Burning oil 2015 F300 UCA

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Lucky John

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Jan 3, 2007
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Location
Manahawkin,NJ
My engine has been running perfectly, however back in August when I did my oil changes I noticed I was a little over 2 quarts low. I thought maybe I didn't put the correct amount in on the previous change. When my mechanic came yesterday to winterize me we found that I was again 2 quarts low ( I did add an additional 1/2 quart in Sept). I have put 190 hours since the August change. I haven't noticed any scheen on the water or any other possible leaks. I broke the engine in with dino oil with the correct procedure and then switched over to syn oil. I have now switched back over to dino oil and will keep a close eye on it.
I now have 1600 hours on this engine and have been doing all the required maint but I am thinking I will use it one more season and repower with a new 300. Hopefully by the end of next season I will still be able to get a few thousand back.
I know the 300 has a history of making oil, but has anyone noticed them burning oil lately?
 
The thermostats are changed every other year when I do the water pump. We couldn't come up with a reason yesterday. He is going to do a water pump in the spring and will do a compression check on lower unit, change pcv filters and go from there.
 
I’ve read some owners with higher hour engines use a thicker oil. Just a idea [emoji2373]


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I put in regular dino oil yesterday and will continue to do so. I am going to keep a close eye on it. Since my warranty is over and price of the syn oil is 50 per gallon which is nearly double I was going to switch anyway.
 
As a data point my 2015 300s (200 hrs) have been flawless. I use Yamalube.

The only way I can get the dipstick to read low is if I pull it without breaking the seal in the dipstick tube first.
 
Lucky John, wow, sorry to hear. My only point of reference is:

My 2016 2520 with single 300 'made' oil when I traded her in at the end of the first season, almost 2 qts high
My 2017 2820 with twin 300s have not had an oil issue up or down, I used an aggressive break-in procedure after the 'making oil' issue with my 2016.

To your credit, that's a significant amount of hours in 4 years enjoying your boat, let us know what develops.

take care
John
 
Hi, I probably should have stated "a more aggressive break-in procedure than I used on my previous 300"


I'd have to go look in the folder, I wrote it down, but my feeling was that I babied the single 300 on my 2016 2520 too much which lead to the 'making oil' issue later. The break-in I used on the (2) 300s on my 2820 went something like this:

1st hour limited to 2000 rpm
2nd hour = just enough throttle to plane the boat, with small up and down rpm increases every ~5 minutes
Next 8 hours = run the boat normally and give it 3-4 minutes of full throttle (almost 60 mph) every ~15-30 minutes or so. I did this over a 3-day period so the motors would go through multiple thermal cycles.

I piece I omitted on my single 300 that made oil was that I really never ran the boat hard during the 8 hour period, I did full throttle for a few seconds and only a few times during that period and suspect the rings didn't seat properly.

I think I'm at around 185 hours now on my twins, no oil issues up or down.

thanks
John
 
You guys need to use your boats more LOL. This was my 5th season on the 2520 and have averaged about 350 hr/yr. When I sold my 2120 after 7 seasons to bump up I had 1876 hrs. My dealer who took it in on trade sold it in one day when he took the shrink wrapping off in the spring. Hopefully my mechanic figures out what's going on in the spring. I just want to feel comfortale when I leave the dock at 1 am on my way to the canyon for tuna. :mrgreen:
 
I'm going to try to make up for it this coming year. I've missed months and months of fishing over the last 2 years due to illness. Good luck, let us know what happens..
 
Yea....Lots of people Baby them to much.....It's a Hell of an investment.

I follow the Suzuki Break in for all and any engines. It will not let me copy/paste here.

The key that is not stated....Is altering the RPM. Don't just set it at 4000RPM [this is after several hours] and ride around. Bring the RPM Down....Run it back up.
The idea is you want to Load the rings...That's what seats them in and changing RPM to load the engine is how you do it. Doesn't mater what brand it is.
 
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