I'm think I'm going to have the main bilge pump replaced on my 2017 2820 when I put it up for the winter in December. I almost always have one of my engines running when casting for Stripers. Condictions were such tonight that I cut all engine power and was drift fishing when I kept hearing a faint sound. At first I thought it was hum from the Siruis radio, nope, then made sure I didn't lean into the switch panel and turn on a wash down pump or something. Nope. After going bow to stern a few times listening and trying to locate the sounds I opened the rear hatch and the float switch was stuck up on the bilge pump and it was running dry. The switch sure wasn't free moving and I have no idea how long that pump had been running dry when I freed up the float but the pump was pretty warm. I was about 2 hours into my trip today but who knows, it could have been running on my last trip though I sure think I would have heard it when I tied up at the pier and left for the night. Not sure how much confidence I have in it now not knowing how long it had been running. Thinking I'd rather replace and know it's good than wonder about it. Oh well.....
Replacing main bilge pump
- Thread starter johnkn
- Start date
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I have this switch on both my forward and aft pumps. Two weeks ago I stopped by the boat on my way home and heard a noise coming from in the cabin. Opened the PH door and heard the forward pump running. Popped the pie plate and there was very little water down there, certainly not enough to activate the switch. No moving parts, but still malfunctioned. I ended up replacing it with a new, same style switch.
https://waterwitchinc.com/wp-content/up ... hsheet.pdf
https://waterwitchinc.com/wp-content/up ... hsheet.pdf
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Replace it. They lead a hard life.
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I have an automatic pump tied to helm Rule switch. I switched from flipper to this setup and turn off pump switch when on the lift . When under way , I can switch to auto or on but does not have an on indicator light. Maybe next time.. I used the bilge wiring cable protected with outside sheath for increase wire protection.
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Float switches are known to be problematic.
Consider switching to a solid state switch like the Water Witch Model 101.
https://waterwitchinc.com/product/model ... ge-switch/
During my spring commissioning I was cleaning the bilge with soap and water and the bilge pumps were being exercised.
Then I noticed that it wasn't my primary bilge pump that was running, it was my backup. :shock:
A check of the float switches showed the primary switch was not working. Not a good thing.
I replaced all 3 bulge pump switches with Water Witch solid state switches and never had another issue after that.
Consider switching to a solid state switch like the Water Witch Model 101.
https://waterwitchinc.com/product/model ... ge-switch/
During my spring commissioning I was cleaning the bilge with soap and water and the bilge pumps were being exercised.
Then I noticed that it wasn't my primary bilge pump that was running, it was my backup. :shock:
A check of the float switches showed the primary switch was not working. Not a good thing.
I replaced all 3 bulge pump switches with Water Witch solid state switches and never had another issue after that.
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I wish I had this much space and clear access
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Maybe take out deck fish hold and move fuel tank forward.
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warthog5
Well-known member
Just a FYI: This ALL in one style known as the "Automatic"......I take out and throw them away. They monitor and run even while on the trailer and run batteries down. And how do you test them before a voyage, to see if the Auto part works? You can't!
I've never had a problem with 1500 & 2000 Rule pumps and The Rule A Matic Plus float switches. I've put them in a LOT of boats.
Easy to test with the lever on the side of the float switch.
Bilges get Nasty.....Bilges must be kept clean to make your pumps and switches work properly.
I've never had a problem with 1500 & 2000 Rule pumps and The Rule A Matic Plus float switches. I've put them in a LOT of boats.
Easy to test with the lever on the side of the float switch.
Bilges get Nasty.....Bilges must be kept clean to make your pumps and switches work properly.
grouperjim
Well-known member
I don't like anything to do anything unless I tell it to do something.
Pop out the 5 amp fuse. Run it as needed manually.
I like the Rule pumps as well.
Pop out the 5 amp fuse. Run it as needed manually.
I like the Rule pumps as well.
Pig Pen
Well-known member
warthog5":253q22lq said:
How do you test them...gain access to the pump....wait till you hear it turn on for a second...that is something I do before and after a trip....I also test my bilge pump with the float switch at the same time
warthog5
Well-known member
Note the small lever.... That gives you access to move the float.
In the pix.....It's on the left side just below the wiring.
PKS1801
Well-known member
I think Pig Pen was saying that was how he tested his automatics, the ones you throw away.
warthog5
Well-known member
That's just it......You can't manually test the automatic's.......Unless you fill the bilge with water. 
