Rocker Switch gone bad

[Andy]

I was hoping someone can help me with some information on Rocker Switches, the ones inside the pilothouse, to the left of the steering wheel. (controls wipers, pump, bait-well, cockpit-lights, etc) that are on a 2013 Parker 2520 XLD. Are the switches supposed to get 'hot', hot to the touch while on? One switch gets very hot, but not hot enough that you can't hold your finger on it..... Does anyone know the brand name, and where I can buy these rocker switches, and how to replace them?....
The bottom two switches of the panel are labeled "ACC" or "AUX"....(accessory/auxiliary I forgot which). One of these switches controls a Garmin 1040 XS, Garmin HD Radar, depth and sonar, and a ICOM VHF that is tied to the 1040XS for MMSI capability. These all were installed by the factory and/or Garrett Marine in Virginia. The one switch that controls all this has malfunctioned. It lights up dim, but does not allow enough currant-flow to operate. Like I mentioned, the switch gets hot to the touch; might it be the wrong amperage? Also, this set-up has worked flawlessly for almost 7 years. It just recently stopped working... Could the heat have damaged the switch?
I switched the wires from the damaged switch to the other "Aux" switch, and all electronics are working perfectly again.
By the way, I have never liked this set-up; I bough the boat used about 5 years ago, and that is how it was wired from the factory and/or dealer. I'd rather have a separate switch circuit for each piece of equipment, or have it all direct wired where it does not go through this switch at all. Like Warthog has mentioned many times, 'why have to turn it on twice!

 

[warthog5]

You did Not say what switch is getting HOT.

I hate when people hook their electronics's thru a rocker switch. It's Stupid!

When you go in your Bedroom to turn on the light......Do you have to hit 2 switches? No.....You don't.

The master Battery switch kills everything. Then the ON?OFF button on the Chartplotter and VHF turn the unit ON.

I just recently worked on a 2020 Alumweld jon boat. 1856 He let the dealer install all kinds of things on the boat....What a Abortion!

My point is...The manufacture and the dealer can do things WRONG! All in the name of Bean counting.

The switch can be manipulated out of the panel by pushing on the tabs on the backside....The Rocker itself can be gingerly pryed off and placed on another New switch...so it matches.


If your search around this site there is info on switches.....
https://newwiremarine.com/marine-grade-switches/

 

[Andy]

You did Not say what switch is getting HOT.

I hate when people hook their electronics's thru a rocker switch. It's Stupid!

When you go in your Bedroom to turn on the light......Do you have to hit 2 switches? No.....You don't.

The master Battery switch kills everything. Then the ON?OFF button on the Chartplotter and VHF turn the unit ON.

I just recently worked on a 2020 Alumweld jon boat. 1856 He let the dealer install all kinds of things on the boat....What a Abortion!

My point is...The manufacture and the dealer can do things WRONG! All in the name of Bean counting.

The switch can be manipulated out of the panel by pushing on the tabs on the backside....The Rocker itself can be gingerly pryed off and placed on another New switch...so it matches.


If your search around this site there is info on switches.....
https://newwiremarine.com/marine-grade-switches/

Thank you for your reply. I must have been unclear about which switch was getting hot. (I guess I was being too 'wordy'). The only switch that gets hot is the one where the Garman 1040XS mfd-chart-plotter, depth/sonar, Radar and VHF are all controlled by that one AUX/ACC switch. I'm guessing it gets hot as all those items are drawing more amperage than the switch is rated for? Or, is the switch getting hot a normal occurrence?

 

[warthog5]

Well No Wonder! That Radar draws a Bunch. Your installer has no clue about amp draw.

Tell me "EXACTLY" what units you have....He probably has the dang NEMA power on it too.

 

[warthog5]

No! A switch should not get HOT!

 

[Andy]

Well No Wonder! That Radar draws a Bunch. Your installer has no clue about amp draw.

Tell me "EXACTLY" what units you have....He probably has the dang NEMA power on it too.

Thank you once more! I bought the boat when it was 2-3 years old. The first owner said the electronics package was 'factory-installed' and installed by Garrett Marine, Northern Neck, VA...
Here are the electronics; all were installed end of 2013 to February 2014. Every item listed below is powered on via that ONE Rocker Switch.

Garmin 1040 XS GPS Map 1000 Series. Multi-function display. Ser/ # 3MQ001766. Bar Code 320-00372-03.
Cable set s/3080618. Part #010-11617-00

Garmin Radar M/N GMR-18HD. CE0191 Marine Radar Scanner. FCC ID IPH-GMR18 IC 1792-A-GMR18
CMI 201L0715. Bar Code 10H03 10.5V 3-0AY

VHF, ICOM- IC-M412. Ser # 110 366 53. FCC ID #AFJ305400. IC-202-D. C 305400-D. The VHF has the MMSI number registered and it receives the Lat/Lon information from the Garmin 1040XS

It also has the Depth Sounder, and what they call high definition 'sonar/depth'... I don't have the numbers or information on which transducer handy, but I'll try to locate that.
As I mentioned, every item listed above is powered on via that ONE Rocker Switch.
I will take my Infrared Thermometer out one the boat and get an actual temperature of the switch when it heats up....
Thank you for all your help!

 

[knotflying]

Seems like a lot of power going through one switch. Are the wires connecting to it the correct gauge? All those units should have their own switch as part of the unit. Why not disconnect the two wires going to and from the switch and connect them together. Hence you are eliminating the switch. Each unit can be turned on and off independently at the unit. Once you do that I would make sure the wires at your connection are not getting hot, hence indication of an overload to insufficient wire gauge.

 

[warthog5]

OK I have rounded up all the power draw info for your equipment.

10a Garmin 104XS
6a NEMA Backbone
7.5a Radar [I was surprised at that one]
4a Garmin Black Box
10a Icom VHF
-----
37.5amps on a 15amp switch



Heres how you fix it.

Buy a Blues Seas 6 gang Fuse block w/ GND

Bring Power to that Fuse panel. I can't tell you "Exactly" how to do that because I can't see the boat. I don't know if the main feed wire from the ON/OFF switch is Big enough... 10ga.....which a LOT use ...is not Big enough.
Oh it's Big enough to operate the boat.......UNTIL you go adding stuff...Like we have here. Another Hot wire [Red] attached to the ON/OFF switch[ 8ga] and it needs to have a circuit Breaker [40amp] within about 6 to 12in after it comes out of the ON/OFF switch going forward to this new fuse panel.....You will need to run a 8ga Black to the negative buss on that fuse panel from the NEG Buss in the back....Or the NEG battery terminal.

Now pull everything off that switch. Wire each to a single fuse on the fuse panel and install the proper size Fuse in the panel. Not all 15amp fuses....UGH! Yea I see that.

Now your equipment is protected...Each unit will turn ON via it's own ON/OFF switch. The Master ON/OFF switch will Kill power to all of it at the end of the day.

 

[Andy]

OK I have rounded up all the power draw info for your equipment.

10a Garmin 104XS
6a NEMA Backbone
7.5a Radar [I was surprised at that one]
4a Garmin Black Box
10a Icom VHF
-----
37.5amps on a 15amp switch



Heres how you fix it.

Buy a Blues Seas 6 gang Fuse block w/ GND

Bring Power to that Fuse panel. I can't tell you "Exactly" how to do that because I can't see the boat. I don't know if the main feed wire from the ON/OFF switch is Big enough... 10ga.....which a LOT use ...is not Big enough.
Oh it's Big enough to operate the boat.......UNTIL you go adding stuff...Like we have here. Another Hot wire [Red] attached to the ON/OFF switch[ 8ga] and it needs to have a circuit Breaker [40amp] within about 6 to 12in after it comes out of the ON/OFF switch going forward to this new fuse panel.....You will need to run a 8ga Black to the negative buss on that fuse panel from the NEG Buss in the back....Or the NEG battery terminal.

Now pull everything off that switch. Wire each to a single fuse on the fuse panel and install the proper size Fuse in the panel. Not all 15amp fuses....UGH! Yea I see that.

Now your equipment is protected...Each unit will turn ON via it's own ON/OFF switch. The Master ON/OFF switch will Kill power to all of it at the end of the day.

I cannot thank you enough for all this help and information. If we had availability to someone with your knowledge and abilities I would gladly pay to have it done the right way. (does anyone know of someone like Warthog in eastern NC?) I WILL do everything you outlined here., and Thank You once again. I hope you know how much everyone on this site appreciates your willingness to share your expertise. I'm a relatively new ClassicParker member; This is the first time I posted a question, asking for help, and I am overwhelmed by your response. It is very much appreciated.

 

[Andy]

Seems like a lot of power going through one switch. Are the wires connecting to it the correct gauge? All those units should have their own switch as part of the unit. Why not disconnect the two wires going to and from the switch and connect them together. Hence you are eliminating the switch. Each unit can be turned on and off independently at the unit. Once you do that I would make sure the wires at your connection are not getting hot, hence indication of an overload to insufficient wire gauge.

Thank you Knotflying.... I will try everything that everyone is suggesting.... I'm trying to figure out 'what has changed?' since everything has worked fine since 2013! The wire sizes are good but as Warthog mentioned, the switch is way to low of amp capacity. I totally agree, and I will be changing it all to do as you and Warthog suggest....