Woodruff Key

[Ranger Tim]

For the record, I HATE ALL WOODRUFF KEYS! There, it's off my chest. I have prevailed over this tiny chunk of metal by using brute force! My water pump impeller was fine but the plastic housing had some interior glazing and slight melting so I will be replacing it. I remember the day that I ran the motor before the barrel filled completely - never again! Make sure you have enough water to cover the lower unit COMPLETELY or use positive pressure muffs to achieve the same effect.

The water pump impeller change was easy. Except for the key removal. Next time I will do it at our shop so I have access to a compressed air rotary grinder to cut that sucker out. I won't wait another 440 hours to change it either. I see now the advantage in changing every 300 is to prevent accumulation of corrosion on metal parts. Salt away seems to have done a great job on mine EXCEPT for the *&%$@# woodruff key. I used plumber's silicone to make the o-rings sticky so they would stay in place for assembly.

Any other pointers before I complete ass'y?

 

[DaleH]

I see now the advantage in changing every 300 is to prevent accumulation of corrosion on metal parts. Salt away seems to have done a great job on mine EXCEPT for the *&%$@# woodruff key.

So true ... !

I use 2 items to prevent fasteners corroding into the parent hole material, OMC/Bombardier 'Gasket Sealer' and their 'Triple Gurard Grease'. The former is a dark olive green sealer that dries hard, but prevents water from seeping into the threads. This is used on the lower unit bolts and all other bolts, unless where a grease is specifically called out. For grease, it is a blue-colored synthetic waterproof grease formula.

You can buy both products with your brand of OB maker on the label, but the OMC/Bomb version will be the lowest price ... and believe me, they ALL come out of the same factory.