SeaStar Question

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CapeCodFrank

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I have air in my steering... due, I think, to a loose relief valve. I noticed fluid on the swim platform below it, and I clearly have air in the system. I read the posts about bleeding the system and I am ready to give it a try. I purchased the SeaStar fluid today and noticed that it is clear. When I look at the leak on the swim platform, the fluid is red. So I suspect that the dealer, four years ago when I bought the boat, used transmission fluid or something other than this clear SeaStar fluid. My question is this... should I add the clear SeaStar fluid to the mix, should I return the SeaStar fluid and buy the red transmission fluid, or should I purge the system of all the red stuff and replace it all with SeaStar? If I should purge the system, how should I go about it?
 
This subject has been beat to death here as to the red or clear. :? It seems as though Parker factory fills steering with some high tech avaition, (if I remember the gist of the thread some time back), hydraulic fluid that has the same properties as the Seastar clear fluid.

So you say that you noticed fluid on the swim platform/motor bracket. Well it is most likely a leaking cylinder end seal for the piston. I have the same thing on my 2520XL, grr :evil:
What I am going to do is finish out this season, and change the seals during winter lay-up. I started this season filling and bleeding the system with the Seastar fluid, yes I mixed them, and then about a week ago did it again just to maintain the steering integrity. When I change the seals, I will flush both helms and the lines and refill with the Seastar fluid.

Some here may have a different idea, but I have had these systems on two boats before this, and on our harbormaster boats, so I feel confident that I am on the right track.

BTW the seals are relatively easy to change with the Seastar tool and the bleeding proceedures are well spelled out in the Seastar directions. Just remember, air always rises to th top, so do the longest run first.

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks very much. I am going to do the same thing... finish out the season by just adding fluid and address the leak when the boat is pulled for the winter lay-up. I am on a mooring, so I don't want to tackle the seal replacement while the boat is in the water. Glad to hear I can just add the clear stuff.
 
No need for expen$ive Seastar fluid, IMHO.

FWIW My brother and I have been using Walmart 'SuperTech' power trim/tilt fluid in our Seastar helms and OBs hydraulic systems (8 of them alone just in my family) for the past 8 or more years ... with ZERO issues or complaints. I've also turned other friends onto it and no complaints there either. To be technical, there is one suffix letter 'difference' between what Teleflex recommends and what the Walmart fluid is made to ... but so far, none of our systems can detect that difference. I'm OK with it :) .

Also, leaking as seen Frank is from the end seals. You don't need the expen$ive T'flex seals either, just go to a good hydraulics shop and get them. They might also have the correct spanner wrench you'll need. We have one we pass around in the family, but we don't let it out of our sight ;) !
 
Do the seals in the water!!

The job takes less than 30 min, I did mine last year. You'll be happy you did.

I waited for a little while a played the top off the fluid game for about a month. When I finally replaced the seals, I wished I had done it earlier.

Jamestown Distributors has the kit with tool for less than $90 not bad IMO.

Clean up is easier in the water too. :wink:
 
Bryan 2530":26okem1r said:
Do the seals in the water!!

The job takes less than 30 min, I did mine last year. You'll be happy you did.

I waited for a little while a played the top off the fluid game for about a month. When I finally replaced the seals, I wished I had done it earlier.

Jamestown Distributors has the kit with tool for less than $90 not bad IMO.

Clean up is easier in the water too. :wink:
I agree with Bryan. It's very easy to do in the water, especially if you have the swim platform. I bought the kit and did mine a couple of years ago. Just be careful not to score the cylinder and use that little nipple they give you in the kit to screw on the threaded end of the ram to keep the threads from damaging the seals when you slide the new ends on.
 
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