Need too get rust stains off cabin carpet on pilot house

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Brentons1045

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Does anyone know how to get rust stains off from the carpet going around inside of Parker cabin? I’m talking about under windows from rain and sides not the floor IMG_1227.jpeg
 
i do not see it from the pic. Nice cabin.

Are you asking about the brownish adhesive that can come through the carpet, or real stains?

The windows should not be a problem.

And are you really getting rain into it?
 
i do not see it from the pic. Nice cabin.

Are you asking about the brownish adhesive that can come through the carpet, or real stains?

The windows should not be a problem.

And are you really getting rain into it?
 

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Good pics.

I am assuming you are in salt water. If so, wipe down near windows when you are done with clean water.

The others look like you have a roof leak? Check penetratiions and see they are water tight.

Also, did you add anything through the side of the cabin for grab bars or anything similar where the nuts are inside? They did not look like stainless steel to me.

An oxidizing cleaner will help with the rust stains. Someone last week asked about vinyl cushion rust cleaning, Bar Keepers Friend diluted or another oxidizer. Metal pieces, need a metal cleaner like Flitz metal cleaner.

Is the boat also getting ventilated enough when it is sitting? I myself have not seen an interior looking like that.

When I ran in salt water in wavy conditions I would keep the side windows closed I would lubricate the bottom tracks of the windows too.

Others will know more that may have had similar in the past from bad storage.
 
Man, that looks like mold. Would it be possible to take a q-tip and put one little dab of diluted bleach in a tiny spot of the stain, for diagnosing purposes only? Give it 10 to 15 minutes and see what's up. It could be rust, but what is the origin? Is there rusted metal about?

I had one of these dudes I bought years ago when I purchased a beater car with sippy cup-stained carpets. I have used the heck out of it. I added just a little oxy clean and it did a wonderful job on my cabin carpet with the standard shampoo/oxy clean. I like the fact the dirt and mold is getting sucked back out of the carpet and into the vacuum tank.
Screenshot_20231210-200634.png
 
Oooh, I just saw your other thread with the rusty nuts/bolts. Those things need to go first. I would clean / rinse /dry that carpet well before I installed the new ones in case the carpet is salt-soaked.
Maybe bring that pic over to this thread? Apologies if I missed it.
 
Does anyone know how to get rust stains off from the carpet going around inside of Parker cabin? I’m talking about under windows from rain and sides not the floor View attachment 38914

IMG_3486.jpegIMG_3920.jpeg

How I cleaned the carpet / “Monkey Fur” on my 2005 Parker 2520xl.
The carpet, like other 17 year old Parkers had a lot of issues. I decided I would try to restore it instead of removing and painting. I’ve made significant improvements, what some have called “IMPRRSSIVE!!!”,

My Method:
FIRST: DON’T wash it with soap or soap cleaners. I was told by professional carpet cleaners that soap residue from these products would linger in the fabric annd attract more dirt.

Step 1: Loose fiber removal:
Besides the discoloration my carpet had a bad case of dandruff. When the overhead was rubbed you’d see large amounts of fiber and flakes falling.

Start by working a 2 sq ft area at a time. Wear a mask.
• Apply a Firm nylon brush with medium pressure in circular patterns to break out loose fibers while applying shop vac at same time. WEAR A MASK!
NOTE: Depending on boats age It may take multiple passes with brush & shop vac before loose flakey stuff is gone.
• Brushing did break out short fibers but left long fibers on surface; like the the fuzz & hairballs on an old worn sweater. Not a problem, see Step 2.

Step 2: The Haircut:
To treat the long fibers I gave the whole thing a haircut with a hair trimmer. The type of trimmer a barber would use. No spacer on blades. Push the rear surface of the blade into the carpet as you move the trimmer ahead with cutting edge slightly up. This positioning doesn’t allow trimmer to dig in and hang up. This works very well, it leaves a tight looking carpet weave appearance.

Step 3: STAIN REMOVAL
• There were stains of all types, many were rust from thru bolts (304 SS which needs to b replaced with 316 SS).

•The best stain treatment I found is called “FOLEX carpet spot remover”. Folex can b found on line, at local markets, and hardware stores.

NOTE:
• Some stain removers had very strong caustic odor and I was concerned working with them in close quarters or having them on my skin.
Folex is clear & odorless.
• I was impressed with how SOME stains disappeared quickly, others were more stubborn. But with multiple applications they all disappeared.

• I believe Folex is an enzyme-based product rather than soap-based. The enzymes break up stains so they can b blotted up with dry terry cloth. It was impressive how some stains disappeared almost immediately.

APPLICATION:
• Apply liberally to stain and surrounding area with spray bottle, One sq ft area. Let soak in and set a couple minutes,.
• Spray again before Agitating with white terry towel (TT) by rubbing in a circular motion (in both directions) and crosshatch pattern. Then blot with another dry TT to blot up stain and excess liquid. (You should see stain color on your blotting T-Towel.)
LET DRY; repeat process as many times as needed. Folex isn’t expensive, found it at local big name hardware for $20 p/gal.

• CHANGE TOWELS FREQUENTLY. You can wash and dry the towels and reuse them.
• I found cutting a typical washcloth size towel into 4 pieces worked best for me. Once the small cloth was dirty I would switch to a clean one.
• If it didn’t remove all the stain, or if the stain seemed to re-appear I just kept reapplying, rubbing, blotting, and drying.

During ten months of refitting the cabin I applied the stain removal process in between other jobs. Of course you could approach it as a single project

With the exception of Step-1 this process was reasonably easy; especially when compared to; “remove & replace”, or “remove & paint”.

FINISHING TOUCH:
1. When all appeared clean I applied the shop vac’d to raise any long hairs followed by another “Hair Cut” process as needed.

People laugh about the “haircut” but it’s this part of the process that makes all the difference. It leaves a clean, tight weave appearance!

A year later and it still makes me smile….😁
Good luck, I hope this helps.

NOTE: I have no affiliation with Folex. I’m just saying this product worked for me and want to help the Parker family with a common issue.

I like the carpet better than paint. Now I’ve found an easy way to maintain by applying the “Spray, Rub, & Blot” process.
 
X2 on Folex. It's a secret used by all furniture companies and stores to fix delivery & showroom stain issues
 
I've had success using Spray Nine. Saturate the stain, rub with a towel until it gets white and foamy, then wipe off.
Worked great removing coffee stains from the carpet next to the cup holder.
 
Imagine the inside of the PH being a light colored Line-x vs carpet. Sound absorbing, soft to the touch and tough. Just break out the scrub brush, done in 20 minutes.
I like the carpet also, btw, and I have some Folex in my future.
 
Imagine the inside of the PH being a light colored Line-x vs carpet. Sound absorbing, soft to the touch and tough. Just break out the scrub brush, done in 20 minutes.
I like the carpet also, btw, and I have some Folex in my future.
Are you talking about the truck spray on bed liner?
• Do they make it in a white or off white color?
• Soft to the touch? I thought its durability made it pretty rigid. Does it have the usual bed liner wrinkled finish?
 
Are you talking about the truck spray on bed liner?
• Do they make it in a white or off white color?
• Soft to the touch? I thought its durability made it pretty rigid. Does it have the usual bed liner wrinkled finish?
Some thread somewhere, here or THT, there was a crazy expensive quote.
They make a gray. The spray action is what makes the texture. The stuff mixes and is dry almost as soon as it touches down. The tape has a wire at the edge that cuts as the tape is pulled.
I will look later. Sorry for the sidetrack, but I think the stain question might be solved.
 
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