battery issues

[stripbait]

whats the difference between the bep system an the blue sea si acr system witch one is better iam trying to decide the factory just has a perko switch ithink the bluesea switch would fit in same holes that are there already whats your advise

 

[jeffnick]

Didn't know there was a commercial unit available -- thanks, now I know it's a sound practice. But at $170 I'd be tempted to make my own.
Here's all the circuitry in one package for $7.60.
http://www.amazon.com/Absolute-Holder-R ... ds=ARSPACK

Here's a battery @ $40...
http://www.amazon.com/BikeMaster-TruGel ... A405973011


And someone mentioned ACR's. if you aren't concerned about appearance, this (mechanical) ACR has been totally reliable on my boat for over 8 years...in fact I have two of them to combine all three batteries.
http://yandina.com/c100InfoR3.htm
http://72land-n-sea.blogspot.com/2015/0 ... eries.html

Yandinas can be easily wired to force combine or force non-combine, but the 20 second delayed reaction time wouldn't allow it to be used to isolate the electronics during starting...the delay keeps them from 'chattering'.

 

[warthog5]

whats the difference between the bep system an the blue sea si acr system witch one is better iam trying to decide the factory just has a perko switch ithink the bluesea switch would fit in same holes that are there already whats your advise

Both work...... The Blue Seas take up more room.....Why ? Because it uses more cabling.... That cabling can only turn in a certain radius.

The BEP is a Cluster that is integrated together...It uses Buss bars to connect..... This takes up less room and looks neater.

This is what a typical BEP Cluster looks like for single engine and 2 batteries.

The mounted fuse holder puts power to the float bilge pump float switch. The Circuit Breaker is there to protect the main cabling of the house circuitry.

 

[warthog5]

Here is what I see in a typical Blue Seas ACR install.

On the Battery Switch itself...... Are you Ever really Sure which Battery is #1 and which Battery is #2 ?

 

[stripbait]

I got it warthog now I have a windless an radar furuno585 and garman 4208 I should put this on house side an leave bilge pump on start side correct now I have a circuit breaker on windless already so a 40 or 50 breaker for the other things should be good thanks for all your help when I get done I take some picks if I can figure how to put them up on here

 

[warthog5]

FYI....... I put the Windless on the Start battery..... Why? A windless is not supposed to be used to pull the boat around.... just retrieve the anchor rode.

Therefore the motor will be running and used to move the boat.... IN & OUT of gear. The alt on the motor will be supplying 14.2V to the battery.... This will also make the windless perform well.

A windless can pull a bunch of amps. They are usually setup with a dedicated 50amp breaker. I also install a mini ON/OFF switch for that circuit.

It's just my thoughts and the way I do it.

 

[stripbait]

I have a circuit breaker that I just push to stop the circuit to windless I just found out that my engine has the option to charge both start battery an house icalled the dealer told them what I was going to do the Yamaha tech say there a option to wire to both batterys I said it doesn't say it in the book from Yamaha he showed me wire diagram in there factory book so I guess I don't need all of these isolator has everyone heard of this its news to me he says that all the bigger engines have this option I say then they should wire it from factory then so I guess u can charge both batterys I so confused now the dealer is in manehawkin nj

 

[warthog5]

I have a circuit breaker that I just push to stop the circuit to windless I just found out that my engine has the option to charge both start battery an house icalled the dealer told them what I was going to do the Yamaha tech say there a option to wire to both batterys I said it doesn't say it in the book from Yamaha he showed me wire diagram in there factory book so I guess I don't need all of these isolator has everyone heard of this its news to me he says that all the bigger engines have this option I say then they should wire it from factory then so I guess u can charge both batterys I so confused now the dealer is in manehawkin nj

Yes that's true and has been around for years.

But there still needs to be a way to turn the Start and House batteries ON & Off Independently. A Perko Switch does not do that.

 

[stripbait]

can I add just another on an off switch for that battery or should I just do the bep set up the cheapest I found that cluster is 189 at defender plus shipping I got my buddy ck on price for me I saw on ebay but I think its the older model it says dvsm not dvsr were do u buy ur clusters thanks again for all ur help

 

[warthog5]

This thread has gotten really broad now and other ideas have been injected.... The 2nd charge circuit has been entered into the thread.

That charge wire with factory connector is about $40. It goes thru your rubber groment at the front of the motor and thru the rigging tube.

If you have ever messed with the gromment you know...EVERYTHING has to lay perfect.... Bottom line it's a PITA.

Why do I push the BEP Cluster ? It's Easy.... It's Exact [you know exactly which battery you are in control of] It's Clean .. Nice tight, compact setup and install. Easy to manually combine the batteries for a jump start. Think of combine switch as built in jumper cables.

You can't say that for other setups. Yes Defender is where I buy them.

 

[stripbait]

thanks so much warthog for ur help I just order the bep switch like u said its a clean install an easy as soon as the weather breaks I be doing the install iam not going to waste my time trying to fish that charge wire like u said

 

[Ludicrous40]

Hey Stripbait, All the right guys have responded. I had similar issues with my system, but in the end I did find a bad ground connection right on one of the batteries. The copper was completed corroded under the heatshrink, which I wouldn't expect in a 2013, mine is 2003.

I use a bunch of "house "power on the hook so this is what I did over 2 years:

Added BEP cluster switch
Added an additional house battery(now I have a starting battery (Gp25) and 2 deepcycles (Gp27)
Added a shore power connection
Added a guest 2 bank charger for the deep cycles
Installed the original Perko switch (1,2,both) between the house batteries and the BEP cluster. That gives me the option to use either 1, 2, or both house batteries. But this also allows me to shut them off so that the guest charger can charge them independently when the boat isn't in use.

The cluster switch is awesome, my starting battery is always fully charged, and now I have a backup house battery that is always fully charged. Only thing I need now is the small Honda generator that I'll connect directly to the Shore Power connection for overnights.

 

[warthog5]

but in the end I did find a bad ground connection right on one of the batteries. The copper was completed corroded under the heatshrink, which I wouldn't expect in a 2013, mine is 2003.

Are the battery ends bare copper like this?

Replace with good tinned ends.

BEP Original :

BEP Rework :

Get rid of the Automotive ends.

 

[stripbait]

iam surprised that they use auto connectors for marine use ijust received my cluster today now time to update it

 

[warthog5]

I know .....Right....

I tried to call them on it....to No avail.