Requesting advice on Windlass installation

[joshdad]

I am in the process of installing a Lewmar Pro-series windlass on my new 2320. I have finished most of the wiring and I am getting ready to mount the windlass itself. I would appreciate any advice on this part of the job.

The instructions call for drilling a 3" hole above the anchor locker through which the rope and chain will pass. I want to be certain that this hole is properly located so the rope and chain fall into the anchor locker cleanly.

Can anyone give me suggestions or any specific tricks to make sure the windlass is mounted in the best position and that the rope/chain pass through hole is properly located.

thanx

 

[Ranger Tim]

See my reply to the other windlass thread and then check back with me to see if there is anything else (like specific measurements) that may help you. I'll be glad to go out and check mine and snap a pic or two with a ruler in the frame. The difference between the 2120 and the 2320 couldn't be that severe regarding the anchor locker placement.

 

[joshdad]

Tim,

Any measurements (or photos with ruler) you could provide regarding the exact placement of the windlass deck hole would be much appreciated.

Your pictures give me a good general idea, but obviously I don't want to screw this up.

thanx,

 

[Porkchunker]

My Lewmar Horizon 500 installation instructions had pictures of how to place the windlass WRT the anchor locker so that the rope would fall down and coil. Look over those instructions, and see (from inside the locker) where you want the rope to exit through the deck. Mark that spot. Then (assuming the deck is clear above), drill a 1/4" "pilot" hole at themark. Then go topsides and using the pilot hole as the guide, drill out the 3" hole. Tape off the bottom of the hole, and then slather thinned epoxy resin on the exposed wood surfaces. Once the epoxy is hard, continue with the installation using the instructions.

BTW, there is normally a template in the instructions that lay out where all the holes get drilled. Use the 3" hole as the alignment point for that template.

Dave

 

[joshdad]

Well, for what it's worth here is the mounting hole pattern that was produced when I did my best to align the template properly. Since the bow pulpit on the 2320 does not lie directly above the deepest part of the anchor locker, there really is no way that the pass-through hole will lie exactly above that point. Nevertheless after final installation (picture below) the rope/chain combination enters the locker fairly well although not perfectly. I am working on a solution for that and will add to this thread when I figure it out.

 

[grouperjim]

You probably won't like my input, but I installed the same windlass on my 2320 exactly in the same place as you, which is really the only place.

After many observations with my wife operating the windlass, I discovered that the anchor line would start to coil, but when coiling aft towards the deep end of the anchor locker, the line would hit the aft most part of the bottom of the hole causing the line not to drop as far back as I would like. In the end, I ended up uninstalling motor, and redrilling the 3 inch hole in the same place but angled more towards the back. You also have to angle the hole for the wires as well.

jim

 

[joshdad]

Jim,

I am using the new 8-brait line which is quite a bit more flexible than standard anchor line. I have noticed that the line does not all fall in the deepest part of the anchor locker but so far it hasn't been too bad. I also have another potential "trick up my sleeve" to improve the lay of the line but I don't want to talk about it until I have tried it out.

BTW I read an earlier post about angling the hole so I did that with my original install.

thanx for your advice.

 

[Claymar]

Joshdad,

Was looking at the pictures of your Lewmar.

Had mine installed by the dealer and they put it several inches forward of yours which puts the rode entry right at the front edge of the locker. Problem is that the rode tends to bunch up and bind the winch as it does not slide cleanly towards the bottom of the locker.

How is yours working out in the rearward position? It seems it should work much better with greater freefall.

 

[joshdad]

Claymar,

I understand exactly what you are saying. I thought about the placement quite a bit before I drilled the holes. I placed the windlass as far back on the pulpit as I could in order to allow the rode to fall into the deepest part of the locker. As you know the way the pulpit sits with respect to the locker, makes it impossible to locate the through-hole directly above the deepest part of the locker. Thus, I think all of us with an anchor windlass are more or less facing a similar problem of having the anchor rode fall into the locker in a location that tends to allow the rode to bunch up.

In my case the problem is not too bad. I have not used my anchor much since I installed my windlass, but on the trailer I was able to return about 250 feet of my anchor line before I had to take the time to push the line further down into the anchor locker in order to prevent fouling.

Still this is not perfect- unfortunately, I am a bit of a perfectionist.

I have 2 solutions in mind that have to do with relatively minor modifications in my installation. If I can work out the bugs I will post my suggestions.

It is reassuring to know that even the "professional installers" do not seem to be able to do a better job than the hardcore Classic Parker readers (;>)

good luck

 

[Claymar]

Joshdad,

Thanks.

Sounds like your thinking on the right path.

Really get disgusted with mine every so often. I put the thing on there so I wouldnt have to be fooling around out on the bow with anchor rode. The only saving grace is that its easier to get to the bow and clear a jam then it is to pull 150 feet or so of anchor rode hand over hand.

Will really be interested in whatever solution you come up with.

 

[Porkchunker]

My 1/2" 3-strand anchor rode coils perfectly in the locker. most of the coils are figure 8.

The bow of the 2510 and the other 25xx models should be about identical. I'll measure the distance from the rear anchor locker bulkhead to the back of the hole and post the distance here. Someone who has a 23xx model with pulpit and factory installed windlass who is happy with the way it works, should do the same.

Also. have read on many boating forums down through the years to use a STIFF rope for the anchor rode, and avoid the use of soaps and softener when cleaning it at the end of the season. The softer ropes don't often don't coil, but can get tangled and knotted. So...I buy a stiff rope and only rinse it with fresh water at the end of the season.

Dave

P.S. My only problem right now is self inflicted. When I made the new rope to chain splice this spring, I didn't thin the strands soon enough, the spice is too thick, and jumps the gypsy. Crap. Every time I make these splices, it takes me two or three times to get them right. Guess I need to practice more often with a piece of chain and rope at home in the winter.

 

[Lucky John]

My Pro Fish 700 just came.I have ordered 300' of 1/2 with 15' of quarter inch chain by Plastimo.Is this rode any good?
I only have a 2120 so I imagine the unit will have to be installed as far back on the pulpit as it can.Even this will not put the 3" hole anywhere near the center of the anchor locker,but it looks like enough depth with 300' to coil back.My buddies boat had a windlass that became a PITA because rode would not coil properly and jamb windlass.His had a plastic thing which kept the line down,it would snap right off.I see on this unit it is steel,thank god.
Maybe I'll use my boaters world coupon to buy the anchor.