Trailer re-build help

[jonas grumby]

I am looking at rebuilding my Road King aluminum trailer in the spring. The bunk supports and hardware are cadmium plated and rotting away. I do a thorough job of rinsing after every splash but after 7 years and LOTS of splashing, the time has come. Due to my family's dynamic schedule, this job may take me a few weeks of piece-meal work so I am looking to do the work without unloading the (1801) boat.

1. Has anyone in Classic Parker Land ever performed this work w/ the boat on the trailer?

2. Where is a good place to purchase new springs, s/s hardware and bunk supports?

Thanks in advance for any help,
Jonas

 

[Grutus]

I hope Classic Parker members answer your questions because I look at my trailer in my front yard on wonder how I could make some upgrades while keeping the boat on the trailer. :roll:
Grutus

 

[Megabyte]

Best place that I know is Eastern Marine in Newark, DE.
Close enough that you could take a ride and shop, or call for advice and place your order online.

http://www.easternmarine.com

As for doing the work with the boat on the trailer...
While it could probably be done, it wouldn't be ideal.

 

[warthog5]

What Kev said has a lot of merit. Trailer parts are heavy and thus cost a bunch to ship.

Take a pix of the springs. There are different styles. Then you need a measurment Center of eye to center of eye, unless it's a slipper spring?

Then count the leafs.

This is how you get the right parts.

A cutting torch is the #1 tool for trailer work. Sometimes it is easier to snap the bolt off by tightening it, then trying to loosen it.

The #2 tool is a Die grinder with a cutoff wheel and a compressor big enough to push it.

I've actually changed torsion bar axles on a dual axle trailer and never jacked the trailer up.


You do it with low profile ramps made of 2X10's. Just stacked and staggered. Trailer hooked to truck and pull trailer up on ramps with ramps in front of forward axle. As soon as it's on.....The rear axle wheels will be off the ground. Then put ramps behind rear axle wheels and back trailer up on ramps. Front axle wheels will be off the ground.

Another guy and I changed both axles like this in 1hr 15min. No brakes were involved.

Can't do it that way with leaf springs and center hanger setup.

 

[TomS]

Bought a bunch of trailer refurb parts this spring from etrailer.com. Four new wheels/tires, hubs, disc rotors, LED lights, etc. Prices in line with Eastern Marine but FREE shipping on orders > $150.

-- Tom

 

[SamR]

The bunks will be the tricky part as you have to suspend the boat off of the trailer completely. I've done it with my 1800 but it took borrowing a pair of jack stands for the stern. Pretty simple on a flat surface. Remove all straps but for the winch. With the trailer off of the vehicle, drop the tongue all the way down. Block up the stern with a jack stand on each side. Raise the tongue up as high as it will go (the trailer should start to drop out from under the stern). Block up the keep tightly near the bow on a flat section. Drop the tongue until the bow pulls away from the roller.

I had no choice but to do the job in the driveway because I had broken hardware and it was unsafe to move. No way of getting a flatbed in either so it was all up to me.

While you are working on the bunks, you might want to consider these.
http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?i=73391
I love mine and they do not hold water the way carpet does. Might help you get a bit more time out of the hardware.

 

[warthog5]

Do you have a friend.....Or Friend of a friend that has waterfront and dock?

Launch the boat and tie it up for a day or two.

 

[ceblizzard]

The last two Parkers that I owned were on trailers. A 23SE and a 2520XL. Both trailer were Load Rite roller trailers. Wheel/brake maintenance and inspections were no problem with the boats on the trailers. When it came to replacing mounting hardware, I would have all of the bolts and hardware purchased ahead of time. I would pick a couple of nice days and launch the boat and leave them in a local marina. A couple of days in the water is not expensive at all. I think Somers Cove Marina charged me $20. I'd take the trailer home and get busy replacing the necessary hardware. When I went back to load the boats, I would take some tools in the event I needed to make some minor adjustments. So much easier than trying to support the boat on stands and then laying on your back pulling wrenches. My trailers would continue to look like new. I'd get most of my stuff from Eastern Marine. If I was traveling in the area I would stop in the store. That place has some serious inventory of parts.

Charlie
Eden, Maryland