thanks guys , should I get the windlass or not

Classic Parker Boat Forum

Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
YES, definitely. I believe this to be a must have item. Without it you will anchor less and it will affect the quality of your fishing.

I also agree with Peregrine, he is dead on. I had the Ideal installed on my 2520 Parker a year and a half ago and I am very, very happy with it. As a matter of fact I don’t get to pull the anchor very often. My fishing buddy’s like it so much, when there on the boat they won’t let me use it. They honestly love to pull the anchor. It is very fast and although it’s very expensive, worth every penny.

A windless is by far one of the best additions I’ve done on my Parker.

Good luck in your decision.
 
Speaking of free fall windlass's, specifically the pro fish by Lewmar, how does it actually cause the anchor to fall? Is there a special fitting on the bow eye that secures the anchor? I don't get it. Do I have to go forward and "release" something ?
 
I have the factory bow pulpit and high rail.I bought a Delta 14 lb anchor,it is counterbalanced and will fall from the pulpit once you release it.Works like a charm,today I wrecked fished and now I don't get upset if I miss and have to re-anchor.
 
Scoops:

If you use a 22 lb Delta (the size for your boat) like the one on mine, you will need to install a chain chock between the windlass and anchor. When you want to deploy the anchor, the pin needs to be pulled from the chain chock. At that point the anchor will still not freefall. The anchor will still be laying flat on the pulpit. While you (or your crew) is forward pulling the chock pin, reach down and pull the chain from around the gypsy and let the anchor move forward about a foot or so until it hangs slightly over the roller towards the water. Then put the chain back around the gypsy.

SAFETY ISSUE: Make sure the windlass breaker is popped while the pin is pulled and fingers are reaching around and pulling the chain off the gypsy.

After the anchor is free of the chock and hanging forward over the roller, then engage the windlass CB and freefall it if you have a windlass with that option.

I have the Lewmar 700 without freefall. When I take the chain from around the gypsy, I am actually anchoring at that point and paying out the anchor manually through my hands/fingers. The windlass CB stays disengaged until I am ready for recovery.

The reason I prefer the none freefall windlass is because about half the time the anchor line does not pay out without a slight snag here and there which is easily rectified while I'm standing there paying out line manually. Since I frequently anchor in deep water (100+) it would be a mess about half the time if I tried to deploy the anchor from the helm. Not to mention that I would miss the intended anchoring spot.

FYI: Windline does make and anchor roller that fits our pulpit that allows the Delta anchor to stow and hang in the forward position so it will freefall on its own.

jim
 
grouperjim":11czb0nl said:
Scoops:
FYI: Windline does make and anchor roller that fits our pulpit that allows the Delta anchor to stow and hang in the forward position so it will freefall on its own. jim

That would seem to make more sense as having to go forward to do anything kinda defeats one of the purposes of having a freefall anchor.

I don't have a chain chock on mine currently. When i want to deploy, I just flip the breaker, flip the switch to "down" and off she goes. It just takes sooooo long to release 50 ft of line.

I guess it's all relative. Remember when our PC's didn't have high speed access? When we connected, we had to wait for that ///eeeeee, ahhhhhh, bzzzzzz, thenit took forever to download a page> ...and yet we all thought it was wonderful? Now look at us. If a site doesn't download in a nano second, we're pissed.

Thanks for the info.
 
Yes that the same pulpit.
If you read the instruction manual for the windlass you are not supposed to anchor without tying off to the cleat,do not stay anchored letting the rode stay in the windlass alone you can damage the gears.
I use 2 bungie chords to secure the anchor while not in use,I leave the anchor in free fall while fishing a wreck so I can drop back if so desired.
 
Lucky John":2c9zbdan said:
Yes that the same pulpit.
If you read the instruction manual for the windlass you are not supposed to anchor without tying off to the cleat,do not stay anchored letting the rode stay in the windlass alone you can damage the gears.
I use 2 bungie chords to secure the anchor while not in use,I leave the anchor in free fall while fishing a wreck so I can drop back if so desired.

I'm a poster child for that screw-up. I had to replace a Lewmar 500 last year because I never tied off. I just let the rode out until anchored, then took up 1' under load to set the clutch. Finally blew out the clutch and had to order a new one to the tune of $265. So, I have a new Lewmar 500 on the deck, and a fully repaired one on the shelf. A costly mistake.
 
I remember those threads.Someone else told me about it as well.A buddy of mine never tied his off,and nothing ever happened to his,but I read the instructions and will follow them.
I also learned that when I fish is 80' of water I have to pull back the slack in the anchor locker half way up because with 200' of line out and hole for windlass is not direct center of anchor locker it can get jammed up.
 
Back
Top