2320 Notched Splashboard for a notched transom

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Phil

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I know several members here made their own transom board. Here's my version of it. Made it from 3/4" starboard in seafoam color. The channel is 1/8" thick annodized alluminum fastened to the bulkhead by 4 aluminum rivets and 1 countersunk SS screw per side--the SS screw was used because there is a wood mounting plate in the way. The bottom of the board has a EPDM self-stick gasket that worked surprisingly well. I filled in the gaps near the bottom of the channel with a big dollop of silicone, smeared some Vaseline on the board so the silicone won't stick to it, then let the whole thing set up creating a perfect seal. So the transom board should be adequately water tight.

I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out. I liked the splashwell but it took up some valuable real estate. It also make access to the bilge ridiculously difficult. The bilge pump switch for the 2nd bilge pump that I had installed about 12 years ago failed so I had to remove the splashwell. (The cause was a corroded power connection where the 3 wires (pump switch, cabin switch, and bilge pump) are spliced together. The factory installed spliced also showed the green powder signs of corrosion but they used a bigger butt connector so it had more metal so it was still working but would eventually fail. So check this connection when you have access to it.) One of the best thing I like about the new setup is that I can lift the board up and hose the cockpit down like you would a pickup truck bed. With the splashwell and the 2 drains not at the corners of the cockpit, I had to walk side to side multiple times to get fish guts to work down the drain. When I was commercial striper fishing, I had scales by the handfull clogging the drains--not good when you are drifting thru 6' rips at Monomoy...
 

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Looks great!

Just to give others some more ideas, as each boat & use is to one's own preference, but when I had a Pro-Line with a cut-out transom, I made one in a simlar fashion. But I had used SS barrel bolts on the hinge for the bottom, which also made it fully removable by retracting the bolts. Now it clearly wasn't as water-tight as yours.

I also put a SS piano hinge a little bit above half-way up, where the motor could still be trimmed & tilted all the way up in an emergency. To keep that section 'up', it had a UV-proof bungee stretched from the top to the bottom, that would stretch further if I needed to move the motor WAY UP. For maintenenace, I'd just remove the bungee or the entire transom board itself.

This was long before the days of the internet and I never took pictures of it, but it worked SLICK ... as you have found out :D ! Great job!
 
Thanks Dale, I do recognize the disadvantage of needing to remove the board before tilting up the engine (i.e. anchor rode getting caught up in the prop in rough seas would be a serious safety issue.) So I might decide later to cut the board in 2 pieces. The good thing about the alum channel is the mod is very simple. All I have to do is 1 cut (maybe at a 45 degree angle to allow the top peice to shed water.)Both pieces will then fit in the channel and mate together like 1 piece--no piano hinge needed...
 
Phil":473yvmqw said:
I do recognize the disadvantage of needing to remove the board before tilting up the engine (i.e. anchor rode getting caught up in the prop in rough seas would be a serious safety issue.) So I might decide later to cut the board in 2 pieces. The good thing about the alum channel is the mod is very simple. All I have to do is 1 cut (maybe at a 45 degree angle to allow the top peice to shed water.)Both pieces will then fit in the channel and mate together like 1 piece ...
Agreed, a GREAT tip using that channel and one I would do that BEFORE you ever need to get access to or around that motor in an emergency!

Note that one day on the water when the seawater temp was 56-degrees-F we pulled 4 guys out of the drink who's small boat had swamped. NONE had a preserver on and were literally clinging for life to any floating jetsom from their sunk craft, like coolers and jackets - all tied together.

To get them in my Pro-Line we had to drag them through the cut-out transom ... there was no time to go thru a huge process to remove the transom washboard, in my case I just flipped the bungee off, pulled the SS bolts back and it fell away. Then we summoned the strength from the man above to somehow haul them in thru the motor well.

Truth is ... if I had been on my Parker with a full transom then ... at least one of them probably would have died, as we were in steep choppy seas to 3-4' and there's no way without a gin post we could have lifted 4 big guys out of the water onto my deck. To this day it gives me shivers to think about what could have happened if I was in another boat design ... As is, one let go of a cooler and sunk before our eyes and went under my boat, banging on the bottom all the way ... we got him about 5' down and going down on the other side just by hooking his jacket with a huge cod/pogie jig ... then hauled him up to the surface and did rescue breathing on him. All made it :) .
 
:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
GOD BLESS YOU GUYS!!!
WOW what a day that must have been !
 
Looks like I needed that piano hinge after all. Subscribing to Murphy’s law of anything that can happen will happen (especially on a boat) , I decided to cut a notch on my splash board. The notch is ½ the height of the board limiting the outboard to about 2/3 of full tilt up. This should be plenty to allow for the clearing of a fouled prop, avoiding rocks, or pulling up a ramp. The outboard also acts as a shield protecting the middle of the board (which is weaker) and shedding the water toward the sides (which is much stronger.)

Instead of using a bolt & latch to hold up the notch cutout, I used some leftover alum channel as a cap because I’m a cheapskate and because it is less likely to catch a tight fishing line. Plus if the outboard is accidentally tilted up, the cap should pop off limiting damage...

So I was looking at the pics while doing this post and my mind started wandering about where I should put the eu2000. I think I may have found the spot... I can use the outboard as a tailfin directing exhaust flow...Still in thinking/planning stage. I am open to ideas as to hardware and such....
 

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Anyone who needs a generator on such a small boat :roll: you can't live aboard ... needs to sell the boat and take up another hobby ... :lol:
 
>Can you turn with it tilted up???

Yeah, I noticed that after the fact--tried to get too cute with the cutout. There are very few reasons to need to turn the engine tilted that high--maybe in very shallow water, but I can always remove the whole board if needed..

>Anyone who needs a generator on such a small boat you can't live aboard ... needs to sell the boat and take up another hobby ...

For the 13 years I owned the baot, the average days per trip is about 2.5 days with max being 4 days--so I use the genny extensively.
 
I wonder if anyone has done this with a 2120,beats the heck out of spending 5 grand to close the transom.
 
What about Generator exhaust?

In the pix......The Hot exhaust is hitting the front of your outboard cowl. Melt it? At the very least....Soot it up.
 
Yeah, that genny position did not work out--still smell the exhaust and takes up cockpit room. The pic below is my goto position. Just point it down wind.

RA, the bulkheads on the 2320 makes it easy for a full splashboard. The 2120 would be harder, but doable.
 

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Mr. Phil,

I have a question for you.....
I have a 2320 sc and today got the call that Parker no longer has the splash well cover.....omg....lol

So I'm going to make one like you did.....

Question is forward of the splash guard you have 2 strainer looking deck drains.
Where do they drain to?

Do they just dump water into the bilge area or are they plumbed to the transom or sides of the boat?

Thanks John.
 
John
They drain out of scuppers below the scuppers in the splash well. Plastic balls in them prevent backwash.
Ricky
 

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