NC Wildlife 21’ Parker Purchase

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cdellin

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Location
Charlotte NC
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Just purchased this NC wildlife Parker. Knew it needed work and the price reflected it. The boat has a 2014 300 etec. The NC Wildlife boats are customized to accommodate larger motors but figured this motor was too much for the boat. Thoughts on what I’m in for for transom repairs/reinforcement here?
 
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The wildlife boats are spec'd out and over-built to handle more than a civilian model.
Is there any signs of failure at the transom? Is the floor solid? I think i see some delamination.
That set up should haul asss! Clean it up and go boating!
 
The wildlife boats are spec'd out and over-built to handle more than a civilian model.
Is there any signs of failure at the transom? Is the floor solid? I think i see some delamination.
That set up should haul asss! Clean it up and go boating!
Thanks for the reply. No signs of failure. No flex. Will reglass that area.

Floor is flaking bad and wood exposed in areas. Going to have to peel up the old floor and reapply finish. Floor is still solid so I believe I can salvage the floor without a ton of work.
 

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Not sure on the motor yet. Going to try and run it this weekend to determine if it's worth putting the money in the floor.
 
Thanks for the reply. No signs of failure. No flex. Will reglass that area.

Floor is flaking bad and wood exposed in areas. Going to have to peel up the old floor and reapply finish. Floor is still solid so I believe I can salvage the floor without a ton of work.
Just went through this, that staining on the deck is not rust, it’s the wood tannin leaching out of the wood, that’s a wet core, and by the looks of it the cracking is well past the gelcoat, that looks like the top laminate has cracked, I would get a grinder out and start grinding the area of damage to see what the extent is. You can also drill breather holes in the deck and I bet anything water will leach out of the core. That boat looks abused, first step is checking the deck conditions and if wood is wet and not rotted then dry it and reinforce it with some glass. From the pictures the deck looks like it’s wet, I’d check below too and make sure the stingers are good.

Parker uses a lot of glass on their hulls so it’s hard to tell if the core is compromised. If the skin has split open the deck is 100 percent soaked, that brown stain is for sure the plywood tannins.

Good luck but I would recommend not just painting over that bc it will come back to haunt you
 
The transom looks skin looks like it delaminated from the core. That’s a wide and deep crack, I would be curious to see how much water intrusion made it inside the core. I have never seen that on a Parker hull, maybe the overpowered motor caused too much flex and it cracked the glass. If you do have to replace it, use coosa and epoxy with 1708 and reinforce it with knees tabbed into the deck and transom to handle the power
 
From my experience of dealing with WL Parker you can wash it and run it or take deck out. Your foam and stringers are most likely wet. Tank will go any time. You looking at 10-12 k repair. If you planning to use boat long therm it m be worth doing. Go with Coosa 100%IMG_4704.jpegIMG_4709.jpeg
 

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From my experience of dealing with WL Parker you can wash it and run it or take deck out. Your foam and stringers are most likely wet. Tank will go any time. You looking at 10-12 k repair. If you planning to use boat long therm it m be worth doing. Go with Coosa 100%View attachment 37602View attachment 37603
I agree with you assessment. Like your transom reinforcement. Looks like they created a bulkhead and knee braces to tie transom into deck. Where is the bilge access? How thick is the transom? I wonder if this is something we can do to hang more hp, if the lamination scheudle and coring the same on transom and all they added was that small area it looks like anyone can fabricate this
 
Trouble is you wet deck goes under transom brace. With delaminated transom you need to rebuild transom, deck and brace if you want to go with more power than ordinary version is designed. Having deck out will expose your stringers which are most likely wet and let you replace them and the tank. That’s why I said you practically rebuilding the boat if you are planning on keeping it.
 
I have the same boat as fishaddict. Here’s my 94 I just removed the deck and fuel tank. Probably looking at a transom as well. If I wasn’t doing the work myself there’s isn’t a chance in hell this would cost less than 12k
 

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From my experience of dealing with WL Parker you can wash it and run it or take deck out. Your foam and stringers are most likely wet. Tank will go any time. You looking at 10-12 k repair. If you planning to use boat long therm it m be worth doing. Go with Coosa 100%View attachment 37602View attachment 37603
Digging into the floor now to see the extent of water damage. If the boat was a freshwater boat, do you still think the tank is still a concern? I believe the boat was primarily used in freshwater.
 
Digging into the floor now to see the extent of water damage. If the boat was a freshwater boat, do you still think the tank is still a concern? I believe the boat was primarily used in freshwater.
My boat was freshwater only. I took the tank out and it still had holes
 
Opened up the floor and was surprised to see how good the overall condition was below deck. The floor was not saturated but was wet in a few areas. Replaced two sections of floor where the cracking was bad and ground out other areas of small cracking. Stringers appeared to be solid and fully encapsulated.
 

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