SEACOCK OR BALLVALVE
- Thread starter J V
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Many people will argue that a seacock should always be selected before a ball valve. Seacocks are preferred, however, what the factory installed on my boat has been fine by me.
If you don't have anything right now, you definitely need a valve of some sort, and keep it closed when the device(s) the line is feeding is not in use.
I personally know of 2 boats that sank because a live well line broke, and the valve had been left open. One boat sank at the dock, the other one while fishing in the open Bay. Neither boat was equipped with a high water alarm, so the owners never knew there was a problem until it was too late.
If you don't have anything right now, you definitely need a valve of some sort, and keep it closed when the device(s) the line is feeding is not in use.
I personally know of 2 boats that sank because a live well line broke, and the valve had been left open. One boat sank at the dock, the other one while fishing in the open Bay. Neither boat was equipped with a high water alarm, so the owners never knew there was a problem until it was too late.
DaleH
FOUNDER of Classic Parker Forum
When in doubt ... go to to the Regs, in this case as per ABYC:
Seacock = A tapered cone or ball valve type valve with a handle that rotates only 90 degrees that also has an integral flange. Whether this is on or off the boat it is still called a seacock as that is its only designed purpose.
Ball Valve = This is still called a ball valve unless installed on the top of a flanged adapter or a thru-hull fitting, then it becomes a seacock. While it is not a seacock in the "proper" sense, any valve that penetrates the hull becomes a seacock if it meets the 90 degree handle rotation definition set forth in ABYC H-27.
Now, with that said, I prefer the seacock as it is my belief that there is an inherent strength advantage with the installation by having the large flange of the traditional seacock mounted against the hull.
NEVER use a 'gate valve' on a boat. While some may be made of marine quality bronze, most are cheaper metals not designed to withstand the rigor and environment of duty at sea.
Seacock = A tapered cone or ball valve type valve with a handle that rotates only 90 degrees that also has an integral flange. Whether this is on or off the boat it is still called a seacock as that is its only designed purpose.
Ball Valve = This is still called a ball valve unless installed on the top of a flanged adapter or a thru-hull fitting, then it becomes a seacock. While it is not a seacock in the "proper" sense, any valve that penetrates the hull becomes a seacock if it meets the 90 degree handle rotation definition set forth in ABYC H-27.
Now, with that said, I prefer the seacock as it is my belief that there is an inherent strength advantage with the installation by having the large flange of the traditional seacock mounted against the hull.
NEVER use a 'gate valve' on a boat. While some may be made of marine quality bronze, most are cheaper metals not designed to withstand the rigor and environment of duty at sea.
greatcir
Well-known member
Megabyte - is it my eyes or the photo.............but is a bolt missing on the flange of your seacock?......Pete
DaleH
FOUNDER of Classic Parker Forum
greatcir":3o2nuk14 said:
No bolts missing. In fact, NONE are used! Same install as on my '92. The flange part of the seacock is threaded on the large thread coming up from the scoop, with the flange turned into a bed of 3M 5200. No such bolts needed
.