electronics resetting on engine start

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Claymar

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Oceanside, Ca.
I posted in a previous topic asking if any one had a wiring diagram and suggestions on a house battery setup with no takers.

Found a wiring diagram so that subject is now moot. Thought I would try a new tack on the house battery subject as I might not be clear on what I'm asking for help on.

Problem is that when I start the engine or use my windless my electronics all shut down and reset. Its a real pain especially with radar as it takes up to 2 minutes for it to power down and back up again.

Im trying to avoid a third battery setup due to space limitations. Could put it in the bilge but have a bait pump and hoses taking the bulk of available space. My preferance would be to adapt the present 2 battery setup.

I think I have a 'stock' Parker setup on the 2120 SC , two batteries wired to a Guest switch for 1, 2 or both.

Ideas??
 
I'm no expert but I instaled a third house battery for electronics. I got an auto voltage sensor (I think thats what its called?). Tell the battery which one is lo and shifts the charge to the low battery. It's late right now, I'll try and take some pictures mana.
 
Claymar,

I have the same problem. Both my chartplotter and GPS shut down with a key start but not my sounder or VHF. And, this happens ONLY when the batt switch is on #2. It's fine if on #1. Weird. I'd LOVE to find an easy fix for this. It's funny, I do not remember this ever happening when it was new but I can't be sure. New batts don't help either.
 
I have the same issue with a 2007 21SE. But mine resets only on battery #1
 
I imagine the electronics are shutting down due to a voltage drop when you start your engine.

If the problem is only occuring on one battery and not the other, then there is a voltage drop being introduced into your system when you crank the engine. The voltage drop can be caused by a weak battery, a bad connection to the battery, corroded wiring, or a bad battery switch.

Since the wiring is common from the battery switch to the starter motor, the problem must be from the battery switch to the batteries -- assuming it problem only occurs on one battery.

However, if the ground connection between the two batteries is bad, this can also cause the same problem.

Here is how I would troubleshoot:

1) Remove the connections from both batteries, get some sandpaper and make sure that all the terminals have clean contact surfaces and that there isn't any corrosion. If any of the terminals were obviously corroded, or you found that one of the battery nuts was slightly loose, try cleaning them up and re-tightening the connections to see if that fixes the problem. I'll let Dale give his wing-nuts versus lock-nuts schpiel :)

2) While the battery cables are disconnected, swap battery 1 with battery 2 and see if the problem follows the battery or stays with position 1/2 of the switch.

3) If the problem follows the battery, then you have isolated the problem to that battery. If the problem is with the battery that isn't directly connected to the negative lead from the engine, the problem could also be the wire connecting the negative terminals between the two batteries.

4) If the problem stays with the position of the switch (for example position 1), the next thing I would do is remove the switch and swap the wires so that the wire for battery 1 is going to the switch connection for battery 2 and vice-versa.

5) If the problem still occurs in position 1, then you have eliminated the wires between the battery and the switch, in addition to the batteries.

6) The only thing left is the switch itself. If you have a buddy with a similar switch, easiest thing to do is try swapping it out and see if it fixes the problem.

7) If you have (and know how to use) a voltmeter, you can also troubleshoot the problem with it. I would measure the voltage at the battery terminals and see what happens to the voltage when you crank the engine. Compare the voltages on the two batteries to see if there is much of a difference between them, both when they are sitting idle, and when the engine is being cranked.

8) If the voltages are similar, you could then measure the voltage at the switch terminals and compare the two batteries to see if there is a difference between the two.

9) Keep working your way towards the starter motor, comparing voltages between the two batteries until something doesn't look right.

-- Tom
 
Claymar":1eshhuba said:
I think I have a 'stock' Parker setup on the 2120 SC , two batteries wired to a Guest switch for 1, 2 or both.
Click to expand...

If they are standard group 24 batteries, your present load may now exceed what those batteries can give you, especially if they have some age on them.

Run through Toms suggestions, and if you discover the batteries aren't able to keep up with the load, consider an upgrade. If you don't have room for a third battery, moving up to Group 27 or Group 31's might be an option for you.
 
Kevin is on the mark.

I had a similar problem with the OEM group 27 batteries. The problem wasn't present when the batteries were new and strong, but with age, they lost capacity. When they had lost enough capacity, the electronics would reset
when I cranked the starboard engine (where the house battery is located).

I was able to get a little back by cleaning the battery posts and cables, but only for a short time.

Finally went to group 31 batteries and have never had the problem return. I keep the posts and cables clean, but the group 31 batteries have enough reserve capacity that even when drawn down a bit, they still have enough punch to keep the electronics from resetting.

Dave

aka
 
TimC2520":zn0y8dx1 said:
Both my chartplotter and GPS shut down with a key start but not my sounder or VHF. And, this happens ONLY when the batt switch is on #2. It's fine if on #1. Weird.
Click to expand...
Do a continuity check on the battery cable to and fro Battery switch position #2 ans you might find high resistance in those lines, but not in those for #1 position.

OB starters pull down peak 230 amps while starting, so if any wire/cable is less than perfect ... or maginally sized ... other items in the circuit will be pulled down while cranking.
 
Great information, and thanks much for the replies.

I do have the standard type 24's that came with the boat. I dont recall that I had the problem when it was new, but always had a shut down with the windless turning so low voltage is a high probability.

I was just on the boat in the backyard with all the electronics turned on and each battery dropped to 12.8 volts form a full charge in about 10 minutes. Time to upgrade.
 
FWIW I upgraded my group 24's to group 27's this year in hopes that my electronics would not shut down while starting the F225 engine. The upgrade did not achieve non shutting down electronics. All of my electronics are Furuno. My next course of action is to add a 3rd house battery, as it stinks to loose power to the electronics. I cant imagine it being very good for them.
If I had to do it again I would probably try the group 31's.
 
really strange, neither my current 2320 or 2300 ever caused the electrics to reset.......even after running the livewell and position light all night long......i know the batts were a bit drained on start. :?:
 
Claymar":cgwx6p0f said:
I was just on the boat in the backyard with all the electronics turned on and each battery dropped to 12.8 volts form a full charge in about 10 minutes. Time to upgrade.
Click to expand...

That's impossible ... as a typical lead/acid battery reads 12.65 VDC at a full charge, per an accurate voltmeter. If you're reading your volt gauge ... that's why you're off.

Also note, one must wait a minimum of 8-hours or more after charging a battery before you can read any accurate and reliable value, due to surface effects from the charging process.

Upgrading your battery size will cure the SYMPTOM, but may not cure the root cause ... i.e., verify the integrity of your existing wiring.
 
I don’t know how your set-up is now, but it does not sound like your electronics system is isolated from your starting system. When you turn the key it should have no affect on your electronics unless you only have one battery.

I would definitely set it up so you have a starting bank and a separate house bank. I would hook all your electronics up to the house bank except your windless. I hooked my windless up to the starting bank as they draw the same type of load and you should be running the engine when you’re pulling the hook anyway. You could buy the auxiliary charging cord from Yamaha or use an isolator or combiner to charge everything. I went with the auxiliary charging cord. It will end up being about the same price but I like Yamaha’s quality better. Also, if you have the space, I would replace one with a bigger deep cycle battery for the house bank side.

My two cents is, do it right so you can forget about it!

Good luck,
 
Tim - I had a problem with my C-80 when I started the boat. I solved the problem by installying a Start Guard. When I turn the key, the battery in the start guard prevents the voltage drop.

Brad
 
optimaxfish":24np0f2m said:
if your motor(s) are off why would one leave electronics on? :?
Click to expand...

I leave my VHF on in the event someone makes a distress call that I might assist.

I leave my FF on when I fish a drift to see what's underneath me.
 
optimaxfish":3thxkbe0 said:
if your motor(s) are off why would one leave electronics on? :?
Click to expand...

That is the way I fish 90% of the time. Most of my fishing time is spent drifting over oyster beds and other structure. I watch the bottom machine to determine when it is time to make another circle to the up wind/current side of the structure.

But when you do that, you need a larger capacity house battery or two of them in parallel with isolators between them.

Dave

aka
 
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