with your first big outing :D
 
On the gel coat, I'm a newbie. Patching dings on my last boat was my first experience. Patching dings is pretty easy, my approach is to make sure they are sanded smooth and bevel it out to the rest of the surface. For screw holes I just used a Dremel with a rounded tipped sanding stone. Then make sure it's clean with acetone. When it drys and you put your gel in (with a spatula like plastic spreader) just make sure not to leave any voids. I try to make it as pretty as possible, but anything can be smoothed out with sand paper. When I'm done I sand it with at least 250 grit paper. Color matching the gel to your existing is where I think the talent comes in. Fortunately for Parker owners you can buy Parker gel from Cecil Marine. My boat will live about 2:15 from me, so I understand what you mean. That's why I wanted to do as much as possible before taking it down. Patching gel should be a good project because you can do the gel and leave and then sand it next time you go.
 
Patching holes I always use cab a sol. If u have done that much work on the top now would be a good time to redo the whole nonskid and redo the grab rails, radar mast and rocket launchers. Open the hole up fill in with cab a sole then re-drill to seal the wood completely. Plus the non-skid will match completely. Gel coat is more brittle then resin and should only be applied as surface coat. Easy to install non skid. Get a heavy grit sand paper and sand the top to knockdown the peaks of the old non skid. Tape of the sides or wet sand them if u deside to spray it, but I would roll on a thick layer of gelcoat for the nonskid to stick. Awl grip make a good nonskid. Make a salt shaker and speed it out. Roll on two more layers of gel coat and let dry with a curing agent spray over the top.
 

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That's a good idea! Thank you for the ideas. When I filled screw holes I wanted to clarify, I used fiber glass, and only covered the surface with gel. I see that I wrote put the gel "in", but meant to write "on". I will have to look up awl grip, thanks again for the suggestion!
 
ktomlinson":5us2v3ca said:
That's a good idea! Thank you for the ideas. When I filled screw holes I wanted to clarify, I used fiber glass, and only covered the surface with gel. I see that I wrote put the gel "in", but meant to write "on". I will have to look up awl grip, thanks again for the suggestion!
Cab o sol is a fiber powder that is mixed with resin to thicken it so it's more of a paste. Shoot that into the holes. I believe u mentioned that you read warthogs post on his 2530 he discusses it in detail.
 

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kidfreediver":zc0kf4zq said:
ktomlinson":zc0kf4zq said:
That's a good idea! Thank you for the ideas. When I filled screw holes I wanted to clarify, I used fiber glass, and only covered the surface with gel. I see that I wrote put the gel "in", but meant to write "on". I will have to look up awl grip, thanks again for the suggestion!
Cab o sol is a fiber powder that is mixed with resin to thicken it so it's more of a paste. Shoot that into the holes. I believe u mentioned that you read warthogs post on his 2530 he discusses it in detail.

Nice job!
 
I discovered the post with cabosol after making the repairs to the roof, but do plan to use it the next time I need to install something that requires a good hold. On the roof holes the process I used was to grind the holes out and the fill with "tiger hair". It's a resin and fiber mixture with short fiber strands. I packed the holes as tight as possible with that, and let it dry. I then sanded it and cleaned with acetone and then gel coated over that. For the larger hole that had rot I filled with tiger hair and then put two pieces of fiber cloth over it, and then gel. I would have used cabosol if I had read the post earlier.
 
ktomlinson":2mgqd0r1 said:
What do you want to know about the freshwater? I will be happy to provide details!
what kind of pump? Where did u find the tank. Hot water? Spray Nozzle is a shower head that attaches to the roof to be used as shower?
 
kidfreediver":1jeuqn9j said:
ktomlinson":1jeuqn9j said:
What do you want to know about the freshwater? I will be happy to provide details!
what kind of pump? Where did u find the tank. Hot water? Spray Nozzle is a shower head that attaches to the roof to be used as shower?

The pump I used was a Johnson 3.5GPM 70PSI (12V, 10A). I had the tank made through Plastic-Mart.com. I used a 8 1/8" wide, 15 1/2" tall and 38" long tank. The space between the stringers on the boat was 48", but I bought a shorter tank to leave room to mount the pump. I don't have hot water installed, but am usually diving in warm water in Florida, so don't think it will be an issue. In the winter I'll be diving a drysuit and will just need to rinse my hair/face. The Johnson pump kit came with a hose with a quick connect for the spray nozzle, which I will use to rinse the deck on the way back in, or maybe SCUBA gear. The shower is a RV shower head with on/off switch (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OA ... UTF8&psc=1). Some on/off switches let the water trickle, but this head actually turns it completely off. I am looking to a quick connect for the end of the shower hose, but haven't found one yet. I am using a suction cup shower head holder on the back of the pilothouse (not the roof), to hold the shower head while in use. The one I picked is very sturdy and the suction cup works well (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QLZ ... UTF8&psc=1). The shower head uses 2.0GPM, so that will slow down water usage. I wanted enough water to give at least 6 people a good shower after diving. I have around $750 in the freshwater system. $375 for the tank, $100 in starboard, $150 pump kit, $100 misc (turn buckles, steel tape, stainless screws).
 
I will add that ideally the tank would have a slanted bottom to match the hull angle so that it sits flat against the wall and floor at the same time. I put a strip of 3/4" starboard under it to support the lip and secured it between the two stringers(?) with two 1" pieces or stainless steel tape that was tightened with stainless steel turnbuckles. I used a piece of 1/8" thick rubber between the straps and anywhere it would touch the tank.
 
A picture of my dad and I installing the first steel strap. The next time I have the cover off for some reason I will take more pictures. The motor is mounted on wood. The wood is screwed to the stinger and has a brace glued to the hull. I know, wood sucks, but it shouldn't get wet. I will replace it when I run across some 1/2" starboard for a deal. In the pic you can also see the fill inlet. I installed it just like the fuel inlet is installed. Although it does read water on it, my mother made big vinyl stickers that say WATER ONLY. I forgot to add the inlet and hoses and clamps, better revise the cost of the project up to $850.

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I forgot to add that we had to take the rod holder out, cut it down some and weld back the piece of metal that stops the rod from going past the end of the tube.
 
Warthog, that's a possibility! It would need to be 4" long. The bolt and wing nut hold it pretty tight, tight enough it doesn't rattle. Where would I get one of those if I wanted to try it?
 
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