Repairing older windows (Pre 2003)

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SBH2OMan

SBH2OMan

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Location
Santa Barbara, CA
Coming home in some nasty weather recently reminded me of how badly I need to rebuild my front-facing windows. I have a fixed window on the port side and a swing-open window on the starboard side.

The port window's interior seal has shrunk, leaving a ~4mm gap that dribbles water onto the dash in heavy weather. The starboard side lower clamps are rotting away, as is the frame to which they are attached (looks like galvanic corrosion due to the dissimilar metals).

I believe I've read that these older windows were manufactured by Wynne Enterprises, and I've spoke to them briefly in the past and was told that my only option was to replace the entire window assembly at a price of around $500 or $600.

Given that these windows appear to be modular, it seems like I should just be able to replace the inner aluminum frame portion on the starboard side and affix new clamps to that frame.

Has anyone had a similar situation and found a good solution other than replacing the entire unit?

The weatherstripping on my sliding windows is also all buggered, though not as important to replace - has anyone repaired the weather stripping in the sliders? (both sides have their rotating locks broken as well...

Thanks,

Brent
 
Brent":34f6r7q4 said:
M2cw buy 2 new opening Wynne or convert to DSG windows


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

If I go the route of complete replacement, I'll probably go Diamond Seaglaze. I'm just not ready to drop >$1,000 at this point... I just spent $11k on a new fuel tank. :(
 
I have a 2001 2520 with Wynne windows and did some work on my front port window last spring. Sounds like your windows might not be in great condition to replace parts - if you can perhaps go that route. I replaced the slider brackets and bases that screw into the front port window frame. I purchased the rubber molding as mine had come unstuck but have not had the time to implement given other improvements. I had to re-drill the holes in the window as it was not an exact match. Now the windows slide much easier and the knobs are tight. The reason I replaced was the one knob came loose and did not tighten - the window would shake in rough seas. I am planning to install the rubber molding next month. The guy at Wynne was helpful and can coach you along.
As for my side windows, my insert is wearing as well. My issue is the plastic clips that replaced the old metal clips, in my opinion are not good at all...The windows barely slide and they did not fit the slots that held the old metal slides. I needed to re-drill the outside frame of the screen for the worthless plastic slides to fit. Open to hear if anyone has any suggestions for the screens to slide better.
Thanks and good luck, Larry
 
Contact Wynne for tech support

Are the front frames still water tight?
You can refinish in place

On the movable windows, there are 4 screws per side.
Remove window and glass then refinish

Wynne has parts, paint or shop for sliders and locks online

My locks are shot and just use the sliders. I plan to refinish them and not use locks.
My side windows are ok
 
350bake":wrh47wgl said:
... I replaced the slider brackets and bases that screw into the front port window frame. I purchased the rubber molding as mine had come unstuck but have not had the time to implement given other improvements. I had to re-drill the holes in the window as it was not an exact match. Now the windows slide much easier and the knobs are tight. The reason I replaced was the one knob came loose and did not tighten - the window would shake in rough seas. I am planning to install the rubber molding next month. The guy at Wynne was helpful and can coach you along.
Click to expand...

Thanks Larry - do you have sliding windows in the front? (that face forward?). Mine swings out and is hinged at the top.

The issue with mine is that the interior frame has two chromed steel catches riveted to it. (The "v" part on the right)

pko0697-dp-chr_f.jpg


Where this is riveted to the frame has completely rotted away to the point where the catch broke off and cannot be re-fastened. If I could replace just the interior frame (and these two catches) it would probably get me by. I cannot imagine that aluminum frame being more than $100 or so if it was available separately.

Brent":wrh47wgl said:
Are the front frames still water tight?
You can refinish in place

On the movable windows, there are 4 screws per side.
Remove window and glass then refinish

Wynne has parts, paint or shop for sliders and locks online

My locks are shot and just use the sliders. I plan to refinish them and not use locks.
My side windows are ok
Click to expand...

Not sure if the frames themselves are water-tight, but they were good enough before the catch gave way. They always dribbled a bit but now it doesn't seal at all. When you say "movable windows" are you referring to the front forward-facing window? (that hinges up and out). They do look pretty easy to disassemble. I may just figure out a way to cement/screw it shut permanently with some rubber gasket or something. I would miss the breeze on warm days, but it would be better than having a stream of saltwater pouring over my instruments while underway in rough seas...

Oh, and I got a quote from Diamond Seaglaze for replacement windows for the front. ~$3,000 with shipping and tax, No thanks.
 
Thanks guys, I will give Wynne another call. I called them last year and as I recall they told me that these windows can't be rebuilt and must be entirely replaced at a cost of around $500 plus crating and shipping.
 
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