Anything wrong/complaints with your new Parker?

[DaleH]

My experience is, most boats are rigged WAAAY underpropped.

Wow, my experience is largely the opposite. I find dealers usually over-pitch the boat so the performance 'when new' (light boat) seems better than it actually will be once the new owner loads it full of fuel, people, and gear.

Many people like to prop the engine so it will reach redline under light load and fuel. I believe you should prop so the engine will reach redline at full load including fishing tackle, beer, ice, downriggers, anchor, various tools, any spares you carry, people, or anything else you may load on during a normal day.

Most OB gurus like Dunk, Seahorse, John from Illinois, and Bill Grannis opine that in the Spring (clean hull, low humidity, & cooler temps) one should prop the boat to be within 200 but not less than 300 RPMs off the maximum RPM range, with 2 people on boat, typical gear (safety, anchor, etc., but not hundreds of pounds of ice and 2/3rds fuel capacity. I myself shoot for being within 200 and will even send the prop out to be 'tweaked' to achieve that rating.

I find the rough guess-timate works well on many boats. This allows the motor to still develop torque once fully loaded down with gear. IMHO most people are over-propped to begin with and many here on the CP forums already state they're running their Yam F225 motors at just barely over 5K RPMs with a light load. Wrong prop and/or wrong motor height.

Some will decry this theory as you could, in theory over rev operating under lihave the ability load and this is true.

Yeah, but just to point out ... all OBs with CDI/powerpack, ECU controls (all meaning - no points) motors have REV limiters - you CANNOT over rev the motor, the electronic brain won't allow it to happen. Example, my 6K motor hits the rev limit switch at 6200 RPMs.

Now I agree with you, I'd rather be under-pitched than over-pitched, as for those 2 choices, over-pitching is the FASTEST way to lug a motor and burn up the powerhead. If any CP member here remembers anything from the good info provided in tis post ... remember that statement IMHO.

Remember too, that any normally aspirated motor develops up to 10% LESS horsepower in the wicked humidity of the summer than it will in the cool weather of the Spring or Fall. Add to that a munged/growthed up running bottom and the boat gets heavier as the season progresses. Then ... they tend to add more gear as the season progresses. More than a few times each summer, someone from my boat club will say "I used to be able to run her up to 5300 (or say 5800) RPMs, but now I can only get up to barely 5K (or say 5500) RPMs. They don't realize that the air is thinner as the temps and humidity goes up. Case in point, that's why helicopter performance suffered in the heat of Vietnam or in the deserts of Iraq.

As far a setting up the engine is concerned I believe most dealers also set them too low in the transom or bracket.

Ditto! I agree 110% with you there!

 

[grouperjim]

Well said.

I have been thinking long and hard about the fuel tank position on the 23 DV hull.

Something that FishFactory said in another post to Capt. Ronnie sudenly struck me, FF said something like "why dont you cut tankage off the back then" or something to that effect to change CG. Well, I remember an old Ford truck that had dual selectable tanks. Since the 150 gal rectangular tank cannot be moved any further forward, then why not partition the existing tank into two separate 75 gal tanks. Keep the forward tank full for GP running around. Fill both for the long range fishing trip. Burn off the aft tank first. Now that would be one way to "sailor proof" the weight and balance issue with the 2310 and 2320. I know that is not going to happen on my boat, but that might be very feasible for a future Parker redesign, or retrofit if the deck has to come up for whatever reason.

Anyone have any comments on that?

jim

 

[JWL]

I did say under propped when, in fact, I meant over propped.

I have corrected the error in my orginal reply. Thanks for pointing that out as I wouldn't want people to increase the pitch when it should be reduced. Again, thanks

 

[grouperjim]

Hello JWL:

At the risk of sounding defensive which is not my intention, I try to make only very specific statements, comments or recommendations with regard to boats that I have actually owned and learned about through trial and error, or in some instances, extensive research. My only intention or purpose for these posts is to try keep others for making the mistakes ($$) that I have made.

Another reason for these posts is purely selfish in that since I retired, and I am home raising our first child (9 mo. old) while my younger wife works, I have way too much time on my hands, and find great pleasure talking with guys like you about my favorite subject.

jim

 

[Lucky John]

My complaint right now is the fact I'm not going to be able to use my boat much for the next couple of months.I was out fishing on monday,second time down to the bottom and I try to hook a fish.My leg then buckles out from under me like I was either shot or hit in thigh with an axe.Looks like I ruptured my quadricep in my right leg,probable surgery and long recoup.Words cannot describe how upset I am.

 

[JWL]

You, in no way, sounded defensive to me. I also enjoy trying to share my years of boatin with those who may not have the experience, read age, I have. There are many much more knowledge than I, and I continue to learn from them.

 

[Wicho]

Hello JWL:

Another reason for these posts is purely selfish in that since I retired, and I am home raising our first child (9 mo. old) while my younger wife works, I have way too much time on my hands, and find great pleasure talking with guys like you about my favorite subject.

jim

Jim.. We have more in common than the 23 DV.... I have an 8 month old!

Sorry folks... back to the subject at hand!

 

[grouperjim]

There are many much more knowledge than I, and I continue to learn from them.

Ditto!


Lucky John:

Sorry to hear about the leg. How did the fish make out!? Sometimes the beast on the other end gets the better of us.

William:

I guess we are in the same boat...pardon the pun.

jim :wink:

 

[Lucky John]

Well after I hooked the fish I was going down for the count.I almost lost the rod overboard,but managed to keep it inside the boat,the blackfish took me in the wreck while i was wondering what happened to me.
Looks like operation within the next 10 days or so..............

 

[Stank Bait]

And just why do they call you Lucky John?

 

[Lucky John]

Well it used to be because I always caught BIG fish,but I guess my luck has run out this time.Definite tear of the quadricep tendon,not looking good for me.Looks like I might be walking again any day in ............Sept

 

[Outta Here]

Of course, I run a mod-V lowly 14-degree deadrise hull. My best is about 40mph with a 225hp dirty 2-stroke on the stern. Once I had 10 people aboard, most sitting up back. With the extra 6-7 bodies @ say 140 pounds average ... yup, still hit 40 mph!

Bingo!

All deep-V's are "ass heavy". Deep-V's have less planing surface. Harder to plane, need more HP, require more speed to plane. It's the price we pay for not having to slow down for barge wakes. :wink: You're not gonna get sports car handling out of a deep V tank like Parker or Regulator. Same with Carolina Classic or Albemarle.

Come to think of it...not bad company to be in.

 

[Capt. Ronnie]

A common thread: PARKERS ARE ASS HEAVY.

Wow, now that's one complaint I never heard about the 25' models. I make a point to add weight to the stern, as she runs much better with weight back there.

Of course, I run a mod-V lowly 14-degree deadrise hull. My best is about 40mph with a 225hp dirty 2-stroke on the stern. Once I had 10 people aboard, most sitting up back. With the extra 6-7 bodies @ say 140 pounds average ... yup, still hit 40 mph!

Dale,
The tank in the 23 is mounted much farther back than in the 25 models !
I've been making this complaint about my 2320 since day 1

I put a few knives at the front corners and a few spools at the back corners to show the location.
2 pics show the batteries down inside the transom and another pic shows the hatch in the deck just behind the pilot house door.





I finally had a chance to snap some pics of the location of my gas tank.

 

[Outta Here]

You have 2 tanks? One port and one starboard?

Wonder how the fuel hose is routed? No inspection plates over hose to tank connections? No inspection plates at sending unit connections?

Very different than Parker cc's. All I have seen have 1 tank running centerline. Inspection plate at rear for s.u. and inspection plate in front for vent/fill connection. Never seen a Parker with storage hold in center of deck.

Not an inexpensive answer, but if nothing else works, cut deck and change for centerline tank app. 145 gallon running from cabin step-down to about 3' from transom.

 

[Capt. Ronnie]

You have 2 tanks? One port and one starboard?

Wonder how the fuel hose is routed? No inspection plates over hose to tank connections? No inspection plates at sending unit connections?

Very different than Parker cc's. All I have seen have 1 tank running centerline. Inspection plate at rear for s.u. and inspection plate in front for vent/fill connection. Never seen a Parker with storage hold in center of deck.

Not an inexpensive answer, but if nothing else works, cut deck and change for centerline tank app. 145 gallon running from cabin step-down to about 3' from transom.

1 single (large) 150 gal tank
the round inspection covers in the deck are 2 for the tank
the other just behind the bowman aluminum/ stainless (large) hatch cover is for that front below deck compartment.
When the boat was new, where that bowman hatch is, there was a contained molded to the deck and had a hindged hatch (same color as the dect) there.
It was only about 7-8 inched deep and pretty much useless to store anything!
After popping the round hatch off and finding out how big that space was down below and it was completely sealed off with bulkheads, I cut out the container and installed that bowman hatch.
But back to my point,
there is close to 4ft that the gas tank could be moved forward!!!

 

[Megabyte]

I agree with FishFactory.
Your layout is unlike any other Parker I've ever seen. Are you the original owner?

Here is a view of the deck in my 2520 MVSC (14 degrees deadrise).

You can see 5 of the 6 inspection plates (#6 is in front of the PH 'door').
My boat has 3 fuel tanks. The main tank is 127 gals according to the tank label, and the 2 wing tanks are 47 gals each.

This photo shows the forward part of the deck. The hatch near the PH door has the fuel fill and vent lines below for the main fuel tank.
The other two deck hatches seen in this photo are the fuel fill and vent hatches for the 2 wing tanks which you can also see in the top photo.

Each fuel tank has 2 inspection hatches. The ones aft give access to the fuel pickups and tank level gages. The hatches forward give access to the fill and vent lines.
All three of my tanks are long and narrow.

You can see the deck hatch near the transom (between the wing tanks) that gives access to the batteries, bilge pumps, and raw water washdown valve. The main fuel tank is forward of the batteries and runs up to the PH bulkhead.

These photos show into that aft hatch. The view on the left is looking aft towards the transom, the one on the right is looking forward. The rear of the main fuel tank is forward of the battery bulkhead.

I'd be interested to know if any other CP member has the same setup as you have.

FishFactory is correct that reconfiguring your fuel tank forward is a fairly simple process, but it would involve cutting the deck and having a new tank fabricated. You could remove the forward storage box and configure your fuel tank and battery compartment to mimic the 2520, though you'd certainly have to accept less than the 150 gal capacity you have now.

My suggestion would be to call the factory with your HIN and ask is they have a set of as-built drawings on your boat (I'd bet that they do).
Next, I'd compare the as-builts to what you have, and see if they match to make certain it hasn't been modified by someone before you bought it.

Once you've done those things, you can decide if reconfiguring the tank and deck to move weight forward is in your budget.

Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

[rangerdog]

No that is the configuration for the 2003 2320DVSC. It is the exact same as mine.

John

 

[Capt. Ronnie]

No that is the configuration for the 2003 2320DVSC. It is the exact same as mine.

John

Thats correct.
I'm the original owner. it's a 2003
The only change I made to the deck was removing the factory container behind the pilot house door and installing the bowman hatch,
Lots of unused storage space down there the way Parker had it set up !!!!

Rangerdog,
with a full tank and few passengers, how is the ride with your 2320 ?
The Rev 4 17 pitch prop made a huge difference for me, and in my opinion, the 24 wide tab plates are a must, though I never tried longer ones..
But I won't fill the tank to more than 100 gals again !
The rating decal on the boat list 9 passenger cap max (or 1200 lbs ?)
with full tank of gas and 9 passengers, I would need everyone to sit up on the bow !!!
I would like to see a pic posted of the location of the tank on the newer 2320 to compare to mine.

 

[Outta Here]

No wonder you comment that your boat is heavy in stern.

Either your tank is a very thin "pancake" or there is a large area (size of tank) that is open without stringers. The cc has stringers about 2' apart, and again, a 145 gallon tank running front to 3' or so from transom.

Does anyone think Parker grossly over-balances their hulls to avoid the dreaded pitchpole and or burying the bow?

 

[Its4Reels!-Parker23]

In the p`house, there is a 40qt Icey-Tek for beverages that remains stocked 24/7 for the season. :wink:

The 40 qt Icey-Tek...

Only a 40 qt? It would be empty by mid-morning I went with the 170 qt.