With Static Flush, Do you get water out of your 'tell-tale' ?

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Andy

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I'm referring to a 2014 300 HP Yamaha UCA, And doing the 'static-flush'... I used to get water out of the 'tell-tale' / pee hole when I flushed the engine (I flush after every use, and flush for 20-30 minutes). Water did not automatically come out, just when I would tilt the engine up or down to a certain height. I just had the water pump impeller replaced (of course, dropped the lower unit) and now, when flushing, there is very little water coming out of the 'tell-tale'; just an occasional dribble. I know there are 4 things to line up when reinstalling the lower unit (the main shaft, the 'shifter' shaft, and two nylon nipples. Could one of the nipples not being lined up/connected, or broken, be causing this? If so, would it have caused damage inside the lower-unit to have run the engine. I ran for 5 hours yesterday..... There is the normal strong flow of water from the tell-tale when the engine is running....
 
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Make sure the telltale tube is clear. Little spiders love it in there. I have to blow out mine almost every year due to spiders. give that a try first before tearing into anything.
 
I'm referring to a 2014 300 HP Yamaha UCA, And doing the 'static-flush'... I used to get water out of the 'tell-tale' / pee hole when I flushed the engine (I flush after every use, and flush for 20-30 minutes). Water did not automatically come out, just when I would tilt the engine up or down to a certain height. I just had the water pump impeller replaced (of course, dropped the lower unit) and now, when flushing, there is very little water coming out of the 'tell-tale'; just an occasional dribble. I know there are 4 things to line up when reinstalling the lower unit (the main shaft, the 'shifter' shaft, and two nylon nipples. Could one of the nipples not being lined up/connected, or broken, be causing this? If so, would it have caused damage inside the lower-unit to have run the engine. I ran for 5 hours yesterday..... There is the normal strong flow of water from the tell-tale when the engine is running....

I know my old Yamaha F225 needed decent h20 pressure in the hose to flush. When I was the only boat using water at my dock it “peed” and when anyone else had a hose running in addition to mine it didn’t.

Are you using the same water supply to flush as before?
 
I know my old Yamaha F225 needed decent h20 pressure in the hose to flush. When I was the only boat using water at my dock it “peed” and when anyone else had a hose running in addition to mine it didn’t.

Are you using the same water supply to flush as before?
Thank you! Yes it is the same water and same pressure for the past 3+ years. I have well-water supplied to all three of my docks, but I do not use the well-water to flush nor to wash the boat. I ran a separate water supply line from the house (public water system) to flush the engine and to wash the boat. The well-water was lower pressure, and has some emulsified iron.
Thank you... I'll check that.
 
Muffs are sensitive to water pressure and needs to be properly attached for the best and water.supply. Many buy a tub from a farm supply store
Can't use a tub nor muffs. The boat is kept on a boat-lift, and the best I understand, you can't use muffs on a Yamaha 300.. I use the flush-hose on the starboard side of the engine....
 
I agree with Sarah F. My tube was plugged up with mud from a wasp one time. Hope your fix is that easy.
On my 150 I stopped using the muffs if it’s on the trailer. A dealer told me they use the hose fitting for all of their work if it’s just idling. My muffs could not produce a reliable pee.
 
I agree with Sarah F. My tube was plugged up with mud from a wasp one time. Hope your fix is that easy.
On my 150 I stopped using the muffs if it’s on the trailer. A dealer told me they use the hose fitting for all of their work if it’s just idling. My muffs could not produce a reliable pee.
Thank you all once more; I was getting a couple momentary dribbles from the tell-tale, but I will still run a wire up there to check to see if it could be blocked. We have a lot of wasp, bees and spiders around, and I just finished waxing the boat and motor, so I'll also check for wax.
 
I agree with Sarah F. My tube was plugged up with mud from a wasp one time. Hope your fix is that easy.
On my 150 I stopped using the muffs if it’s on the trailer. A dealer told me they use the hose fitting for all of their work if it’s just idling. My muffs could not produce a reliable pee.
Thank you all for the great suggestions! Just so I'm clear; I have never run this engine with just water being supplied from the flush unit. A couple of the engine 'guru's on this site recommended against doing that. (And from what I've experienced, there are a LOT of knowledgeable and helpful people on Classic Parker!)
 
Thank you all once more; I was getting a couple momentary dribbles from the tell-tale, but I will still run a wire up there to check to see if it could be blocked. We have a lot of wasp, bees and spiders around, and I just finished waxing the boat and motor, so I'll also check for wax.
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I agree with Sarah F. My tube was plugged up with mud from a wasp one time. Hope your fix is that easy.
On my 150 I stopped using the muffs if it’s on the trailer. A dealer told me they use the hose fitting for all of their work if it’s just idling. My muffs could not produce a reliable pee.
I keep forgetting; The hose is not plugged with anything. There is free-flow of water through the tell-tale when the engine is running. There also used to be free-flow of water through the tell-tale when I flushed the the engine. Now, there is no flow of water through the tell-tale when static-flushing.
 
FWIW, when I first purchased my Parker the dealer told me to use both the muffs and the flush port because my 200hp Yamaha could not be run on the muffs alone. The engine is to big. That is what I have been doing for the past 13 years with zero issues. Just food for thought.
 
I'm referring to a 2014 300 HP Yamaha UCA, And doing the 'static-flush'... I used to get water out of the 'tell-tale' / pee hole when I flushed the engine (I flush after every use, and flush for 20-30 minutes). Water did not automatically come out, just when I would tilt the engine up or down to a certain height. I just had the water pump impeller replaced (of course, dropped the lower unit) and now, when flushing, there is very little water coming out of the 'tell-tale'; just an occasional dribble. I know there are 4 things to line up when reinstalling the lower unit (the main shaft, the 'shifter' shaft, and two nylon nipples. Could one of the nipples not being lined up/connected, or broken, be causing this? If so, would it have caused damage inside the lower-unit to have run the engine. I ran for 5 hours yesterday..... There is the normal strong flow of water from the tell-tale when the engine is running....

Has the operating temperature changed at idol or at running speed? If you didn't align everything properly while putting the lower unit back on, you would know it for sure. I don't get any pee when on the hose with my F300 either. You could flush with some salt-away to clear build up. BTW 20-30 minute flush is not necessary. 5 minutes is sufficient while the engine is still warm. Post a video of your engine pee.
 
FWIW, when I first purchased my Parker the dealer told me to use both the muffs and the flush port because my 200hp Yamaha could not be run on the muffs alone. The engine is to big. That is what I have been doing for the past 13 years with zero issues. Just food for thought.
Thank you! That sounds like the best way to flush an engine, especially if you can reach the lower unit, and/or if you are running the engine with the boat out of the water. I cannot reach the lower unit to put muffs on (The boat is lept on a lift, and is only on a trailer when taken out of the water with hurricanes). I was concerned that a 'static-flush' would not flush the entire engine. (engine not running). I've seen comments on Classic Parker that a 'static-flush' would not flush/clean the thermostats. (They won't 'open'). That could be true, but last week when I changed the thermostats, (they had over 800 hours on them) the old ones looked nearly NEW, no corrosion, no salt crust, and in perfect shape. I replaced them anyway. I run in salt-water about 50% of the time, and the rest in coastal brackish water..... My original question was about the 'tell-tale' not peeing when I'm 'static-flushing' the engine. It used to. Now it is not so I'm wondering what could be causing that.
 
Has the operating temperature changed at idol or at running speed? If you didn't align everything properly while putting the lower unit back on, you would know it for sure. I don't get any pee when on the hose with my F300 either. You could flush with some salt-away to clear build up. BTW 20-30 minute flush is not necessary. 5 minutes is sufficient while the engine is still warm. Post a video of your engine pee.
Hi Baker, thank you! The operating temp has not changed. All is good, and the 'tell-tale' pee is strong when the boat is in the water running. Your information about your F300 not peeing is good information for me, and interesting! Mine used to pee, when 'static-flushing', but only when I tilted the engine; which I do intentionally to make sure a steady stream came out the pee-hole, too. I'm getting a good 'flush' as I just changed the thermostats last week. The old thermostats have at least 800 hours on them. They looked like new; no corrosion; no salty build-up; very clean. In fact I was told I could have put them back it... Also, thank you for the advice about the length of time for flushing! I live in coastal NC, and the water from this public water system is insanely expensive. I use the boat 2-4 days a week, and flush it immediately after every use (engine still warm). Your advice will save me time AND $$...
 
Don’t think anything is misaligned and if you get pee when using it all should be fine. Sorry I can’t help on the pee while flushing.
A few notes:
I smoked my new water pump on my 150 from not getting good flow from the muffs so I am soured for life.
A dealer suggested the hose connection because that’s what they do and they do more than all of us. If I get a strong pee from the hose connected to the top of my cylinder head, I know I will not harm the motor and the water never gets warm. I only run in my winter cocktail and then do a spring start before launching, I have built motors and 100% trust this method. The manual says not to because people would probably tach it out in their backyard. Idle gets the job done.
I also flush as soon as I dock and in a few minutes it does not taste salty so I agree 5 minutes has definitely flushed the salt and thermostat looks new as well.
It’s nice to see guys keeping this site active and helpful.
 
Don’t think anything is misaligned and if you get pee when using it all should be fine. Sorry I can’t help on the pee while flushing.
A few notes:
I smoked my new water pump on my 150 from not getting good flow from the muffs so I am soured for life.
A dealer suggested the hose connection because that’s what they do and they do more than all of us. If I get a strong pee from the hose connected to the top of my cylinder head, I know I will not harm the motor and the water never gets warm. I only run in my winter cocktail and then do a spring start before launching, I have built motors and 100% trust this method. The manual says not to because people would probably tach it out in their backyard. Idle gets the job done.
I also flush as soon as I dock and in a few minutes it does not taste salty so I agree 5 minutes has definitely flushed the salt and thermostat looks new as well.
It’s nice to see guys keeping this site active and helpful.
I agree with all you said. I'm relatively new to Classic Parker, at least new to being 'active'; It took me a long time to learn how to use the site! (I'm old, half-deaf, half-blind and often brain-dead! ☺). I very-much appreciate the Classic Parker people who provide expert opinions, expert advice along with expert experience, and do it in such a helpful and cordial manner!
 
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