I'm considering adding a battery charger/shore power to my 2006 Parker 2520XL......Charger would be utilized for deep cycle and starter battery. Has anyone completed this upgrade....any suggestions on selection of battery charger ? Thanks
Battery Charger/Shore Power
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I installed Noco chargers
What's your budget and current switch setup?
knotflying
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There are a multitude of charges to choose from. I like Xantrex or Promariner. Go with the largest amperage, which will give you the fastest charge. Also keep in mind that once you connect to shore power that it is important that you have proper bonding to all underwater metals. I would also install a galvanic isolator. You should also install, per ABYC and ELCI, which is similar to a ground fault protector. So long story short, there is more involved than just installing a charger for it to be a proper installation. Many people will also opt to use a typical automotive battery charger and hook it up when needed. This is not a good situation. Boats around you may also take issue with it. There is the potential of causing galvanic corrosion to you neighbor's boat and the event of stray current in the water.
Unless you have a need for a shore power system other than just to power the battery charger, your best bet is to install a pre-wired charger. This is a permanently mounted charger that comes pre-made with a standard 120v 3-prong outlet plug, that will connect to any extension cord. This does not require you to install any of the other AC system components mentioned above.
I tend to prefer the ProMariner ProSport HD line of chargers.
I tend to prefer the ProMariner ProSport HD line of chargers.
Great information, thank you Mike, my plan is to have the project completed in the Spring.....the battery switch is located under the aft deck ( a bit of a nuisance,) I'd like to relocate the battery switch as part of this project.....Is your battery switch and charger located above the deck ?
I also became quickly annoyed with the battery switch located in the aft bilge, so I found a solution. See my previous project post called "BEP Cluster".
I have not full completed this yet because I'm busy, but I did recently run the wires from the cabin location to the aft bilge area where the batteries are located.
Also, my ProMariner battery charger is located in the aft bilge area where the batteries are, which I am fine with. I don't find it necessary to relocate the batteries and charger forward since I don't have a weight issue and the bilge remains very dry anyway.
warthog5
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Noco is what I install. The new Genius Gen 5......with 10amps per circuit.
Will charge lead acid - AGM - Lithium batteries.
I've moved to these due to some of the name brands are Junk!
Will charge lead acid - AGM - Lithium batteries.
I've moved to these due to some of the name brands are Junk!
knotflying
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My battery switch is above the deck and not in the bilge area.
jnicholasjr
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Placed my switch to aft station. Also installed battery charger inside aft station
Thanks everyone for all the helpful advice, I've been looking at the Noco Genius and looks like that's the direction I'll go
warthog5
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Something that has not been addressed...... The word "Shorepower". That suggests you keep the boat docked..... Power Posts on docks are specific and have a specific plug that a 110V plug will not plug into.
Is this the case?
Is this the case?
Good point.....Yes I do keep it in a slip....I'll check that today.....
As long as it’s a 120v system, there are adapters available. Example: Marinco Pigtail Adapter - 15a Female To 30a Male
knotflying
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But keep in mind that once you connect to a marina pedestal you are connected to everyone else's ground. This is why I mentioned installing a galvanic isolator and making sure all metal in the water is bonded. Without proper bonding and an isolator you can have galvanic corrosion happen rather quickly. If you do not want to go that route, I would only connect while charging and when charged up disconnect.
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Post an update l. Several variables involved
If you’re solely installing a pre-wired charger, the AC to DC ground link is not required as per ABYC standards. Hence, no additional risk of galvanic corrosion. Couldn’t install a GI if you wanted, actually; the pre-wired cord with installed cord doesn’t give you the option.
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I went with a NOCO Genius 3 bank. It has been great for many moons.
We just received a notice from our marina that specifically cautions against 15 amp extension cords from the pedestal to the boat. Our marina has 30 amp service to each sportboat slip. I had used a Marinco adapter plug to go from the breaker outlet to an extension cord to the boat where it would plug into a 15 amp receptacle. Marina did not like that set up. They are advising that extension cords are for temporary use such as for running a power tool while doing in-slip repairs. They cite the risk of fire and that a large portion of boating fires involve extension cords.
Of course, I see quite a few commercial fishing boats in my marina that regularly use 15 amp extension cords while at dock for extended periods and they appear to be using them for living purposes, not temporary repairs...
In any case, I don't want to be the source of any fire. I now run a 30 amp cord from the breaker box to the boat, where I use an adapter to plug into a Marinco inlet that feeds the charger. I haven't asked but I hope this satisfies my marina and I do not have to install a 30 amp inlet plus distribution panel on the boat...
John on Chubasco
Fire Hazards and Risk Factors From Using Household Extension Cords in Harbors and Marinas :
The use of Non-Marine household extension cords to supply shore power to a vessel creates several hazards often overlooked until a problem occurs. The most significant problem is an increased risk of fire when using a small-gauge wire plugged into a 30 or 50 amp receptacle on the dock.
The NEC (National Electric Code) clearly defines the size & type of wiring that must be used for a given size circuit breaker, in order to ensure the breaker will trip off if there is a problem.
There are 3 main issues to consider:
The wire size in the cord must match the size of the circuit breaker the wire is connected to. The dock 30 amp breakers WILL NOT trip if a small 16gauge or 18gauge cord is plugged into it. Even with a small load like a dehumidifier or battery charger, if there is an electrical fault or short circuit at the boat end, the small cord will not carry enough current to turn off the breaker; the cord simply overheats until it catches fire. This has been documented many times as the cause of a catastrophic fire.
The extension cords typically used are not made of corrosion proof materials, all of the prongs, receptacle blades, and even the wires are made from bare copper or plated steel, which quickly corrodes and causes excess heat to form. Even proper marine grade cord fittings suffer from corrosion, house-hold cords fail at a much higher rate.
Most extension cords are not rated for constant outdoor exposure; particularly the outer insulation. While the outer jacket MAY last a year or two, most typically do not, leaving the inner conductors exposed within a relatively short time.
If boatowners want to use an extension cord plugged into a 30 amp dock receptacle, the cord needs to have at least #10AWG conductors. A [30amp to 15 amp] unitized 1 part adapter at
the appliance end can be used to connect the 30 amp cord to the heater or charger. This is considerably safer than using a small cord plugged into a large breaker.
The requirement to prohibit the use of household extension cords has been forced upon both boatowners and harbors by insurance carriers in many cases. In addition, many harbors have been banning the use of [30 amp to 15 amp] or [50 amp to 30 amp] pigtail adapters, for the same reasons noted above. A 30 amp device plugged into a 50 amp breaker will overheat before the breaker trips.
The use of extension cords should be limited to temporary, attended use only, for power tools or other supervised applications; never for unattended or long-term use in a marina.
We just received a notice from our marina that specifically cautions against 15 amp extension cords from the pedestal to the boat. Our marina has 30 amp service to each sportboat slip. I had used a Marinco adapter plug to go from the breaker outlet to an extension cord to the boat where it would plug into a 15 amp receptacle. Marina did not like that set up. They are advising that extension cords are for temporary use such as for running a power tool while doing in-slip repairs. They cite the risk of fire and that a large portion of boating fires involve extension cords.
Of course, I see quite a few commercial fishing boats in my marina that regularly use 15 amp extension cords while at dock for extended periods and they appear to be using them for living purposes, not temporary repairs...
In any case, I don't want to be the source of any fire. I now run a 30 amp cord from the breaker box to the boat, where I use an adapter to plug into a Marinco inlet that feeds the charger. I haven't asked but I hope this satisfies my marina and I do not have to install a 30 amp inlet plus distribution panel on the boat...
John on Chubasco
Fire Hazards and Risk Factors From Using Household Extension Cords in Harbors and Marinas :
The use of Non-Marine household extension cords to supply shore power to a vessel creates several hazards often overlooked until a problem occurs. The most significant problem is an increased risk of fire when using a small-gauge wire plugged into a 30 or 50 amp receptacle on the dock.
The NEC (National Electric Code) clearly defines the size & type of wiring that must be used for a given size circuit breaker, in order to ensure the breaker will trip off if there is a problem.
There are 3 main issues to consider:
The wire size in the cord must match the size of the circuit breaker the wire is connected to. The dock 30 amp breakers WILL NOT trip if a small 16gauge or 18gauge cord is plugged into it. Even with a small load like a dehumidifier or battery charger, if there is an electrical fault or short circuit at the boat end, the small cord will not carry enough current to turn off the breaker; the cord simply overheats until it catches fire. This has been documented many times as the cause of a catastrophic fire.
The extension cords typically used are not made of corrosion proof materials, all of the prongs, receptacle blades, and even the wires are made from bare copper or plated steel, which quickly corrodes and causes excess heat to form. Even proper marine grade cord fittings suffer from corrosion, house-hold cords fail at a much higher rate.
Most extension cords are not rated for constant outdoor exposure; particularly the outer insulation. While the outer jacket MAY last a year or two, most typically do not, leaving the inner conductors exposed within a relatively short time.
If boatowners want to use an extension cord plugged into a 30 amp dock receptacle, the cord needs to have at least #10AWG conductors. A [30amp to 15 amp] unitized 1 part adapter at
the appliance end can be used to connect the 30 amp cord to the heater or charger. This is considerably safer than using a small cord plugged into a large breaker.
The requirement to prohibit the use of household extension cords has been forced upon both boatowners and harbors by insurance carriers in many cases. In addition, many harbors have been banning the use of [30 amp to 15 amp] or [50 amp to 30 amp] pigtail adapters, for the same reasons noted above. A 30 amp device plugged into a 50 amp breaker will overheat before the breaker trips.
The use of extension cords should be limited to temporary, attended use only, for power tools or other supervised applications; never for unattended or long-term use in a marina.
