2003 2510 Bilge Pump Configuration

[Togntime]

I'm assessing the plumbing and thru hulls on my new to me 2003 2510. I currently have a Rule 1500 aft and a Rule 360 forward bilge pumps. Both are on float switches and seem to function as they should. Is this a factory setup? The 1500 seems to be plumbed with 1 1/8" and the 360 with 3/4" hose. Any recommendations on replacements?

Thanks!

 

[warthog5]

The hose sizes are dictated by the pumps.....Once you hit the 1500GPH size pump the hose size is 1 1/8in....... Forward bilges don't get that much water in them, but they do get some due to the nature of the way the boat sits on the trailer. Forward bilge is lower than the rear...But jumping the boat up on plane will cause the water in forward to run to the rear.
You don't have a problem.....

 

[pelagic2530]

I'm assessing the plumbing and thru hulls on my new to me 2003 2510. I currently have a Rule 1500 aft and a Rule 360 forward bilge pumps. Both are on float switches and seem to function as they should. Is this a factory setup? The 1500 seems to be plumbed with 1 1/8" and the 360 with 3/4" hose. Any recommendations on replacements?

Thanks!

Sounds right to me. Check the condition of your thru-hull fittings; if they’re plastic recommend switching them to SS. I use Gemlux fittings. Same with hoses, hose clamps, etc. Replace anything showing signs of rust or degradation. “Stainless” hose clamps are notoriously problematic; many of the cheaper ones can contain mild steel components or are made out of a lower grade stainless that will corrode and weaken.

While you’re at it, turn off your batteries and lift your float switches. At least one should function with the batteries off, so that if the boat is left in the water with the power shut off the pump will still work to discharge any accumulated water.

Check the fuses for your pumps, as well. That means from all power sources in the case of the one that works with the batteries off; chances are it’s powered from both a switch and a separate inline fuse coming directly off one of the batteries. It’s very important that the fuse rating be exactly what is printed on the pump casing. This is because when pumps experience a “locked rotor” condition, where the pump is energized but the impeller is blocked from turning, the pump will heat up while amperage draw drops. If the fuse is rated too high, it may not blow before the pump burns up and starts a fire.

 

[Togntime]

Thanks guys. I ordered the 1 1/8" gemlux thru hulls to replace the rear bilge and fish box drain. Wondering now if I should of went up a size for a bigger pump. For those running a spare or back up bilge is a 2nd thru hull required or can I wye it in close to the outlet thru hull?

 

[warthog5]

In the pix's you will see 2 pumps.....Primary is 1500.....Secondary is a 2000. The float switch is slightly elevated for the 2000.....This is a good time to add a bilge alarm also.

The alarm sounds if the 2nd pump kicks on.

You will also see the use of 90deg fittings.....This produces a high loop, like bilge hose should have. If the fittings are straight....and low, with no loop....Water can actually be shipped into the boat.
Oh....and that plastic segmented hose....That is sold for "Bilge Hose"......It should be Outlawed!

 

[Togntime]

Thanks Wart. So you added a dedicatd thru hull for the back up bilge? I ordered the 90 degree thru hull for the forward bilge, but wasn't thinking of that on the aft bilges as well. Whats the preferred bilge hose? I'm not seeing to many options in 1 1/8"

 

[pelagic2530]

Thanks guys. I ordered the 1 1/8" gemlux thru hulls to replace the rear bilge and fish box drain. Wondering now if I should of went up a size for a bigger pump. For those running a spare or back up bilge is a 2nd thru hull required or can I wye it in close to the outlet thru hull?

It’s possible to use one thru-hull for two discharges but I wouldn’t recommend it. You run the risk of one pump discharging back through the other. ABYC has very stringent guidelines regarding this configuration, and I’m not sure the effort needed to comply with them is worth the hassle.

Additionally, if you’re in a situation where both pumps are running simultaneously, you’re going to restrict the output of both pumps unless the single discharge you’re using is sized equivalent to two of the smaller discharge sizes, which is a pretty large thru-hull fitting.

All in all, best practice is to just install two fittings.

As far as hoses go, any reinforced hose with a smooth interior wall will work. DO NOT use a hose with a corrugated or ridged interior as this will severely restrict water flow. That said, spiral wrap reinforced hose found at most marine outfitters has an outward corrugated appearance due to the reinforcing wrap, but has a smooth interior. This type of hose is available in 1-1/8” from marine supply houses (West Marine, etc.) and is a good choice.

 

[sailmaster]

Sounds right to me. Check the condition of your thru-hull fittings; if they’re plastic recommend switching them to SS. I use Gemlux fittings. Same with hoses, hose clamps, etc. Replace anything showing signs of rust or degradation. “Stainless” hose clamps are notoriously problematic; many of the cheaper ones can contain mild steel components or are made out of a lower grade stainless that will corrode and weaken.

While you’re at it, turn off your batteries and lift your float switches. At least one should function with the batteries off, so that if the boat is left in the water with the power shut off the pump will still work to discharge any accumulated water.

Check the fuses for your pumps, as well. That means from all power sources in the case of the one that works with the batteries off; chances are it’s powered from both a switch and a separate inline fuse coming directly off one of the batteries. It’s very important that the fuse rating be exactly what is printed on the pump casing. This is because when pumps experience a “locked rotor” condition, where the pump is energized but the impeller is blocked from turning, the pump will heat up while amperage draw drops. If the fuse is rated too high, it may not blow before the pump burns up and starts a fire.

I tape a spare fuse on the inline bilge pump fuse. When they pick up junk they will blow the fuse. But clean it out and replace the fuse and back in business

 

[pelagic2530]

I tape a spare fuse on the inline bilge pump fuse. When they pick up junk they will blow the fuse. But clean it out and replace the fuse and back in business

Always a good idea to carry a full set of spares for ALL the fuses on board. I’ve switched exclusively to Blue Sea EasyID ATC fuses, which light up a LED when they blow. Makes diagnosing a problem quick and easy.