Yamaha 4 stroke 225's useful life?

[jsandusky48]

Looking to get an idea of what the life expectancy is on these both in hours and in years. Anybody have any input?

 

[camron]

I think that depends on how the maintenance was performed and if the exhaust has been inspectrd and or replaced

 

[Brent]

1100 hours on my 2002 F225. With regular maintenance and not overloading with pushing a too big boat or too much of a load, I would say several thousand hours. Most likely the lower unit will wear out first.
Our midsection corroded and was replaced and this year the lower unit replaced. Burns very little oil, too but it gets changed once or twice a year.

Several variables to consider including pilot driving habits.

B2

 

[Briand31]

I had a 2006 f225 for 11 years had 2010hrs I repowered this year but it was still running well when I sold it. Never had any major engine repairs other than routine maintenance

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

 

[Brent]

Timing belt was replaced this year at same time as LU. I was recovering from double hip replacement surgeries and hired a mobile mechanic to go over it. Lower unit was bad as prop shaft was slightly bent at 0.023 inches and no big hits on anything but in SW Florida, there is lots of skinny water or maybe bent when we bought it in 2009 and seals started wearing leaking. I just dont care about it or corrosion. You know it is bad day when you change lower unit oil and water pours out. I bought the remanufactured new style unit lower unit with extra water inlets and requires a different water pump. At the same time went to St Pete to look at new and used Parker boats and wanted to see new 2320 and 2530 and got sticker shock and keeping our 1994 2320 EC model for a few more years or until my crazy money neighbor gives me the 50K he said he would buy it. Lol but he said it more than once.

B2

 

[Brent]

In case you didn't know, SIM Yamaha has lots F225 service tutorials on their site and Andy is just super helping people like me who ask a lot questions. Be sure to buy the factory manual and not a cheaper one

B2

 

[Brent]

Yamaha Diagnostic Software ver 1.33 deals on eBay

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... .33+tablet

 

[Mpellet]

Looking to get an idea of what the life expectancy is on these both in hours and in years. Anybody have any input?

In my case 1843 hours. My 2005 F225 was in her 14th season when she passed this September. Went out like a champ, we were turning about 4800RPMs and about 3/4s of the way home from Block Island with a cooler full of fish when the engine dropped a valve. The end came quickly and with much carnage.

Engine served me very well, never missed a day or needed a tow until the end. I did replace the midsection in 2012 but aside from that just lots of routine maintenance. My boat is a 2520 always loaded heavy with dive or fishing gear. The boat was a bit underpowered for what I do and that engine never had it easy. Unless we we were trolling or in the no wake zone, rarely were RPMs under 4800.

Most likely sporting a new Suzuki 300 come Spring.

Boat is along side the house 2 months earlier then it normally would have been but the Tautog are celebrating knowing that we won’t be out there killing them this year....

 

[jsandusky48]

Thanks Mpellet. That is good info. Your story solidifies my desire for Twin engines. You just never know.

 

[shawnee83]

Assuming you are talking about the old 3.3L F225’s and not the newer 4.2’s? I have a 2006 F225 with approaching 800 hrs. I change thermostats and water pump and plugs every other season which is roughly 200 hrs. I change all the filters and engine/lower unit oil every season. Have had the VST cleaned and the injectors cleaned and checked a few years ago. My tech showed me when he had the lower off how to check the dry side exhaust and he said all of mine looked great. I keep the boat in a barn and put in for 2 or 3 days at a time. Engine is flushed at the yard when I put her back in the barn. So far so good. I only mentioned all of this as an example of the level of preventative maintenance required to achieve an expected life of 2K plus hrs? I hope it works. It could be in the 3’s and it might die at 1K? Noting would surprise me, lol.

 

[sydngoose]

Thanks Mpellet. That is good info. Your story solidifies my desire for Twin engines. You just never know.

One catastrophic failure 14 years into service w/ nearly 2000 hours on her pushing a boat that is continually max'ed with weight and no hiccups for the 1st 2000 hours.... I would say that solidifies my desire for a single 300 or 350 due to the awesome testimony of these 1st generation 4strokes. The days for redundant motors on the stern for "get me home" is over.
In my opinion, the only reason to have twins is to push a heavy boat that a single motor can not OR maneuverability with twins vs. a single.

Outboard technology has come so far, redundant motors for a safety feature is obsolete. Furthermore, with the economical acquisition costs of an EPIRB or a PLB and the multitude of fishing and commercial boats in todays near coastal ( w/ in 100 miles of shore) waters make twin outboards for safety obsolete.

To answer the OP question: The 3.3l blocks are awesome motors. The 4.2offshore block is even better. Run it. I have a friends ( commercial crabber) who has nearly 5500 hours on his 2004 Yamaha 225 4stroke (3.3l).

But, do watch that exhaust corrosion issue. You either have it or you don't. If you do, it's just a matter of time before that motor is finished her race.

 

[Lonesome Drift]

1100 hours on my 2002 F225. With regular maintenance and not overloading with pushing a too big boat or too much of a load, I would say several thousand hours. Most likely the lower unit will wear out first.
Our midsection corroded and was replaced and this year the lower unit replaced. Burns very little oil, too but it gets changed once or twice a year.

Several variables to consider including pilot driving habits.

B2

How will I know when my lower unit is going bad? I have 850 so far flawless hours on my 2006 F150 and recently I'm getting what could be described as a rattling sound when I put the boat in reverse. Does not happen in Forward. I just pulled for the season and plan to replace the water pump next spring. Any suggestions on what to look for when I have the lower unit off? Obvious wear??

- Mike

 

[Brent]

Water in oil from leaking seals

 

[Brent]

Not replacing drain and fill. crush washers - they are one use only.

Leaking seals from normal use or damage. Water in oil

Hitting an obstacle with prop, LU or both. Causing shaft , bearings and housing damage

Improper breaking in when new or after rebuild

Under filling LU oil

 

[Brent]

Maybe you need to adjust shift cable, rod etc

 

[Lonesome Drift]

Maybe you need to adjust shift cable, rod etc

Thanks for the feedback Brent. I will check the shift cable/rod in the spring when I do the water pump.

I admit I have been using the same washers on the fill and drain plugs on the lower unit for a long time. But I just changed the gear oil when I pulled the boat and it was pristine w/ 60 hours of use. And I never underfill it.

thanks again!

- Mike

 

[Brent]

A good time to replace drive shaft seals under water pump. Around 16 bucks

B2