Garmin 741XS Thru Hull Transducer 2310 DeepVee 1991 Parker

[JET O_Wey]

I'm looking at the Garmin 741XS and not sure on matching transducer with some chirp technology ability. Called Garmin and Airmar but still left unsure (seem model new so not a ton of expertise yet.) I was thinking of Airmar B150M model # 14862437.

Seeking out fish and new spots is key, often off shore but costal too.
I can really only afford about $300 for the ducer.

I want to make sure this is a good match, would not rule out a thru hull plastic either. Temp desired.

Now concerning placement on the parker, I’m thinking the flat area of the hull near the transom. Decent access near the rear bilge. The Parker I believe is 21 degrees, but does that change things when mounting on the flat area of the hull? I saw on one site that Parker advised zero degrees and then others are saying I need an angled ducer. I’m confused the most on what angle ducer. Seems hard to find them in stock too on both the unit and ducer.
Any ideas appreciated.
JET

 

[warthog5]

Depends on a lot of things. That machine is all over the place.

Sonar Features & Specifications
Dual-frequency (50/200 kHz) sonar capable Yes
Dual-beam (77/200 kHz) sonar capable Yes
Frequencies supported 50/77/200 kHz, CHIRP (low, medium, high), DownVü
Transmit power 1 kW traditional; 600 W CHIRP

 

[JET O_Wey]

Thanks harthog5 was actually hoping to hear from you. No one in my area has the unit but guess can find it BUT the proper ducer not so sure. how about what ducer and where to obtain.

Thanks for responding-

jt

 

[kidfreediver]

I bought the same transducer and have a 14 degree hull they have three airmar b150m to pick from 0, 12, 20 degree. I would find what degree ur 91' hull is. My transducer is still on back order but should be here first part of June. I got the 12 because there is a range on them for dead rise which it goes up to 16 degrees so I'm covered on my hull can't wait to see the detail picture it brings. By the way I'm running lowrance

 

[JET O_Wey]

Back-order is a concern too
Hull 21 degrees but has the flat bottom part of the hull as noted in original email and still same questions.

 

[kidfreediver]

Show a picture of where u r going to mount it. I have a 2530 with no flat bottom. Hard to picture

 

[JET O_Wey]

What angle and location and model transducer???

We have pictures! (they are small to meet the size requirments - could not get the resizer software on the computer I'm on)

Thanks for any ideas.

JET

 

[JET O_Wey]

I believe I'll be going with zero degrees, now concerned with getting the correct ducer for the Garmin 741SX. Are there any 600w in the $ 300-400 price range with entry level chirp?

 

[kidfreediver]

No 600w or high frequency just 300w medium frequency. Airmar b150m 0degree 8 pin.
31-746-1-02 mfg. part no. Garmin part no 010-11927-20. This is for a garmin xs series

 

[kidfreediver]

It's good for 2500ft and it's around $380

 

[JET O_Wey]

How can I measure how think the hull is in my proposed location? The pics of the ducer show an overall length of 3.3 inches less what will be used to thread the hull nut.

My Parker is a fiberglass solid composite?

Thanks all

 

[warthog5]

My Parker is a fiberglass solid composite?

Yes it is solid glass.

 

[grouperjim]

Your bilge pump and float switch are screwed into a raised glassed in (1/2 inch) piece of plywood. There is a small air gap under the wood. Forward of that where it looks like you want to put the transducer is solid glass right around 1/2 inch thickness. Some DV Parker hulls have a raised built-in battery shelf directly in front of the plywood that can be trimmed back for access to make more room for bigger transducers. Yours looks to be good to go. Some guys just cut a hole directly through the plywood to gain access to the glass.

You have a notched transom. Any thru hull component directly in front of the motor foot will impart some disturbed water into the prop. Having said that, you may be able to get away with a low profile transducer without affecting prop performance too much. I personally would recommend a "shoot thru" for the flat pad location. Smoothest water on the hull and a shoot thru will give you a clear screen shot to WOT with no protrusions centerline in front of the prop. This is not so much an issue with the engine set back on a bracket but can be on a notched transom due to the proximity of the disturbance.

Do a search. There have been some pretty amazing "shoot thru" on the pad projects documented on this site.

FYI on the protrusion issue...... bracketed Parker DV hulls with twins have a sizeable bronze scoop mounted in front of the port side engine. This does affect port side prop performance somewhat (ventilation) compared to the stbd side but not significantly. YMMV

 

[WAJSKI]

do a search 2320 thru hull transducer under author wajski I did this install O deg angle works great

 

[JET O_Wey]

Have the unit, ducer, epoxy & sealant.

Does this look like the proper stuff?

Thanks to all those who gave suggesitons.

JET

 

[kidfreediver]

Damn u my hasn't came yet. So jealous

 

[warthog5]

What are you planning on doing with this?

For a clean install I cut the hole....shove the X-ducer in the hole and run a pencil around it, marking the hull. The use 1/4in 3M Fineline tape [BLUE] and then use 3/4in Masking tape [Green]

The Blue tape is placed so that it is 1/8 to 3/16in outside of the pencil line. The face of the X-ducer is taped with 2in tape. A index mark is placed on the tape to point at the keel. The main reason for the tape over the whole face is so no chemicals are used on the face of the X-ducer as noted by the Yellow sticker that comes on them.

You only need this size bead of 4200 Fast sealant on the x-ducer. Use the fast if your going in the water tomorrow, otherwise use the regular 4200. But if you use the Fast you need to have Everything ready and don't be messing around.

You put another bead inside the same size around the stem.

Once Hand tight, as tight as you can get it with both hands and it is seated in the hull. Leave it alone. Don't squeeze the sealant out by wrenching on it.

Now run your finger around the outside to create a fillet of sealant in that 1/8th to 3/16in area clen with Mineral spirits or the proper 3M adhesive remover.
Then peel the tape.

I want you to note, that these pix''s I]ve posted are of 2 different Tilted Element X-ducers. A B-60 and a B-164SS

 

[JET O_Wey]

Thanks Warthog it is a privilege for sure --

What I was planing to use the 3M per Mr. West Marine is to make a gasket; put it on let it set then tighten down.

Summarize your points (I think):

Don't use the 3M sealant i bought - use 4200 regular cure (dam)

Acquire 3M 1/4 fine tape

Acquire 3/4 green masking tape

Acquire 3M general purpose adhesive remover

Money is a big factor after the system purchase yet understand its not a easy reversible maneuver hence have reached out to Dale / Classic Parker.

Note I have plenty of blue painters tape.

Genuine appreciation--- JET

 

[warthog5]

Blue painters tape is fine to replace the Green 3/4in. The Fineline stretches and stick. You get it at a body shop supply house. I use it for this all the time, so I can justify the $10 for it.

I want to give you a few more tips.


Before you do anything. Run the nut up and down the threads on the X-ducer and make sure it spins smoothly. I had one that had a catch in the thread once.....That was a PITA when everything is all gooped up.


Just use mineral spirts on your clean up. That qt of 3M GP cleaner is about $17.....again I can justify, as I do a lot of this stuff.

 

[kidfreediver]

Who did u go thru to get the airmar b150m thru hull transducer. I'm pissed west marine is dicking me around with having to go through navico. I order mine on the 6th of May and there telling me it won't be here tell mid June. Maybe I could order it through ur vendor?