Window frame oxidation

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M

mx beach guy

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Edited to add pictures ...

Is anyone else getting oxidation on the interior of their window frames? New Parker, purchased in January,2007. The oxidation is continuing and I'm afraid this is could be an ongoing problem.

Parker has been contacted about this & they told me to use the T9 Boeshield. Parker's reply was this is a normal occurence when bending anodized aluminum. Any thoughts?
 

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Yes, this is also slightly evident on my 2005 2520SL. It polishes out for the most part.

And tell parker, that if the material is anodized after it's bent they won't have this problem. Yes, bending after anodizing will damage the anodizing.
 
"Heres Parkers response"

Mr.------------

We looked at the pictures that you sent and here is what
we think is causing theses areas to become infected.

The alumium frames are anodized and when bent around jigs to form the corners the anodizing becomes stressed.This is a normal occurance when bending anodizing aluminum.Because the boat was sitting for a period without going through normal useage cycles,(ie.opening,closing,air flow ,cleaning),this allowed windows especially but also the door lock to
become affected.



If you use some soft scrub on theses areas it will cleanthem up without any damage.You can treat the frames and any other metal components(rod holder,bow rail etc.)A very good product to treat theses areas is Boeshield T-9.If we can help you with anything else please contact us.

Thank You


I have teated this areas an can not get it to stop.So what do you guys think?
 
Is it this bad? Mines beaking out now in the unbent areas?Its kinda getting to be an EYE sore
 
Sorry to see that. Sounds like a teenager with acne. Don't have anything like that yet on my 2006 2320 (about 100 hrs).

The only thing I do to the window frame after use is wipe down with clean damp boat towel. I make sure everything is dry inside the PH before buttoning it up. I also leave an industrial sized container of Damp Rid in the PH. Before I put the cover on, I also make sure the port and starboard screened portal windows open for air flow. I have no idea if these measures have prevented oxidation...we shall see.

jim
 
I have a 2003 2530, new to me and it has the same issues althought not as bad. I also have pitting on the interior parts that are not bent. I have tried Nevrdull which does not work, my next try was going to be Flitz but I think that is a little harsh. Did the soft scrub work? My plan was to clean them up as best I could then wax with Fleetwax. I am tempted to try Zoopseal which is an aluminum rim prodect for hot rodders. Any other suggestions appreciated.
 
I am new to this forum and own a 2005 2520XL which I bought new in 2005.

I have the same problem with the windows pitting and tried a product called allumaguard but it slowed it down but still continues.

I am surprised that it is the inside of the frames both the bends and the straight parts that are affected. The outside seem to hold up much better and I at least rinse the boat with fresh water after every use.

I really like the parker boat but the windows leave a bit to be desired with this problem of pitting.

If anyone has an idea of how to protect them please let me know.
 
I've had the same problem with my 2520 windows as well. The oxidation showed up after the second winter layup. I tried Flitz and a buffer, but couldn't get rid of the pits. I began using Boeshield and the pitting has not really progressed much, but the affected areas are still a problem. I've written it off as something I just have to accept at this point. I guess now that it's there, I'm not getting rid of it. Had I been more aggressive with preventative maintenance, maybe I could have prevented it.
 
I tried the alumaguard with the same results. I was thinking about taking the forward windows apart in a few years and having them powdercoated.
Thoughts??
 
I have the older (black) windows, so I have no suggestion other than to contact the window supplier for their thoughts on how to clean and protect the frames.
I believe it was reported here awhile back that the window supplier that Parker uses is Diamond Seaglaze.
http://www.diamondseaglaze.com/

I do think that the newer windows are superior to the older ones like I have.
 
I am having a similar problem with the windows, lock and chair frames on my 2004 2520XL. This is the first year I have noticed this. I believe it is related to increased humidity in the boat while sitting in the slip. I have been considering installing one of those solar fans (e.g. Nicro brand) that are used in hatches (and elsewhere) to provide circulation. Does anyone have experience with these, if so, how well do they work? Where would you place them in a pilot house boat? The front hatch? Pilot house roof? Both?

http://www.marinco.com/scpt/brandDrill. ... creational
 

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drvan":3o7sr0k3 said:
I am having a similar problem with the windows, lock and chair frames on my 2004 2520XL. This is the first year I have noticed this. I believe it is related to increased humidity in the boat while sitting in the slip. I have been considering installing one of those solar fans (e.g. Nicro brand) that are used in hatches (and elsewhere) to provide circulation. Does anyone have experience with these, if so, how well do they work? Where would you place them in a pilot house boat? The front hatch? Pilot house roof? Both?

http://www.marinco.com/scpt/brandDrill. ... creational
Click to expand...

I would like to put one of those solar fans in the middle of my Bomar hatch.
Two things are stopping me... free time, and making that first cut in the middle of the hatch. :shock:
 
I've had the Nicro solar vents on a couple of boats. Put one in a Bomar hatch & another in the deck. They worked quite well. One of the boats had it on for 5 years and it ran most of the time and never leaked.

I liked the stainless one better than the one pictured above. I did get the plate to put in the hole when I removed the fan in the winter when I slept aboard.

I did call Nicro yesterday and, unfortunately, they no longer loan the hole saws for the cut outs. And to charge the battery, the solar panel has to be directly in the sun light. Will not suit me now under cover in the marina.

I've heard there is a solar vent that can run and charge in reflected light so may look for that next even though I'd prefer the Nicro. I also like the:

http://www.air-onlyventilators.com/main/?page=ventDsd

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Pete
 
Thanks for the info Pete! My slip is in full sun, so the SS Nicro may be the ticket for me.

N20503S-CMYK-99.jpg


Maybe my dealer has a 4" hole saw... Hmmmmmmmmm...
Could be a to-do item during winter lay-up. :wink:
 
I have the same problem with my window frames on my 2004 2520XL. I have used Woodys Wax and it has curbed the pitting and helped restore the frame some what, but it is expensive
 
Have the same problem on my 2006 2520sc. Took a scouring pad to it and 4X steel wool. Got enough of the surface pitting off to where it feels relatively smooth to the touch, but the remnants of the pitting are still visible. I then applied a product called Corrosion Block to all aluminum in the PH and I am happy with the result. Not like brand new but it looks 100% better.

Good Luck
 
I don't have the problem...but I use a full cover on the boat, and keep the port windows open to allow fresh air to blow in. In the winter, I strip the boat, leave the cabin open and toss on the tarp. It breathes. So...all year long, I ensure that some air is going through the cabin.
 
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