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Raw water washdown

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96TL

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Do any of you guys have a pic of the factory installed raw water washdown panel (where you screw the hose)? Thanks.

Dom
 

Ranger Tim

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Mine would be very different from your set up due to the 2120 having a notch transom. If there is still a need to post pic's of my washdown I'd be happy to a oblidge.
 

96TL

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Thanks Tim, but I’m looking for a shot of the washdown on a closed transom boat. I want to see if I can duplicate the way Parker installs it at the factory. I regret not getting that option. :(
 

JimH

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Dom,
I've got a 2006 2320SL with the factory installed raw water wash and I will take some pictures tommorrow when I'm on the boat.

JimH
 

esfishdoc

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These might help.....

Let me know if you need more from different angles.....

You can learn a lot about your bilge by putting a camera down there and shoot some pictures.

I just replaced a hose that was leaking.... Now I have another leak and I think it is coming from the output angle on the right...

Richard
 

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96TL

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Thanks Rich. Do you have any pics of the switch panel and hose output? I want to see where they mounted it.
 

Devilfish

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In reference to the leaks- my washdown hose was loose from the factory, an easy fix, but required some contortion. This year, the hose split just behind the hose clamp on the fitting that enters the pump. I also had this splitting problem on the freshwater washdown hose. I'm not sure of the cause, but it happened both times right at the fitting. Neither was a gusher, they both sprayed under pressure. So, check those fittings and hoses for splits.
 

Megabyte

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Here is a shot of the OEM pump...





The OEM ball valve for the water inlet...



I cannot locate a photo of the outlet, but it is located under the port side washboard. In this shot, you can see the hose that is attached to it.



I'll be at the boat today to do some maintenance, so I'll get you a detail photo of the outlet.
 

Megabyte

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96TL":15rmvav4 said:
So the pump is inside the bilge?
Nope. It is on the inside of the transom wall. Those big azz backing plates that you see in the photos are the plates for the motor bracket.
That might give you an idea of where it is located.

Here are the photos that you asked for.





Hope this helps.
 

gw204

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Man, I gotta compliment your Parkers on how clean and nicely finished the bilges are. Much better than on my Grady....
 

96TL

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Thanks for the pics Megabyte.

I need some more advice. 8)

I'm having a thru-hull & seacock installed this week. I am going to use one thru-hull for both the livewell and washdown. I plan on using a Rule dual port livewell pump mounted directly to the seacock. It looks like the thru-hull port on the Rule pump is 3/4".

#1 = Would a single 3/4" thru-hull supply enough water for my livewell (700 GPH) and my Groco washdown?

#2 - The secondary port off the Rule pump is 1/2". Would this be enough to supply 6.5GPM for the Groco washdown?

This is the dual port livewell pump:

http://www.rule-industries.com/prodInfo ... anyId=RULE

This is the washdown pump:

http://www.groco.net/images/pumps/pumps-deckwash.html

Thanks guys.

Dom :)
 

dcunniff

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I have a setup on the transom too, and I noticed recently I had a leak on the discharge side of the pump. I don't use the pump much.

The original hose wasn't cut straight so I tried a week ago to pull it off and recut it. Didn't help as I put a nick in the plastic barb on the outside (a small one but enough to channel). Mine is accessed through a transom door.

Dana
 

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96TL

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I’m ready to order a seacock and thru-hull for my washdown/livewell project. I’m going with 3/4”. Groco makes some nice stuff, but they have 2 different seacocks, one is triple the price. It looks like it’s just more heavy duty. Does anyone know the difference between the two? The first one is $30, the second is $100.

http://www.groco.net/images/seacocks/06-fbv.asp

http://www.groco.net/images/seacocks/06-bv.asp

Also, for the thru-hull, do most of you guys use a thru-hull with a built in scoop like this:

http://www.groco.net/images/fittings/STH-W-500-05.gif

Or do you use a standard mushroom thru-hull with a separate strainer? This way would seem safer because if you struck something, the strainer would break off but the thru-hull would remain intact (hopefully).

http://www.groco.net/images/fittings/HSTH-W-500-05.gif

http://www.groco.net/images/strainers/sc-05-450.gif

Thanks for the help, sorry about the long winded post. I’m stressing a bit over this install and want to make sure its 100%.

Dom
 

DaleH

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My '92 install uses that std scoop to thru-hull that was mated to what appears to be that $30 seacock. I pulled it completely apart in 2002 ... cleaned and regreased, then re-installed ... but all was well from the original installation.
 

Ranger Tim

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Same scoop here too. It will force water through the seacock and out the hose at a pretty good clip. I once forgot to reconnect the hoses to the pump after rinsing once and filled the bilge on the next trip! "Hey, why's the bilge pump running?" :shock: AAAAH! A good rinsing of the bilge with seawater took place. I like the scoop. It will ride over a trailer roller, deflect any trash, and seems to be fairly robust. Rinse the pump with fresh water every chance you get, just hold a hose up to the scoop and have someone run the pump for a couple of minutes.

Be sure to winterize the pump and lines before the first freeze. Use the raw water to simulate fish feeding on the surface. Sometimes it fools 'em.

Just a slight chill passed through me this time when I saw the red light on next to the bilge switch. Once I was 75 miles offshore in a 23 Mako when I noticed the bilge pump running -- a six foot crack had opened in the hull below the water line, a stringer had given up the ghost -- water was creeping up the floor from the stern -- We ran wide open with the plug removed; I learned how to bail efficiently that day -- but that's another story....
 
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