Install cost of Windlass

What do you guys think a fair cost is to install a windlass on my 2120?
Originally the dealer quoted a price of around 1800,but that was for a horizon 600.I can purchase a Pro Series 700 free-fall for 850 delivered to my door,with the rode and chain.
http://www.boatbandit.com/lewmar-pro-se ... -5310.aspx
The mechanic who does my engine work told me 2500,which I feel is way out of line,but he is not as familiar with Parkers as would my dealer.
I really would like this done before the fall because I want to be able to retrieve my anchor in the "white water" when the wind is blowing good during the fall bass run.

Why don't you do it yourself. I am in the middle of the same project on my 2320. I have taken a while to plan it out and I have not yet finished so I don't want to sound too cocky yet. Nevertheless, it doesn't really seem to be that difficult a project.

At the very least, you may be able to do some of the work so that that would lower your cost.

When I am done with my project, I may be more helpful.

Good luck,

I'm very tempted to trust me.At the prices I'm being quoted I'd love to save a grand.Only problem is,if you screw it up,then you will pay even more to have someone correct the problem,which they would be hesitant to do anyway.

Don't screw up. save the grand anyway.

That is a project that I would like to do in the future. I know there have been posts in the past about this but document everything you guys can no mater which direction you chose. The more info the better. It will help me from screwing up. And I'm way to cheap to pay anyone else to do it. :lol:

Here is how I decide when to do a project vs. pay for it.

Do I have the time?..... and do I want to do it??? Having the experience has never stopped me because if I have the first two ingredients I can learn as I go.

When I don't have either the time or desire it is for me a better deal for me to work an extra shift and pay someone.

Find a Parker with a windlass and inspect it. The way I see it there are some wires... a few holes to make... some screws to screw....

1800 sounds about right and 2500 is just too much.

Lucky John":2eeugkrp said:

I'm very tempted to trust me.At the prices I'm being quoted I'd love to save a grand.Only problem is,if you screw it up,then you will pay even more to have someone correct the problem,which they would be hesitant to do anyway.

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I've seen all kinds of "professional" mistakes,

wiring not protected, loose, un-sealed connectors, wrong non-tinned wiring, bare wood exposed, screws instead of bolts, extra holes, units mounted off center to cover extra holes, silicone caulk, on and on.

If you're comfortable with a ruler, drill and a dremel tool, I'm confident you'll do as good as a job as anyone.

FishFactory":1msax89s said:

I've seen all kinds of "professional" mistakes,

wiring not protected, loose, un-sealed connectors, wrong non-tinned wiring, bare wood exposed, screws instead of bolts, extra holes, units mounted off center to cover extra holes, silicone caulk, on and on.

If you're comfortable with a ruler, drill and a dremel tool, I'm confident you'll do as good as a job as anyone.

Click to expand...

I agree with FishFactory. The fact is that since you are working on YOUR OWN boat you have a lot more incentive to research the correct way to do the installation and to make sure that each step is done right. You will have a strong inducement to buy quality supplies and you can justify using upgraded items because of all the money you have saved on the labor cost.

I'm going to get a price from "Good" windlass.They have a top notch windlass and also do their own installs,however you guys are starting to convince me to do it myself.

i have the lewmar 700 pro series, and installed my self. I t was fairly simple, in the box are the hole templet and wire size figures. All you need is drill hole saw im thinking 2 in. heat shrink, solder and of course a six pack. Drill all holes before 2nd beer its all pretty straight forward. gl

passingwindII":2l34r9tm said:

i have the lewmar 700 pro series, and installed my self. I t was fairly simple, in the box are the hole templet and wire size figures. All you need is drill hole saw im thinking 2 in. heat shrink, solder and of course a six pack. Drill all holes before 2nd beer its all pretty straight forward. gl

Click to expand...

I know the large hole is 3".what do i need heat shrink and solder for?Plus I know the holes must be sealed with epoxy or gelcoat or something along those lines.I looked under the dash yesterday,the wiring from the battery is already there on blocks,so I didn't think it would be too hard to go from there to 40 or 50 amp breaker.

PS How do you like the perfomance of this unit?Do you think 850 with the rode and delivery is a good price?

I have a factory installed Horizon 500 on my 2120. It has worked flawlessly since '04. Drop me a line if you need any specific info or pics. I have attached the following shots from an earlier post. I forgot what all the labels signify. It should be in the archives somewhere from last August, 2006 I think.

I love the windlass. It is a beautiful thing. I prefer controlled drop for a good, positive set. I can see where others may want free-fall for wreck anchoring or other quick drop issues. The current draw is significant, so do not scrimp on the wire. Be sure to use a decent swivel on the anchor and enough chain to do the job. When retrieving, use the waves to break the anchor free and pulse the windlass when the boat is dropping into the next trough. Don't strain the windlass by expecting it to power through extracting your tackle from the mud without help. Once free you can crank away.

Once again, contact me for any help on positioning yours and good luck!

I did mine in two hours thanks to Ranger Tims pics... P.S my dealer wanted 6 hundred.

If mine wanted 6 dead presidents I would have it installed already
I know it wouldn't take more than 3 hours or so for someone who works on boats all the time.

i used solder on the lugs instead of crimping the lugs on. I found it easier to use a torch heating the lug (lug being held with vice grips on wood board) when melted ,stick wire in . Heat shrink of course being done when lug cools. All of the connections in the posts above were made up.
i really enjoy my windless, my family (wife two small kids) go to an island often since the first baby i lost my anchor puller (wife). Also for diving its great . It always stinks to miss a wreck a few times when manually pulling. GL its easy and staight forward and you also need to know how or have someone to whip your rode to your chain..

I recently bought and installed a Lewmar 700 series on my 2320. It is my first windlass---now I can't imagine life without it. In my case, I am pretty skilled at everything "boat" except when it comes to electricity i.e. confidence making the proper connections. On the installation I essentially did everyyhing I could do per the instructions--I drilled all the holes in the pulpit and dash, caulked everything, ran the wires to and from the battery with the correct guage wires. I did everything but actually hook up the wires. For a $200 I hired a guy to do that. It took him about 2-3 hours to heat shrink and otherwise connect and waterproof all the connections.

I do have some words of wisdom though. Since our bow pulpit is on an upward angle, don't drill the pass through hole for the anchor chain/rode perpendicular to the pulpit. Drill perpendicular to the ground (straight down) or slightly aft as this will allow the chain/rode to pass through the center of hole and land closer to the deep end of the anchor compartment which is important.

Also make sure your 1/4 chain has the right spacing for the lewmar gypsy. My original "recommended" chain did not and chewed op the teeth on the gypsy until I finally figured it out. Since I don't have to haul up the anchor manually anymore, I use about 30 feet of chain on high quality New England 1/2 anchor rope. The long chain is nice for a real short scope.

As far as the anchor/swivel goes, ditto on selecting a high quality ($$) swivel. Lewmar Delta anchor is so far the best anchor I have every owned. I have not gotten it hopelessy stuck yet! For comparison purposes, my buddy has the same boat with the same chain and everything. We went out tandem and anchored on the same spot within 50 ft of each other. He had the Lewmar Delta 14 lb and I had the Lewmar Delta 22 lb anchor. In the middle of the night the winds gusted up to 20 knts. In the morning when we got up, I had not moved at all, my buddies boat had dragged anchor about 500 yds. IMO the 14 pounder is not big enough for a heavy 2320 in more than 15 knts of wind.

good luck,

jim

I was going to get a Delta 14lb,but I only have a 2120,I think it should be good enough.
I've got my sights on a Lewmar 700 Pro Series Free Fall.

You'll love it!!

GrouperJim,

I am about to install a Lewmar 700 on my 2320. Can you tell me where you located the 3 inch pass through hole. Perhaps you could give me the measured distance from some fixed point. I am somewhat leary of making the hole before I know exactly where it should be located.

Also, since you recommend against drilling perpendicular to the deck, how did you determine the offset angle?

thanx,

i mounted my lewmar 700 behind the pulpit and never had any problems with it for 2 yrs now. Rode falls freely

Ranger Tim has a pretty clean install, but there are a few thing's I did different.

1] No power down windless.

that would never do in setting a anchor to fish a reef. you would be blown off the correct anchor spot before you could get hooked up. this in turn would have you not sitting on the reef.

2] the use of non tinned battery cable ends.
That's just inviting corrosion.

3] using the Lemar CB that came with the unit.

It is mounted where it takes up more space on the console.
I elected not to use that CB at all and used a Blue Seas surface mount in the console by the battery.