Yami 200 HELP???

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iltfish

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cape may, nj
Guys- I value this forum and need some advice here. I have a 2520 with a 1999 Yami 200hp carbed Saltwater Series. It ran great all day yesterday until I went to leave for home. I started the engine and the 3 oil lights were blinking with no horn alarm. Never saw that before! Popped it into gear and was stuck in limp mode (2000rpm). Brought it out of gear and shut down. Checked both on onboard and remote oil tanks which were both full. Removed sensor from engine tank so float could drop full down. Turned key on and audio alarm works along with 3 blinking lights. Put back together and restarted engine. 3 oil lights still blinking and stuck in limp mode. Started checking connections on engine CDI and harness connectors. Started engine again and it still has oil lights blinking, but now rpm indication reads 0rpm with engine running. And still stuck in limp mode. Called SeaTow and got to the dock 5 hrs later.
Any ideas please?????
 
Was she shaking in limp mode like Courtney Love on crack at a metal concert? If so, she was in overheat mode, where timing is advanced to where you don't even want to run it ... shakin' so bad! You could have had a catastrophic impeller failure.

When was the last time the FULL waterpump service to include impeller & all wear parts, thermostats, and poppit valves were done?????
 
Yes- she was shaking a lot. Water pump and t-stats were just replaced this Spring. I also removed poppitt valve, cleaned it and checked spring
But the overheat warning never triggered and the pisser was constant.
Your thoughts????
 
Not 'sure' on the Yam alarm design, but since they essentially copied the OMC V6 design, typically the fuel restriction and overheat alarms share the same 'alarm' circuit, less their 'trigger' points, where there is a blocking diode that prevents the intentional mis-timing of the overheat condition from activation when the fuel restriction alarm triggers.

These could fail on an OMC, though not very common at all ... but, a shaking motor definitely means timing was messed up on purpose ... so not sure of the cause, but you had a heat alarm.
 
I have the same engine and if that engine overheats you will get a solid alarm/buzzer until it cools down. I don't have the lights but it does not sound like an oil issue based on your response of what you checked. I would pull the lower unit off and check that pump out. Like Dale said it sounds like a pump failure. Through experience I can affirm that if the O ring is not seated perfectly in that pump it can pee a stream but not have enough water pressure to cool down the powerhead. It only takes about 1-2 minutes without good waterflow to overheat the engine and it will go into protection mode and sound the alarm. When the engine cools down the alarm will stop.
 
Hi guys- thanks for the ideas. This morning, I checked the plugs, tstats, poppitt valve, overheat switches, and oil quantity sensor. Tested all with no defects noted. Started engine and all appeared normal. Took boat out of slip and ran hard at different throttle settings for 30 minutes. No alarms, tach worked and steady piss stream. Now I'm really worried as problem is intermittent and confidence is very low for next fishing trip. Don't know what to do here!
 
Is your alarm horn working?????????????

Turn key ON but don't start the motor ... take apart the overheat sensor (tan wire? male/female bullet connector) on top of powerhead, usually starboard block if only 1 on motor, and ground out the powerhead side of the connector to a clean ground on the block by using a piece of stray wire.

The alarm horn should sound … if it doesn’t it is broken ...
 
YES- the alarm horn does work. I checked it using the low oil level sensor and both overheat sensors.
 
Found bad yellow wire in eng harness molded connector. Replaced harness and all is right with the world!
 
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