Radar Dome Mount - Rotating

[EDGEWATER]

After thinking about the folding style Radar Dome mount I decide to take a look at making one that rotates instead.

The Tube and Dome Mounting Plate will be fabricated from stainless steel. The Base Mount and Clamp Plates will be made from aluminum and then powder coated.

The parts not shown in these renderings include a spring loaded pin that maintains orientation of the Tube and fasteners for each Clamp Plate.

+ The first image shows the Dome deployed in an in-use configuration.

+ The second shows it lowered. Accomplished by listening the Tube Clamp Plates, disengaging the spring loaded alignment pin, sliding the tube forward and rotating downward.

+ Lasting image is a close-up.

Looking for some constructive input - if you see any gotcha's call them out.

Thanks

 

[warthog5]

I hope that will not have to be messed with on each outing. That would be a PITA. Rest assured that the finish will NOT last, as you twist thr pipe thru the clamps.

But it's a good exercise in brain work.

 

[TWOBOATER]

That's pretty clever. If the tube is ss, there's no finish to damage. One thought for you, instead of the clamps you could use a simple jaw that the pipe rests in, and the fastpin could slide through that to secure it. I think a simple fastpin to secure it in either position would not be a pain to use at all. It would take seconds to change position. Nice work!

 

[TimC2520]

We will have to discuss this over a couple of cold beverages Chip :wink:
In time.....

Leave enough excess cable for this move?

 

[Luv2fish]

As a retired cop, how easy will it be to steal the dome? Just loosen the bolts and disengage the locking pin. Everything is outside the boat.

Might look for a locking device on it.


Steve

 

[EDGEWATER]

Thanks for the input guys!

I will only rotate down to get the boat in and out of my garage.

As for ease of use - I am adding quick toggle fasteners. Fold them down to loosen the clamps, pull the spring pin, slide forward and rotate down. Seems pretty simple to me.

I'm likely overdesigning this but - that's what I do :wink:
Also, I want to make sure it is secure in 3' Chesapeake chop. The dome is about 20# and it's cantilevered out a bit.

One of my concerns is where it's mounted to the cabin roof. You can see it's pretty far forward and partially mounted to the unsupported portion of the roof. It seems pretty sturdy to me and I think it will be OK - thoughts on that anyone?

As mentioned - the post is stainless and will not get marred by the softer aluminum clamps. I will make sure everything is well greased.

My plan for the wire is to make one wrap around the post - will be secured when in the up position, when rotated down the wire will loosen.

As for security - it's two bolts less than a standard mount. The boat sits inside so not that big of an issue. I'll deal with the insurance company if it disappears.

Keep the comments coming!!

Appreciate the input.

 

[DaleH]

You could also weld or screw a small 1/4" square by X" long piece to sides of the tube, run along its length, as a "keyway". Then your mounting blocks really don't need to have any tightening feature, although I think it should have at least one way to prevent forward (out) movement like how you go to rotate it.

The keyway feature will hold it in position rick solid. Pull out the tube past the keyways (or have an interruption in them where those spots are the rotation spots), rotate it, slide it back in, and then lock in place. Simple!

Also be aware of galvanic corrosion between the SS tube and mounts, so you could insert a Delrin or nylon bushing that holds the tube inside the mount.

 

[EDGEWATER]

Dale -- thanks for your input.

Galvanic corrosion was on my mind - hadn't gotten around to checking the galvanic scale charts yet. You're right - aluminum / stainless is a bad choice. If I don't insulate like you suggested I will make the entire assembly from Stainless. Will eliminate need for powder coat / paint step. My buddy has a tumbler that should put a nice finish on all of the machined parts.

The keyway is a good idea - although I think will add to the cost. Also, I'm concerned about drag on the tube / saddle interface. That's why I chose to make it a split clamp.

Keep 'em coming.

Appreciate the design review.

 

[EDGEWATER]

A couple of updated images.

 

[DaleH]

IMHO you would still need an anti-rotation keyway feature, but you could add a simple one yourself.

 

[EDGEWATER]

Dale -

The knob on the forward bracket is a spring loaded pin plunger. I will have a hole drilled in the tube to provide positive location and prevent rotation.

 

[Bryan 2530]

Better off with a plate that flips in my opinion, search my posts for pics.

KISS simple applies here, plus that will look like chain link fence parts up there, the plate almost disappears when not flipped and looks "normal"

Good idea, too many moving parts for me.