2120 SC SPRING PROJECTS - AC and Bimini

[shawnee83]

Well I'm sharing some pics of my AC install. My Parker needs to be a multi purpose boat. Part overnighter, fishing boat and family day boat out at the islands/Cape. I met a guy from Coastal Canvas, who makes the Bimini tops, coaming pads etc for the Parker plant, last weekend to measure for a custom Bimini for my boat. The plan is to have it 6'4" high (just a little higher than the rocket launcher) and 48" long. This will put it about 2' short of the front edge of the jump seats. It will have 2 solid hold down struts at the stern and 2 solid short ones at the front (cabin side) attached to the rocket launcher. These will be in from the corners about 1' and attach to the launcher between tube 1 & 2 on each side. All struts will have quick disconnects so that it can be stowed in the up position but not rubbing on the launcher while still booted and rigid. I'll post pics when installed in about 5 weeks or so. I know the AC is a total rig job but I thought it was worth a try. It's much cheaper than a marine system. 9000 btu AC & 8500 btu heat. I still need to cushion it and secure it before I hook up the vent tube but you can get the idea. For this year I'm just using a poor man shore power hook up with a power strip cord run to where the wiring harness runs out of the gunnel rod holder area and plugged into an extension cord with a 30A adapter at dock.

 

[Bryan 2530]

Interesting on the AC.

Where did you get it and what are the dimensions?

 

[shawnee83]

I ordered it from Best Buy on line. Purchased the 4 year protection plan which I normally never do but thought given what I'm doing with it figured it was money well spent. Total shipped to door was a little over $400. It has a holding tank for condensation but it also came with a short drain tube for continuos draining. I'm not using that one but do plan to drain it into the bulge drain in the cabin using something along the lines of a ice maker water line. I'm still working that out too. I plan to run it along the edge and cover it with the cabin mat that I have not shown in pics. The boat will only ever will be in the water for a few days or week at a time then back on the trailer for storage. The bulge will be cleaned out and plug pulled each time. Like I said, it's a total rig job in progress. I'm trying to make it look decent though. I pasted the link to the unit below.
Height: 29-5/8"
Width: 12"
Depth: 15"

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/slimline-90 ... cp=1&lp=15

 

[Bryan 2530]

Let us know how it works out, I think its a great option compared to a real marine AC with pumps and seawater inlets and outlets, etc.

Are you going to insulate under the gunwales?

 

[shawnee83]

I'm not going to insulate under the gunnels but I am going to use some of the scrap from the rod holder cut out to fill in that 2" gap at he top and then just clean and re-calk those areas around the rod holders. If I can find a vent cover of some type and hinge it or secure it so that it's removable when the unit is in operation I will put on on it to cover the hole when not in use. Otherwise, I think I will just use a big sponge to plug the vent when not in use. I considered using a dryer vent cover but it reduced it to 4" and it needs to be 5". These units are sensitive to restricting the venting air flow. So I just modified the stock system for window venting which I think will work fine. The rod holder holes I plan to just use a foam ball in them when not in use. I was going to do that anyway to keep the bugs & dirt etc out of those cavities in the cabin.

 

[warthog5]

This is what I plan to use also, but I'm going to make a Lexan filler for the side window for the exhaust air. Drainage will go to the bilge.

Plan on a bulkhead connection to bring the 110V inside from a Honda 2000.

 

[shawnee83]

Thought about using the side window to vent also but ruled it out for 4 reasons.
1. Looks (didn't want it to show and look odd)
2. Having to take it in and out when using.
3. Didn't want it in the way of any seating or usable cabin space.
4. Didn't like the idea of hard or blowing rain getting into the vent. (Although I guess you would have the same concern on a house window?)

I wanted to be able to plug up shore power and or maybe someday a generator and just turn it on.

The window option will obviously work but since this forum is about sharing ideas, I just wanted to toss out the things I thought about with that method.
Good luck with yours warthog! I'll post follow up once mine is working on how it's doing.

 

[Phil]

That's the direction I'm heading if I were to install AC. I like the idea of hiding the exhaust under the gunnel. Another idea, since the dimension is 12x15, you can rotate the AC 90 degrees clockwise, raise it up on some Starboard cabinetry, and pipe it straight out the back of the bulkhead capping it off with a dryer vent cover like this 5". That way, the cold air shoots right at the captain's back--ha ha. Also, since cold air sinks, you want the vent to be as high as possible.

http://www.amazon.com/Pasco-Louvered-Dr ... vent+cover

 

[warthog5]

I'm gonna think about it some more..... The idea was to not cut the boat up more and if the boat needed to be brought to the house to work on.....I could just plug the A/C in to do work. Can't do that with a water cooled A/C


On your power strip cord ....... I'd use a dedicated 12ga ext. cord.

 

[shawnee83]

Good point on the cord Warthog. I think that the one I'm using now is a 50' 14G. I've been pricing a 30A shore power system and I think it will end up over $350 with wire outlets and incidentals. That's with a simple panel with main and 3 15A breakers. I'd like to add a battery charger to the boat also. All of this part will have to wait until next year if I'm to have a happy wife!
Thanks for the pointer.

 

[tall tails]

I did the same basic thing for a bimini on my 2520 about ten years ago. The location, height, distance from the seats, etc. is virtually identical to your plan. I bought the bimini complete with poles and it was the correct size, off ebay. When not in use I collapse it, put the boot around it, and stand it up behind the pilot house, around the front of the rocket launchers. It works great, is easy to put up, and still looks new (inside the boot that is). Attached is an old picture with it folded up. The picture is fuzzy but gives you a sense of what it looks like stowed away.

 

[shawnee83]

That looks like it works out well on yours. My launchers are further forward and up on the top vs off the back of the cabin top like on yours. The 2120's cabin top is lower than the 2520's when I'm on the deck my cabin top is even with about my chin.

 

[tall tails]

Good point...

Even though the mounting may be different I can tell you that having the bimini, with those rough dimensions, works out very well with family. You can relax out of the sun, but still step behind it to cast. It has been a lifesaver on a hot day! I am sure you will be glad you did it.

 

[shawnee83]

Yes, exactly what I'm shooting for. I really agonized over the size trying to find a balance between fishing and shade. In NC you get plenty of sun while on the water without going out of your way to get it. I'll post pics when I get it installed.

 

[shawnee83]

Well I finished with the AC/heat instal today. It's a bit of a rig job for sure. I'll let all know how it holds up.

 

[shawnee83]

This is step one for my new top. Coastal is making me a dodger that will connect via a track system on the back edge of the hard top and zipper onto the front edge of the Bikini. It has solid struts to the hard top and to the deck. It's rock solid. I know these aren't great photos with detail. I'll take more later.

 

[shawnee83]

Pic 2

 

[shawnee83]

Pic 3

 

[shawnee83]

Well my dodger is done and installed. Mike from Coastal Canvas actualy installed the dodger for me I should say, Thanks Mike! He sent me these photos so I haven't actually seen it in person yet. Hopefully next weekend though. I'm happy with how it turned out. I can zip it out from the ends and fold the dodger back for the walkarounds and also Mike surpirsed me with a center zip out for access to the rocket launchers and for air flow if I want it open. I still have the last 2' of deck prior to the front edge of the jump seats and back open for fishing and dealing with the rods while troling. Wtih the splash guard out as well it works pretty good. Again, all of the hard point mounts have push button quick release, so the whole top can be removed in a few minutes if so desired. The top is also set up so you can add side and back enclosures if you wanted to. I don't think that I will do that but you could if you wanted to. I know some of you don't care for tops on your Parkers but in NC in the summer you will get your butt kicked by the sun and heat in a few hours without one so for me some shade is a must have. By the way, Mike at Coastal Canvas makes the tops for Parker that they sell as an option along with the combing pads etc..He does great work and is a super guy. I think he is looking at mine as a posible top he can offer wholesale to others aftermarket or maybe thru Parker?? Not sure about that last part. Anyway, if anyone is interested in it I can put you in touch with him. I may post a few more photos from the front angle etc when I actually see it in person.

 

[Gobbler66]

That is sweet and exactly what I was looking for. Two questions I have is where in NC is Mike and could you give me an approximate price this would cost me? I am curious if this is something I can order and install myself as I live in Williamsburg, Va.
Yea that is super sweet!