1,000 Hour Yamaha 300 Service Help

[Andy]

Hi All, I need your help and expertise with information about my first 1,000 hour Service. I thank you in advance, and very-much appreciate all the help you've given me over the years.
We have a 2014 Yamaha 300. It has 1106 hours (yes I know I'm 106 hours over-due; suffice to say I've had a bad year). I will not be doing the 1,000 hour service myself, (it is beyond my 'skill-level'. I'll be using a local Certified Tech, hopefully Radcliff Marine in Belhaven, NC). I know they will be changing the timing belt and VST fuel filter. (Will I also need a new idler pully?). What else is involved with the 1,000 hour service?
I do my own service for oil changes, oil filter and all fuel filters, grease/lube, thermostats, internal anodes, external anode/zincs.
I have not used the boat much this year (I was having old-age 'issues'), but was also afraid of damaging the engine, knowing if the timing belt breaks, it's a serious problem with this type of Yamaha engine. (With some engines, if the belt breaks, you just stop and row home! ☺) Not so with this Yamaha, and that's one reason I'd consider Suzuki next time (timing chain).
In reality, how long will a Yamaha timing belt last? Has anyone gone 1,100 hours? 1,200 hours? What does an old one look like; is it frayed? gouged? corroded?
What else do I need to know? What information do I need when talking to the engine service company/people?

 

[captmatt]

I would worry less about the exact hours to replace the timing belt. If the belt is not cracked, frayed on edge, or making copious dust then it is fine for the near term. Get it replaced when you next get the engine serviced. There are lots of Yamaha timing belts out there with waaay more than 1000 hours run time.

If the belt is showing signs to major wear, then get it replaced ASAP and figure out why.

I always replace the pulley with a new belt to be extra cautious and because my time to turn wrenches (or take my boat to a shop) is limited. But the pulley is probably fine as long as the bearing is still tight and the running surface is smooth.

You should replace the anodes (several behind the ECU and also under both valve covers). I would also replace the thermostats if they have not been replaced for a while.

Yamaha has a maintenance table you can consult for 500 hour and 1000 hour items. Many items are check/replace as needed.

 

[Andy]

I would worry less about the exact hours to replace the timing belt. If the belt is not cracked, frayed on edge, or making copious dust then it is fine for the near term. Get it replaced when you next get the engine serviced. There are lots of Yamaha timing belts out there with waaay more than 1000 hours run time.

If the belt is showing signs to major wear, then get it replaced ASAP and figure out why.

I always replace the pulley with a new belt to be extra cautious and because my time to turn wrenches (or take my boat to a shop) is limited. But the pulley is probably fine as long as the bearing is still tight and the running surface is smooth.

You should replace the anodes (several behind the ECU and also under both valve covers). I would also replace the thermostats if they have not been replaced for a while.

Yamaha has a maintenance table you can consult for 500 hour and 1000 hour items. Many items are check/replace as needed.

Thank you for the help..... I have never seen the timing belt so I don't know what condition it's in. Getting to the belt requires taking parts off the engine, and I don't take many engine parts off the engine as the boat is kept on a lift. I drop too many in the water, and where I am, if it goes into the water, it is lost forever..... As I mentioned, I'm 106 hours past-due, and also past-due on the Yamaha recommended 'time'/years on the belt. The boat stays on a lift and is only off the lift for hurricanes, and now I have to get it off the lift and trailer it somewhere to get this work done. For the past 6 years I have done all the other work from the lift (even changing lower-unit lube/oil with a raft). I always replace the thermostats and anodes/zincs as per Yamahas schedule. The 'old' thermostats look as new as the ones I replace them with. We run mostly in low-salinity brackish water, and flush the engine after every use. Our normal cruising/fishing grounds are Pamlico Sound/Pungo River/Pungo Creek and their tributaries. The Pungo River averages only 15-20 ppt salinity as compared to 30-35 ppt in the Atlantic Ocean off the Outer Banks. The tributary creeks average only 10-12 ppt. 'Fresh' water is around 5 ppt. I believe this low-salinity water is why we've never have 'salt buildup' on the thermostats, engine parts, nor anodes. We are seldom in the ocean with this boat, unlike our past boats.

 

[warthog5]

Lets look at this a different way. By your own admission, You said you do not know the belts "Actual" condition.
Belts not only wear with use, but break down with age.
Ask yourself this..... Are you ready to buy that new Suzzy NOW because you neglected what the factory recommended?

 

[captmatt]

You can take a look at the belt by removing the cowling and then removing the top plastic engine cover held on only by pins that seat into rubber mounts (no tools required). Very easy to do.

Again, most probably no emergency to get the belt replaced.

 

[Andy]

Lets look at this a different way. By your own admission, You said you do not know the belts "Actual" condition.
Belts not only wear with use, but break down with age.
Ask yourself this..... Are you ready to buy that new Suzzy NOW because you neglected what the factory recommended?

That's one reason I've not used the boat much this year. I don't know much about timing belts (other than the fact that a broken one can kill the Yamaha). As much as I'd like that new Suzuki, I'd rather wait a couple more years! ☺

 

[Andy]

You can take a look at the belt by removing the cowling and then removing the top plastic engine cover held on only by pins that seat into rubber mounts (no tools required). Very easy to do.

Again, most probably no emergency to get the belt replaced.

I was thinking there was a more to remove than just the plastic cowling? (This is a 'snip'... not a picture of my engine).

 

[rseate]

Not to derail your thread but where you’re fishing at there are monster bull reds in those waters!

 

[southofblock]

Andy, twin 2018 Yamahas 200 hp with 2400 hours! I am at same place as you, and thank you for posting.

Second owner, bought the 2018 Parker 2501 in June at good price due to high engine hours. The owner was meticulous, the service records covered yearly everything. Except timing belts, a Yamaha mechanic inspected the belts at 1000 hours and reported back fine, didn’t need replacement.

Both belts will be replaced over the winter. I didn’t know about the pulleys, will check those. My goal is to try to get at least two years out of the Yamahas. (However, I don’t know, from the outside, everything looks bright, shiny and new).

For the 200’s heard about 1 1/2 hours labor and belts $160. Not an expensive job.

 

[Andy]

Andy, twin 2018 Yamahas 200 hp with 2400 hours! I am at same place as you, and thank you for posting.

Second owner, bought the 2018 Parker 2501 in June at good price due to high engine hours. The owner was meticulous, the service records covered yearly everything. Except timing belts, a Yamaha mechanic inspected the belts at 1000 hours and reported back fine, didn’t need replacement.

Both belts will be replaced over the winter. I didn’t know about the pulleys, will check those. My goal is to try to get at least two years out of the Yamahas. (However, I don’t know, from the outside, everything looks bright, shiny and new).

For the 200’s heard about 1 1/2 hours labor and belts $160. Not an expensive job.

Thank you for the info. I wouldn't be as concerned about the timing belt, if it were the kind of engine that doesn't 'implode' when the belt goes bad. With other engines, the motor just stops; no internal damage; not so with the Yamahas!... Plus, our engine being nearly 10 years old, I'm ready to replace it not matter how good it looks...... I'm not sure what the going-labor-rate is in our area; I've heard it's around $100/hr. I don't mind paying professionals, as long as I get professional results! ☺

 

[Parker Dave]

Took mine in this fall for its 600 hr. service. Mechanic advised the belt was making dust and advised I change it, and the idler pulley.

When I stated I thought that was usually a 1000 hr. issue, he advised that age is as big a factor (motor is a 2018).

$1100 job. Hurts when you aren't planning for it......

 

[Andy]

Took mine in this fall for its 600 hr. service. Mechanic advised the belt was making dust and advised I change it, and the idler pulley.

When I stated I thought that was usually a 1000 hr. issue, he advised that age is as big a factor (motor is a 2018).

$1100 job. Hurts when you aren't planning for it......

Thank you for your input. Yours belt is/was only 5 years old. Mine is nearly 10. I'm 'past-due' and will have it changed as soon as I can get it done. If anyone's curious/interested, I'll post pictures of the old belt after it's replaced so others can see what an 'over-due' belt looks like. I have about a four mile run to make to the ramp where I put the boat on a trailer. With my luck, I bet the belt will break before I get there! ☺