I NEVER use soapy water. Here’s what I do:
1) Make SURE your decal provider squares the top of the decal backing to the decal itself. If not square it up yourself – this is your datum. I also like to have at least a 1” blank space at the top of the decal, but sometimes your vendor doesn’t do this or you might need to position it up ‘tighter’ to wherever you’re going to affix the decal, but try for some ‘blank border’.
2) I turn the decal over and fold back on itself ½” of the top backing. Nice and square and with a firm crease.
3) Now align the decal square to the boat, position where needed, and secure the top band of the decal with 3M blue tape and rub it down well.
4) Then, wherever I can, I will cut vertical lines [between letters
] up from the bottom to “almost to the top” of the decal, making sure to leave the top ‘blank header’ intact, but making sure to cut through the backing all the way. Sharp pointy scissors work great here! Remember, you’ll be pulling down on the backing, pulling it away to expose the decal, but you need to leave the top band of the top-part of the decal intact, as this sets your squareness and holds it all together.
5) Then I start at one end or the other, pull down on the backing WHILE you use a plastic squeegee scraper to force the decal from the backing to the hull. Go slow and never pull the decal backing away to fast. You want that tape border hold the decal square and correct for positioning, while slowly transferring the decal to the hull.
6) By doing so, I will rarely get air bubbles, but if you do, STOP and use patience. Work them to the closest edge and get a hair dryer set on warm, and sometimes this helps to smooth it out a bit – warm, NOT hot.
7) Note – hot temps above 70-deg F can create problems if the decal material is too this … as it will stretch. If you peel backing away (straight down) while using the scrape to force down the decal, then it won’t pull at all.
Works for me!
... I don't have that model so I cannot comment on placement ...