1996 Parker 2110 - Fuel Leak

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roncpi

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I just purchased a 1996 Parker 2110. I believe (91.571% sure) the fuel tank has a corrosion hole somewhere above the half full area, as there is a heavy fuel smell and fuel in my bilge. When I inspected the boat and did a sea trial the fuel tank was less then half full and there was no smell or fuel in the bilge. However, after filling the tank and running it all day I had a heavy smell when I opened the inspection plates and about a half a gallon of fuel in the bilge when I pulled the plug. I am very thankful I didn't blow myself up!!!

Has anyone experienced this issue that would be willing to offer some advise?

I live in Ventura, CA if anyone can recommend a shop.

I am also up for doing the repair myself if it is not an impossible task.

Thanks for your help, Ron Cole
 
Had the same issue with my 2120. It was only after fuel up. I replaced the fill end vent hose and it did the trick, After removing the old I filled it up and it was leaking in numerous spots and my boat is an 03. If they have never been done its worth a try.
 
Excellent, thank you for the advice and encouragement! I really hope it is not the tank!!! I’ll report back after I inspect the hoses and gasket.


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I just purchased my 2110 last year and mine is a 2000 model. I replaced all of the fuel system hoses, as well as LOTS of other stuff, before ever using the boat for the first time. I will say that my fuel fill hose did not appear to be leaking but there were some cracks in it where it makes a fairly sharp bend in the chase just before entering the tank coffin. Yours are 4 years older than mine if they haven't been replaced before so I would say it is likely your problem. Go into the cabin and thhere is a plywood panel covered in carpet on the port side that you can unscrew to gain access to your fill and vent hoses. It's a pretty straight forward job if you have a helper, I just pulled a rope through with the old hose and pulled the new ones back through with the rope. Beware, the fill hose is EXPENSIVE for what it is. If I remember correctly it was over $2 / foot and you need just over 9 feet. I would think if your tank was corroded it would more likely be corroded at the bottom vs. near the top but stranger things have happened I guess. Good luck!
 
Found the leak!!!

I removed the tank sending unit and cleaned the corrosion under the gasket and there are a ton of holes. See photo. So, replace the tank? JB weld and replace? Other?
915734b6cd283cb0c4bd6667fae41ea7.jpg



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roncpi":2nan7yw2 said:
Found the leak!!!

I removed the tank sending unit and cleaned the corrosion under the gasket and there are a ton of holes. See photo. So, replace the tank? JB weld and replace? Other?
915734b6cd283cb0c4bd6667fae41ea7.jpg



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Click to expand...
Well, let's see. First and foremost, no matter what you do, don't forget that you're working dangerously close to a flammable / explosive liquid. NO POWER TOOLS!! Personally I would think about this job carefully. The first thing I would do is pump / siphon the tank out completely and visually inspect the inside of the tank for any spots near the bottom that might look like corrosion is eating away from the outside the best you can. No, it's not a sure thing, but it could steer you in the right direction. I did this after buying my boat (she had not been used in 3 yrs. so I wasn't even thinking about running on that old gas) and you could see pretty good with a light and mirror. If the tank looks good from the inside, I wouldn't even think about cutting up the floor and replacing the tank. If you see any sign that the tank may be bad near the bottom I would probably yank it out of there. That being said, I belive your obvious corrosion issue around the sender can be fixed without full tank replacement. One thing to think about is that you will never get screws to tighten up in that tank if you just fix the holes with JB so you are gonna have to deal with that as well. If you check on WEMA's website they sell a "ring" that has the hole pattern to match the sender that you JB to the tank on the bottom side that will fix your screw hole problem and probably cover up some of the corrosion holes as well from the bottom. Then you could JB the topside and sand smooth / flush so your gasket will seal and not leak. Another option is to repair from the topside by covering the whole area with new aluminum but that would require welding (with extra caution due to gas / fumes) or possibly, with proper prep and a new piece of aluminum, you could probably epoxy a patch over the whole area with thhe sender hole pattern pre drilled into it and it would probably last as long as the rest of the tank. This is just off the top of my head, I'm sure there would be other ways as well. Good luck and keep us up to speed on your progress, we'll help any way we can.
 
Another thing to think about is WHY this happened in the first place. You either have a bad electrical connection to your tank / sender or you have water entering the tank coffin somehow (probably leaking pie plates) and laying around the sender area causing this corrosion. So that would need to be fixed as well. IF you have water entering the coffin the foam around your tank is probably saturated which may cause you problems near the bottom of the tank down the road.
 
Replace tank, find the tank data plate with serial number and contact RDS for the drawing. They or other reputable tank builder to build. Use a thicker gauge and coat it with epoxy or other high quality coating. . Replace fuel and vent lines, Look a WEMA fuel senders. Search this site first and read Warthog 2530 project. Do another search and enter tank and read all of the collective wisdom on tank R&R. After the tank is removed, take some time to inspect the stringers, drainage pipe, etc. Since area is opened up, good time to repair and update other items, like scuppers and drain tubes, battery boxes, all thru the hull fittings, add a saltwater wash down system. Just take your time or find a someone like Warthog or a shop that that does tank replacement routinely. Warthog seals the top of the foam to prevent water moisture. Great tip!
 
Well, just got my boat back from the shop... $6700 later. New tank, hoses, scuppers, etc. They did a great job, so I should be good for another 22 years! Thanks for all your help! Great forum!


Ron - 1996 Parker 2110
 
If you are thinking about repairing this? DON'T! It would be like pissing in your boot.

You see that corrosion....Garantee there is more you can't see.....and what you can't see can hurt you.

Tank is 22yrs old....You got all the life out of it....There are ways to make them last longer.....But no factory install will do it.

It costs more!

Upgrades are 3/16in thickness.....coal Tar epoxy coating. Fiberglass the top of the coffin, so NO water will ever enter.

I have a few more upgrades I have done and it's directly related to what is in your pix's. a 1/8in thick alum plate is barely adequate at holding a stainless screw. Plus those screws go stright into the tank. I built a 3/4in thick Billet piece that gets welded to the tank with the sending unit pattern on it.

I also add a vent in the back of the tank. That way the tank is vented from booth ends. Filling is never a problem with the gas nozzle @ WOT.

front and rear vent fitting are tied together and then T'd to the hull vent.


Don't play with this.....It CAN KILL You! Replace it.
 
I did replace it... brand new tank!


Ron - 1996 Parker 2110
 
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