Upkeep-1998 Johnson 115
- Thread starter rtm111
- Start date
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One of the best things you can do for any 2-stroke outboard is to perform a good decarbon cleaning, and then use a maintenance decarbon agent load in your fuel at every fill-up.
Ringfree is the agent that I use, but you could also use Quickclean, StarTron, or Seafoam. I'm pretty sure that OMC/Bombardier even has a 'signature' decarbon product that they recommend.
Decarbon agents work to keep carbon deposits from gumming up your rings which can cause cyl bore damage and eventual catastrophic failure.
It's good insurance.
Ringfree is the agent that I use, but you could also use Quickclean, StarTron, or Seafoam. I'm pretty sure that OMC/Bombardier even has a 'signature' decarbon product that they recommend.
Decarbon agents work to keep carbon deposits from gumming up your rings which can cause cyl bore damage and eventual catastrophic failure.
It's good insurance.
DaleH
FOUNDER of Classic Parker Forum
1st - prop her right. Find out if that is a 5500 or 6000 max RPM motor and will 2 guys, normal gear and 2/3rds of a tank, make sure she runs 200 to no-more-than 300 RPMs off max WOT in the Spring. She'll lose a few hundred RPMs in the heat and humidity of the Summer.rtm111":2ueelj59 said:
2nd - Decarb her every 50-60 hours as Captr Kevin opines. On that motor I'd forget about adding something every fill and would do the Dunk-method of decarbing using Seafoam in a small fuel tank, click here for 'how to'.
3rd - Thermostats & full water pump service every 2-3 seasons or every 200-300 engine hours. More if in sandy waters, longer if not. Impellers can last much longer, but the trick is getting all of the bolts in the lower unit apart.
In my experience you're wasting your time flushing your OB. Most hoses can't builld up enough pressure to wash off any deposits and you'd need to have the hose on for > 30-minutes to have any effect. These numbers are from US Military testing of OBs. My bros and I have been running OBs for 40 years now and have had over (10) running each season for the past (10) years ... and we've never flushed an OB. Also have never had to rebuild a carb either.
Keep it cleaned and lubricated and she'll treat you well!
Burtona
Well-known member
And change lower unit oil at least once each year and pull prop and grease shaft with good water resistant grease.
DaleH
FOUNDER of Classic Parker Forum
Good points! I shudda added that, but I figured that, along with new properly gapped spark plugs and a new Racor fuel-water separator cartridge would already be getting done.Burtona":zmoyx9vx said:
The Ocean Pro on my Dusky had a pretty slick flush port on the lower portion of the rear cowling. It is the black port right below the cowl lock handle in the photo below.
That port was designed to flush the entire cooling system (motor 'off'), and was very efficient at doing so.
When I would return from fishing, I'd give the boat a bath in the driveway, then hook up the flush hose and let it run as I put away my gear. That would give it a good 20 to 30 minutes of flush time which should be plenty of time to flush any salt out of the cooling system.
Those Ocean Pros were one of the best V4 motors ever made. :wink:
That port was designed to flush the entire cooling system (motor 'off'), and was very efficient at doing so.
When I would return from fishing, I'd give the boat a bath in the driveway, then hook up the flush hose and let it run as I put away my gear. That would give it a good 20 to 30 minutes of flush time which should be plenty of time to flush any salt out of the cooling system.
Those Ocean Pros were one of the best V4 motors ever made. :wink: