Help with removing washdown thru hull seacock

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tomc585

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After removing all securing hardware use an Oscillating saw just off the floor to cut it loose. A flush blade with a guide plate on the floor will help keep from cutting into the floor.
Have you tried a utility knife?
 

knotflying

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A bit of PB blaster and let it sit overnight. Then the pipe wrench.
 

pelagic2530

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As others have suggested, a pipe wrench is your next best bet. I'd probably have a buddy with another wrench beneath the hull on the scoop fitting, to avoid the possibility of tearing the hardware out of the hull if the whole thing decides to spin. If that's not feasible, you'll likely be ok from the top only, but proceed with caution.
 

tomc585

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From the picture it looks like he's had a wrench on it already. Someone may have sealed it with 5200. I'd still try to cut loose the adheasive (if any) before cranking down on it again.
 

John_Madison CT

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I just took mine off.(just the seacock, not the scoop). I was able to get it off with a pipe wrench. It's a matter of leverage. Use the longest wrench you can get in there.

My seacock wasn't sealing anymore. I replaced it but didn't touch the scoop. It just spins on.
 

Jday

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Thanks for the replies. The pipe wrench didn't work. I ended up getting a cut off blade for an angle grinder and made several cuts. Went right through the bronze. I was disappointed I had to destroy all of it, but it's off.
When ordering new, is the diamenter stated the outside diameter of the threaded pipe or the inside.
 

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Swatski

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@warthog5 your 5200 allergy is comical.

My comment above was made tongue-in-cheek, but that does not change the fact 5200 is the best sealant for those kind of jobs, under the water line.

Especially in a hull with wooden core, for God's sake, nothing would dissuade me from using anything but the strongest sealant available. Either 5200, or epoxy, permanent either way. There is zero debate about it. Anything going into a large hole in the hull under water is considered built-in. The factory mounted thruhull sonar is permanent. So is the epoxy paint under water line.

"For this exact reason." - what is this exact reason? anticipatory anxiety of needing to remove something built-in twenty years down the road? lol. I hope not.

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pelagic2530

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@warthog5 your 5200 allergy is comical.

My comment above was made tongue-in-cheek, but that does not change the fact 5200 is the best sealant for those kind of jobs, under the water line.

Especially in a hull with wooden core, for God's sake, nothing would dissuade me from using anything but the strongest sealant available. Either 5200, or epoxy, permanent either way. There is zero debate about it. Anything going into a large hole in the hull under water is considered built-in. The factory mounted thruhull sonar is permanent. So is the epoxy paint under water line.

"For this exact reason." - what is this exact reason? anticipatory anxiety of needing to remove something built-in twenty years down the road? lol. I hope not.

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For the record, the hull isn't cored, it's solid fiberglass. You probably know this, but for the benefit of anyone else who might be reading.

Treating the factory mounted thu-hull sonar transducer as permanent could become a problem if you're ever planning on replacing/upgrading electronics at a later date.
 
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pelagic2530

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Thanks for the replies. The pipe wrench didn't work. I ended up getting a cut off blade for an angle grinder and made several cuts. Went right through the bronze. I was disappointed I had to destroy all of it, but it's off.
When ordering new, is the diamenter stated the outside diameter of the threaded pipe or the inside.
Outside diameter of the NPS scoop fitting is NOT the nominal dimension. Check out this chart: Straight Pipe Threads Table Chart ANSI | Engineers Edge | www.engineersedge.com. You should be able to measure the fitting and determine which size you had installed. Looks like either 3/4" or 1" (tough to see exactly from the picture).
 

Jday

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As it turns out it's 3/4". Can't find it local so I had to order it. Now I just wait.
 

Swatski

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For the record, the hull isn't cored, it's solid fiberglass. You probably know this, but for the benefit of anyone else who might be reading.

Treating the factory mounted thu-hull sonar transducer as permanent could become a problem if you're ever planning on replacing/upgrading electronics at a later date.
This hull has enough wood in stringers, transom, water intrusion anywhere will find it through fiberglass delamination.

If my factory mounted ducer ever becomes obsolete I would think twice about removing it; more likely cap it and leave it alone.

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warthog5

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in a hull with wooden core
Does not exist in these boats. There are ways to deal with wood coring that does NOT involve 5200 and they are superior...... 5200 in the situation in this thread......You may as well WELD it in. Transducers do go bad......Electronics do get Upgraded.... A Good X-ducer that was 5200 in...will be garbage when it's taken out . It will ether be Cut or Beat on....and no De Bond will Ever make it to the threads to break it down.......By the way......I actually do this kind of work.......a LOT.
 

GotChrist?

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5200 does NOT provide any more sealing properties than 4200. 5200 DOES provide more adhesion and makes the installation permanent. 5200 was not designed or intended for marine applications, but the fear-filled who think overdoing everything is the solution to future problems made it into an internet norm. 5200 was made for the aviation industry to fasten thin, lightweight veneers & panels to aircraft frames, interior walls, & bulkheads. People who use 5200 in their boats should state that when selling so buyers can walk away or have the owner at his expense and time, remove every instance of 5200 and rebed thru hulls and other items with the proper sealant so the prospective buyer doesn't have a future problem and come on the multiple boards searching for a solution on how to remove an item without botching it up.
5200 bubba's a job. 1620566889722.png

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1620567320949.png
 

Swatski

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Does not exist in these boats. There are ways to deal with wood coring that does NOT involve 5200 and they are superior...... 5200 in the situation in this thread......You may as well WELD it in. Transducers do go bad......Electronics do get Upgraded.... A Good X-ducer that was 5200 in...will be garbage when it's taken out . It will ether be Cut or Beat on....and no De Bond will Ever make it to the threads to break it down.......By the way......I actually do this kind of work.......a LOT.
Dude, you can use bubble gum, for all I care, you won't have any trouble removing it when the time comes, and cleanup is way easier than 5200, lol.

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