Parker 17 / 18 CC wheel house

[SamR]

It wouldn’t be hard to fab a window that tilts forward. That’s my plan anyway. Vents, cowls and hatches can be an inexpensive solution too.

Second thought: you could make it hinged and removable. Stow it under the hardtop. Going to have to steal this idea for myself
MARINE CITY 316 Grade Stainless Steel Hatch Hinge with Removable Pin (2-5/8 × 2-7/8 Inches) for Boat Cabins – Doors – Windows – Cabinets – Kayaks – Yacht Doors (Pack of 1) https://a.co/d/65UWEc2

 

[Longislandfish]

It wouldn’t be hard to fab a window that tilts forward. That’s my plan anyway. Vents, cowls and hatches can be an inexpensive solution too.

Second thought: you could make it hinged and removable. Stow it under the hardtop. Going to have to steal this idea for myself
MARINE CITY 316 Grade Stainless Steel Hatch Hinge with Removable Pin (2-5/8 × 2-7/8 Inches) for Boat Cabins – Doors – Windows – Cabinets – Kayaks – Yacht Doors (Pack of 1) https://a.co/d/65UWEc2

I’d like to see how you can make a window
Frame. I was thinking of using glassed wood and gluing it to the outside setting glass in the opening then using another glassed pieced to hold it from the inside

 

[Longislandfish]

I’m currently glassing, learning alot, making a lot of mistakes but that’s what it’s all about.

1.5oz Matt x2 outside. Fillet inside radius with peanut butter.

Have a guy making me windows

Fairing is going to be fun…..


For anyone ever looking to use poly resin and ply, just know it’s not the best choice, the bond is not great even after a hot coat, the trick is grinding the wood really good before the hot coat and cleaning the wood with acetone. Lay the glass on after it tacks up.

Should have used vinyl but it is what it is.

If I like this design I’m going to build a melamine mold and do it right and be done

 

[SamR]

Interesting note on the poly/ply compatibility. Layup in a mold is so much easier for me. If you want to save some money on the mold, people are always throwing away tables that can be cannibalized.

I need to get into vacuum bagging next.

 

[Longislandfish]

Interesting note on the poly/ply compatibility. Layup in a mold is so much easier for me. If you want to save some money on the mold, people are always throwing away tables that can be cannibalized.

I need to get into vacuum bagging next.

I want to do a mold too but I figured it would be easier for me to do it this way. Time will tell

 

[John G]

I have a 2016 23 SE with a factory installed t-top. The wind shield on the console extends about a quarter of the way up to the t-top. I use the boat in the Chesapeake Bay. Late spring through mid fall, I am extremely glad for the air flowing over the wind shield. I doubt you would regret some sort of wind passage through your design.

 

[Longislandfish]

I’m happy with the result. 2 layers of 1.5oz Matt outside, 3 in radius windows. 1 inch crown top with 24 inch overhang. Will be through bolted in existing windshield location with 5/16 stainless hardware and steel backing plate. Laminated 1/4 glass windows with extruded locking window gaskets.

1 more layer inside left of Matt with some stiffeners and another roof gusset. Overall solid and around 70lbs

Aiming for 100lbs all said and done.

Solid and purposeful with some compromises

 

[warthog5]

If your not done yet?

Let me make a suggestion. Take a piece of 3/4in sch 20 PVC.....Sand it and split it lengthwize in the table saw. Now glue and laminate over it down the underside center of the roof. This will be the wire chase for your anchor light towards the backside top of the roof.

 

[Longislandfish]

If your not done yet?

Let me make a suggestion. Take a piece of 3/4in sch 20 PVC.....Sand it and split it lengthwize in the table saw. Now glue and laminate over it down the underside center of the roof. This will be the wire chase for your anchor light towards the backside top of the roof.

Should I do the same On inside corner Starboard for radar mount and lumitec spreader?

I also want port and starboard lights up top by the corners

 

[SamR]

Should I do the same On inside corner Starboard for radar mount and lumitec spreader?

I also want port and starboard lights up top by the corners

I would. I’m building chases into mine which also add to the structure.

Really enjoying following your build. Thank you for sharing.

 

[Longislandfish]

I would. I’m building chases into mine which also add to the structure.

Really enjoying following your build. Thank you for sharing.

Glad you are enjoying it man. Sorry if it’s repetitive, never used glass before but am really enjoying making this as its been a dream for awhile.

I think once’s all faired out and gel coated with glass windows and radar it’s going to be awesome!! And I can still sling plugs and fly cast and not break all my rods on the Top!!

Any suggestions for the closest match gelcoat other than Cecil I’m going to need at least a Gallon, was going to use oyster white, same color code as awlgrip oyster white but in gelcoat, with roll several coats and fair it and polish Upto 3k grit

 

[warthog5]

Yes.... Do all the chases you need.

TIP on slicing the PVC...... Use A nice stright 1 X 2.... Screw it to one side of the PVC with 2 drywall screws... Keeping the screws so they Do Not meet the center of the PVC..... Now you can set your tablesaw up to run the 1 X 2 aginst the fence and split the PVC. The screw holes don't matter,as your going to Glass over them.

Run your chases a Lil short so you can fish your wiring easy... IE: If you turning the run 90degs leave a space... Yes you will see 1in or 1 1/2in of wire there... It will be fine and Sooooo much easier to rig.

 

[SamR]

I am going the gelcoat route and mixing my own. Color matching was a fun little puzzle for my head. I ended up with a recipe made from off the shelf tints mixed to make the hue I wanted, then mixed into Total Boat white. Although my initial design for a console top ebox failed due to my layup skills, the mold, radiuses, prep and gelcoat worked well.

In theory, I should be able to mix up any size batch as needed.

Thanks to your inspiration I will be jumping back into my doghouse version when I get back from vacation.

 

[Longislandfish]

I am going the gelcoat route and mixing my own. Color matching was a fun little puzzle for my head. I ended up with a recipe made from off the shelf tints mixed to make the hue I wanted, then mixed into Total Boat white. Although my initial design for a console top ebox failed due to my layup skills, the mold, radiuses, prep and gelcoat worked well.

In theory, I should be able to mix up any size batch as needed.

Thanks to your inspiration I will be jumping back into my doghouse version when I get back from vacation.
View attachment 37479View attachment 37480View attachment 37481

Sometime inspiration is all the we need in order to succeed. I’m glad you are going to build your dog house, if you need help feel free to message me, I have the measurements and angles as I drew it all up from my mind and then built it. One thing to keep in mind is the proportions of the house, I kept my recipe simple, I doubled the length of the grab rail and it wound up being 78 inches from the deck. The overall length of the console forward to aft is 45 inches. The console is 33 inches tall at the heigh point from deck. So I simply build it 44 inches, then added 1 inch crown to my roof for overall heigh of 45 inches.

Some suggestions coming from pro building experts of Pilothouse suggested making the house only 3-4 inches taller than the driver, however I’m not tall at 5/9 so it felt squashed. I did like the the look of the shorter house at 42 inches but Anyone 6ft tall won’t be happy.

I think with the compromise of the loss of the small area it makes it look taller than it really is. I didn’t want a straight windshield and glad I didn’t plan on it bc it would have looked like hell and way too boxy.

I did a Portuguese rake window at 15deg, anything past the 15 deg mark is pushing it since the front pass head on console would be hitting there head. I started my take off point 8 inches from the top of the console, so that gave an average height person comfortable amount of head room without encroaching the seating area and giving a nice pro look IMO.

I took inspiration of 100s of pictures and designs. Truthfully I was a little worried that it would look bad, but I don’t think there are too many options for design since our consoles are very limited in their shape. The driving angle of the helm is also awkward so there’s that as well.

The best approach for a custom house would be to remove this one, save it for any future use or reverting back to stock, make a mold and fab a true 1 person phone booth house with molded in dash and storage. Also a cambered roof with drip edges and radius brows.

Could you share your recipe for the gelcoat match? I would like to try to get it close? If you can give me the ratio I can adjust for the volume I need.

Best of luck bud

 

[SamR]

Could you share your recipe for the gelcoat match? I would like to try to get it close? If you can give me the ratio I can adjust for the volume I need.

Best of luck bud

Will do as soon as I get back from vacation. All my notes are there.

Thanks for the detailed reply. That 3-4” of headroom is helpful. I’ll need to factor in my height against a leaning post too.

 

[miketheserviceguy]

Got the windows cut out, started sanding the hard edges for the glass work. Overall looks really nice. Will hit coat with polyester resin, and let cure, the lay 2 layers of .75oz csm inside and out. Maybe some tape for the seams. Haven’t decided on lexan windows through bolted with a painted edge, order windows which would be insane or try and source a very odd side extruded window locking trim gasket which is 240 bucks for 36 ft.

Laminated glass will run me 125 bucks for all three so the only cost prohibitive item is the gasket.

Lexan will run 150 for 1/4 4x8 sheet

Just saw this local to me on a 17

 

[Longislandfish]

Badass 13 years later thing is still together and looks great! The guy who build that did a great job, I believe the boat is in MA somewhere. The guy who started This thread built it with his father, awesome stuff

Just saw this local to me on a 1

 

[Longislandfish]

Just saw this local to me on a 17

Looks like he used very few layers of probably 1708 and Matt, if I had to guess 3/16 inch laminate…. Maybe 1/4 but it deff looks a lot thinner, he used stiffeners aft and molded all parts in what I would assume a one off melamine mold. The benefit is the structure is super light weight, easier to source the window lock gasket and comes out one side finished. Looks like he finished inside with csm and just rolled gelcoat ontop. Great job. I went with ply since I’m green

 

[Longislandfish]

Making progress, finished my repair on the port bilge finally so I took break from glassing this, plus the heat was just too hard to work in.

Started fairing the outside and glassing the inside with 1708. A lot of grinding and sanding but that’s the process.

Once the inside is all glassed I’ll fair it and continue grinding and sanding. Hoping to be done and finished in another 2-3 weeks.

Haven’t decided on gelcoat or 2 part polyurethane paint like perfection.

If I go the paint route I’ll epoxy prime it and make sure it’s near perfect before painting it.

Gelcoat I can build up and fair back, both ways are time consuming, but for a nice finish that’s the cost.