Windlass Install and Type?

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John_Madison CT

Well-known member
Feb 17, 2006
Reaction score
Old Saybrook, CT
Anyone add a windlass to their Parker Sportcabin? If so, which one do you recommend and was it relatively simple to do?

I definetly want a free fall windlass for the type of anchoring I do.



I don't have a windlass but I can send you the 2 recent Powerboat Report tests on them, both horizontal and vertical styles. PM with your mailing address.

After having major hand surgery last year, I considered adding a windlass to my boat, but decided not to due to the expense. (I'd rather save the money for a set of outriggers :D )
I continue to retreive my anchor by hand, but I have added a home-built anchor ball to my equipment 'trick bag', just in case I have the pull the hook in rough weather.

Pretty simple to make, and they work!

I have a windlass (joy, rapture) that was factory installed. It is not a free fall, but I am happy with that - I have always let the anchor down in a controlled fashion to enhance setting success. If you are a frequent wreck fisher then I understand your need for a free fall model. My anchor habits are less stringent on being positioned accurately.

The windlass is a Horizon 500 and has had a blemish free performance record. It is very noisy in the cabin and will wake anyone crashed out in the berths. The windlass truly turns the process into a one person operation.


I utilize a 24 lb. Delta Fastset on the windlass and keep a Danforth in the cabin as a spare. I also have a small wreck anchor on another line that I use by hand, plus a sea anchor for controlled drifts or deep emergencies. I am a big believer in having appropriate ground tackle.

There is a page that says basically the same stuff on my website, which is located at

I would be happy to provide some more pics or measurements to you but I am not sure what you are looking for or how they would translate to another, larger model Parker.

Sprint Horizon 600 or the 1000G would work very well for that style boat. You should also consider switches at the dash and a switch set at the anchor for cutting kelp or needing to be up there for anything without having to go back to the helm and the dash switch.

Good luck,

I'm planning on installing a Lewmar Sprint 600 on the 1990 25' SportCabin I just bought. I had a Sprint 600 on my 28' Blackfin, and it was fantastic. If you get one of these, be VERY careful when running the line through the windlass the first time. You've got to make sure that it goes in straight, with no twists. If it goes in twisted, it comes out twisted, and then it won't come back in again. You won't know about this, however, until you find yourself in rough seas when you are alone. You will find yourself running up to the bow and untwisting twists every ten feet or so, and replacng a blown fuse each time. Don't ask me why I know this... :shock:
The EZ Anchor Puller is not purty or inexpensive but mine has been absolutely trouble free for the 3 years I've owned it and I do a lot of anchoring while bottom fishing for Grouper in the Gulf. We have to anchor pretty accurately for this type of fishing and this puller gets the anchor down plenty fast. Another good thing about this puller is that it does not require the anchor line to be cleated off while on anchor. The only time I have to go to the bow is to replace my break-away after getting the anchor hung in the rocks. I keep 600' of 7/16 in the anchor locker with chain connected to a big danforth that's chocked on the bow next to the puller just for backup.


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I too do alot of wrieck and reef fishing the accurate controled drop is important for me.

So how do you get a acurate drop while waiting for the anchor to power down as the wind is blowing you off your lineup to be in the right spot?
In order to go verticle you will need a fair amount of room below deck for the line to drop properly and the install of the motor. I am not sure of the space on a parker but if it is anything like the Maycraft you probably will have to go with a horizontal.

I have a QUICK GENIUS 1000-7 WINDLASS that hasnt given me any trouble yet (although I have only had the boat since last 4th of july). It was recommended by BOE Marine and offers a 3 year warranty. It isnt a free fall. However, most of my anchoring situations are in less than 50' of water. I had it installed almost solely so I could position the boat properly amongst a crowd for swimming since my family is little help (it will free fall with a very simple and quick loosening of the the clutch--but you have to be at the windlass to do so--shouldnt be a problem unless I am fishing alone). If I was offshore or gulf fishing in deeper water a free fall would be a must. When I do some wreck fishing I most likely will use a grapple and not my anchor to hook up so my windlass wouldnt be used.

I will say that the most important part of having your windlass installed is making sure you have the thing wired properly. My dealer originally wired my windlass through a 30amp breaker which popped every time I used it. I had to have it rewired to ensure it could handle the 60amp draw required. It was wired with a 2 guage wire to and from the battery switch.

Here is what I have... (hmm. new ones have an 85 amp current absorption)
Thanks guys. All your posts are a great help. I will probably need a freefall windlass as sometimes I anchor over small pieces of structure with a strong current, so waiting for the nonfreefall method to drop the hook would take way too much time.
Freefalls and retrieves faster than can.


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I replaced a very very slow vertical windlass with this Horizontal unit made by Maxwell. It was highly rated in Powerboat Reports and I am very happy with it thus far. Fairly simple install since I already had the right sized wiring from the old windlass.
Good Luck


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