Trim Tab Question: 24X9 vs 24X12

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esfishdoc

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I've decided to go ahead and go with the Bennet tabs and I'm wondering which would be optimal for my boat. Taking cost out of the equation is there any reason not to go all the way to the 24X12's? Is anyone using these on their 2520?

Also... who has the best prices on Bennet systems?

As aways, thanks in advance for the help.

Richard
 
I use the 24" x 9" Bennett tabs and probably 'sold' over a dozen members here on that size, which is waht Tabman of Bennett recommended for my mod-V 2520 with 225hp on a OB bracket & full transom.

If I needed to go bigger ... honestly ... ?? I wudda gone with 30"x9" tabs. As when sizing tabs, it is width ACROSS the hull you want ... more performance for less drag.
 
I put the 9 x 24 after talking to Kevin and Dale. I also talked to Tom at Bennett and he told me I could put the 12's on too but didn't think it was needed. By the way 12 x 24 didn't cost that much more. I searched on line for the best price and then went to West Marine where they matched the price, I paid $545.00. :D

After the first trip out I couldn't believe tabs could work that way and make such a huge difference. After you see the 9 x 24 work, you will realize the Lenco's were basically useless.

Happy Tabin'
Anthony
 
esfishdoc":2ukdxw6q said:
who has the best prices on Bennet systems?

Give Jim Maier (Yachtjim) a call at BOE Marine and see what he can get them for.
Tell him that I sent you from ClassicParker. :)

BOE Marine
326 First Street, Suite 14
Annapolis, Md. 21403
866-735-5926
443-458-4258 (fax)
 
I have 12 x 24 on a 23 Parker. Love 'em. IMO, bigger tabs = a little extra (almost free) planing surface, and super quick response.

Thumbs up on the 30 x 9.
 
I listened to all comments then shopped Ebay for a couple of weeks. I ended up buying a set of Bennett 9X24’s that were new old stock for $220. They did not come in the original box but they did come in the original packing. All the instructions were included. I was able to install them in a day. Combined with the new Navman fuel meter we were noticing great improvements in performance until I blew a line at the right actuator. No big deal I just did not get the coupling tight enough on installation. We brought her home and bedded her down for the winter and will try again in the spring. One plus is the bilges are sparkling clean after I cleaned up all the red juice. My next mod is hydraulic steering (hopefully I can avoid a mess) then an autopilot. NHR
 
As of today after measuring and looking at the transom and current tabs I think I'll go with the flow and get the 24X9 from BOE.

Richard
 
See my reply in the "Power" forum.

I just installed 12x24 tabs on my 2320 and am very pleased with the result.

Good luck
 
Members, I currently have the stock "recessed" Lenco tabs on my 25SE. I've felt that the boat is under tabbed so I just installed one of those Cobra fins on the motor following a post I saw somewhere here from a fellow that had them on twin motors on his 25 pilot house and liked them. I haven't yet tried the new addition yet as it was a winter project but if it turns out to be dissappointing, how would I convert to the Bennett's that I hear are so good. The tabs on my CC are recessed. Would I have to build up that area under the boat where the recess is first or could I leave it and install the Bennett's directly to the transom? Seems to me you would have to make the bottom of the boat completely flat before attempting to install other type of tabs. Thanks in advance for anyone's input.
 
Following Joshdad's lead, I installed the Bennett 24w X 12 tabs on my 2320 on Wednesday. I kept the original Lenco electric actuators and upper and lower hinges. I felt the Lenco hinges were a little beefier and fit more snugly so I used them.

Today, I put the boat in the water to test the new tabs. All I can say is WOW. I wish I had put them on a lot sooner. To quote Fishfactory, they are essentially "free hull planing surface." Even with the tabs not deployed, they still mitigate the sensation of "squatyness" or the feeling of stern heavyness associated with any DV boat that has an enigine on a bracket.

General handling to incude cornering were greatly improved. Trying not to overstate, but IT WAS LIKE DRIVING A DIFFERENT BOAT. I liked my boat the way it was, but now it is much more fun to drive because these larger tabs allow you to adjust the boat to any number of sea conditions. Planing at 15 mph getting 2.5 mpg in really nasty stuff is outstanding. Couldn't do that before.

I have to note that after driving the boat with these tabs, I can now understand why Parker does not install them on their boats at the factory. You really have to know what you are doing or else you can put the boat in a situation that could lead to loss of control. These things are not "sailor proof" and I am sure that for liability reasons, Parker sticks with the 12 x 12s which are fairly benign.

My only recommendation would be that if you don't have an LED tab indicator switch, then get one. Trying to adjust tabs this responsive by "seat of the pants" feeling can be a little unnerving. Also, having access to a right angle drill is essential for the 45 degree down angle for the hole for the actuator wires. Total cost: $255 for the Bennett blades/hinge assy.

jim


If anyone wants the Lenco 12x12 blades/piano hinges, let me know and they are yours. Just send me a postage paid box. Otherwise they will probably make great ashtrays for when my parents come to visit. Can you believe that people still smoke? Especially people their age.
 

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Nice job... those tabs look great!

Love the photo view of that "salad shooter" on the motor too. :)
 
Love that shiney gelcoat and Yamaha blue paint!

With that big ole' "Salad Shooter", you can pick up motor at least to second hole, get rid of the big wake and add couple mph top end. It's really easy on a bracket boat and those long slots on Yamaha mount.
 
Oooooops.

The Admiral convinced me to launch on a weekend so she could experience the new and improved tabs. She knows that I despise the weekend boat ramp seen. But oh well.

After several hours of cruising around, she thought the tabs were amazing. We were a couple miles out enroute to the ramp. Mission success I thought, didn't run over any jet skis, didn't hit any floating debris. I thought, go home rinse and dry, put her to bed.

However, I was cruising in some small chop with the tabs down a couple bars each. Suddenly, coming at me in the narrow channel at full throttle was a 56 sedan/fly bridge. He was throwing at least a 5-6 foot wake. I had encounters like this before....just drop back to idle and turn into the wake. The bow has always risen faster than the wake and over we go with maybe a little splash at the pulpit.

So, the Admiral had her front window wide open, mine was closed because the previous chop was from the starboard side, we turned at idle into the wake. MAN OH MAN, I had forgotten to raise the tabs. I know Richard had bragged in an earlier post that he could clean his anchor, well I cleaned the anchor, the windlass, the Admiral, and the roof. The bow stuffed and the wake came right in the the Admiral's front window hitting her in the chest/face, and half filled the baby seat. Luckily, I was holding the baby.

She directed a few choice words towards the flybridge..... I never did tell her that I forgot to raise the tabs.

Lessons learned:
1. Weekend boating is to be avoided
2. These tabs are awesome even at slow speeds
3. Withholding information is not the same as lying
4. See number 1.

jim
 
Another advantage of big tabs, you can hold a wet teeshirt contest in the cabin. :D
 
grouperjim":3rtfvvng said:
She directed a few choice words towards the flybridge..... I never did tell her that I forgot to raise the tabs.

Lessons learned:
1. Weekend boating is to be avoided
2. These tabs are awesome even at slow speeds
3. Withholding information is not the same as lying
4. See number 1.

Jim:

I have the Bennett TRIM INDICATORS and love them! With them and my fuel computer, I can dial-in the best ride and/or best fuel efficiency, and the 'numbers' are pretty darn repeatable, which shows that each hull has a running attitude that is optimal.

I have Bennett Auto Tab Retractors equipped on my boat. I am removing them as I use the indicators. Also, they auto-retract anytime the ignition is turned OFF and my fishing style is 'run & gun' so it gets to be a pain in the arse to me. Actually, they don't do anything, but I hear them cycling ... and I dunnoh, I'm not really getting any benefit out of it.

Yours if you want it. PM if so. But also, if YOU don't want it - report back here so someone else can have them. Free too :) !
 
Thanks for the offer Dale, but my boat currently has the Lenco position indicator/auto retract feature.

I know what you mean about the auto retract being a pain. I think whoever designed it was thinking about the guy who trailers his boat and doesn't want to damage the tab on a bunk when recovering the boat.



Rangerdog:

I moved the Lenco actuators inboard a few inches to center on the tab. The outboard edge of the new tab blades are in the same location as the old 12x12s, and extend inboard the extra 12 inches.

jim
 
grouperjim":168c0n4r said:
... auto retract feature.

I think whoever designed it was thinking about the guy who trailers his boat and doesn't want to damage the tab on a bunk when recovering the boat.
And you would be 100% correct, as per Tom McGow of Bennett Trim Tabs anyway.
 
grouperjim":1vxvgx0o said:
Thanks for the offer Dale, but my boat currently has the Lenco position indicator/auto retract feature.

I know what you mean about the auto retract being a pain. I think whoever designed it was thinking about the guy who trailers his boat and doesn't want to damage the tab on a bunk when recovering the boat.



Rangerdog:

I moved the Lenco actuators inboard a few inches to center on the tab. The outboard edge of the new tab blades are in the same location as the old 12x12s, and extend inboard the extra 12 inches.

jim

Well you did a great job restoring the gelcoat where the actuators were originally located. That's why I asked. Can't tell from the photos that there ever was another hole in your transom.
 
Thanks. Gelcoat work is really very easy to do and is nothing to be apprehensive about.

When I bought my very first boat, it was 3 years old and had some damage to the gelcoat from hitting oyster bars etc. I took it to the local marina for repair and ended up paying $400 to have some yahoo sand the the damage out which left me with paper thin gelcoat. You could literally see the raw fiberglass underneath. I wasn't happy and they would not give me back my money.

Later I went down to a local commercial boatyard and met a Russian guy covered with dust from the days work. He looked like he knew what he was doing so I asked him how much to re-repair my boat. He laughed at me and in a heavy accent said "you actually paid someone to do that."

He took pity on me and said he would not charge me a thing. I looked at him with a puzzled face.

I followed him over to a customers boat. He proceeded to hit the side of the boat with a hammer to remove a chunk of gelcoat. I gasped at first. Then he said gelcoat work is so easy, I can't take your money, but I will show you how to do it.

To make a long story short, we repaired the self-inflicted ding. The repair was truly undetectable.

To make my repairs I had everything but the high speed buffer. He had a very expensive one, and handed to me and said bring it back when you are done. I said don't you want some sort of security to make sure you get your buffer back. You have an honest face he said, now get out of here and fix that boat.

I returned the buffer along with a 12 pack of Titleist ballata golf balls. He liked golf, I've saved thousands of $$ over the years since then.

jim

"give a man a fish and he eats for a day, teach a man how to fish and he eats for a lifetime"
 
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