Parker 2830 Extended cabin updates:

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I saw you mentioned that repower in your future but you were going to use the current ones for a season or so. If they check out ok and are running good why not and it will give you a chance to work on other stuff and evaluate everything including performance power wise as is currently. If I were to repower I would be looking at those Suzzuki's also. I do like the Yamaha 4.2's as well. They would be the only 2 on my list. I'd love to put the Yam 300 on my 2120. As would be only a single and I'm playing around with adding an inverter to run my AC underway for periods of time, the Yam has a 70A output vs 55A and its 44lbs lighter. As you know on the 2120's the weight is an issue and if I go inverter I will also have to put at least a 100HR house bat in my port jump or in the bilge. I'll need to cut all the weight I can. In the end though, the engine itself trumps those 2 considerations. I've been very impressed with the Suzzuki's on the boats I've been on with them. Did a charter a few years ago and the guy had 3,500 hrs on his Suz 250 and it ran like a top. Looking forward to seeing your projects. I'm just a little jealous :D
 
I would have done the corrosion scoping before buying. I hope you do not have the issue big $$ if you do. Best of luck with the new boat!
 
miky2884":3h8sua3z said:
I would have done the corrosion scoping before buying. I hope you do not have the issue big $$ if you do. Best of luck with the new boat!
Click to expand...

You are assuming I would have walked away from the purchase if the exhaust housing showed corrosion. It's a $1500 resolution / motor if affected which 5% of yamahas are from 2001-2006
I bought this package for the hull. The motors are bonus. If affected I'll have them corrected- if not, sweet!
Thanks for your input- Miky
 
She's up on the hard and my local boatyard. I'm having some gelcoat repair done and I'll compound, Polish and seal the gelcoat.
I have a question regarding the transom hatches. They were used as cutting boards for 14 years.
They are salvageable by removing the top 1/32" of the nylon marine board material.
I started doing that tonight w 60 grt sandpaper, and the area I did came out nice.

But you see how much I've sanded in 30 min and (4) 5" hook n loop pads. Orbital sander.

Anything tool wise that would plane 1/32 " material of the top of these hatches to expedite the process??





It's the four hatches and one center piece across the transom seen here.







Progress is super slow: about 3" on right side of screen is sanded so far.... Suggestions?
 
Find someone with a surface planer or drum sander. Woodworking shop or good boatyard. Might cost a few bucks but in the overall scheme of things.....
 
Right these are great suggestions: My father in law is a master woodworker- he has his own shop with every tool imaginable. I didn't want to bother him today as he had his appendix out 2 days ago… ironically, my mother in law had a blepharoplasty yesterday ( plastic surgery on her eyelids and crow's feet)…so, they have both been under the knife in the last 48 hours. I will ask My Father in law today what he has to expedite the process. Then I'll report back. Thanks fellas.
 
A well equipped wood working shop could probably run them through a planer for you.
Any place that sells exotic woods or maybe a cabinet maker should have a planer.
 
I did mine prior to selling. The new owner didn't want to use as cutting board. They are not perfectly flat so a planer while quick might not give the desired results. I used a heavy orbiter sander with 60 grit or lower to start. Higher grit for the edges to make them smooth. They returned to their original condition.
 
Well the hatches came out really great - I am thrilled with the end result... I still need to polish them.
I used 36 grit in the belt sander and finished them with 60 then 120 grit on the orbital sander.
Before:







During:



After:



 
Good morning. I recently picked up a sweet little rocket launcher/ bait tray. I will be refinishing it shortly. I would like utilize this station on the inside transom horizontal surface using rod holders and fabricated aluminum stand off tube(s). I would like to mount one or two (to disperse the load) rod holders on the inside cockpit side of the horizontal surface of the middle of the transom. The rod holder (s) will be thru-bolted with an extended backing plate to again disperse the load. I will have one of our local marine fabricators make some "S" shaped mounting tubes that will be permanently attached to the bottom of the rigging station that will slip into and lock into the rod holder (s) permanently mounted on the inside transom.
Here is the bait rigging station:







Here is the location and similar set up that I would like to incorporate into our cockpit.





At this location above my capacity plate on the horizontal surface that extends across the top as seen here:



The LAST thing I want to do is compromise the integrity of both the fiberglass and gelcoat in this area. What do you guys think about thru-bolting to this location with weight and strain of bumpy seas, 45 pounds of rods/ reels and the rigging station (total weight) in the rocket launcher while underway. The rod holders will be permanently mounted, and the aluminum tubes will sit inside the rocket launchers when utilized and removed and stowed away when not in use.

I did email Parker Marine this question, but have yet to hear back from them :? I did email "central marine" in St. Pete Florida where I bought my last Parker new from them. His answer was "that would be a great question for the manufacturer".. :roll:

So, I take it to you professionals. Suggestions or input from anyone with a full transom and can attest to it's strength for this application?
 
A professional I am not but I would think it would be fine. I would use 2 mounts though and as you mentioned a good backing plate. With that method, I would think it will be solid.
 
shawnee83":10c96hyf said:
A professional I am not but I would think it would be fine. I would use 2 mounts though and as you mentioned a good backing plate. With that method, I would think it will be solid.
Click to expand...

Thanks Shawnee- I can always count on you to reply w your opinion.
Anyone else have input? Specifically to NOT go forward w this plan??...
 
I have no idea. However, I just finished flush mounting my chart plotter and I was blown away by how beefy the glass work was in the dash area. Laminate and plywood core well over an inch thick. I burned through two saber saw blades and had to finish the job with my Fein. If the back of the boat is anything like that you will have no problem.
Would it be possible to epoxy some marine ply or Coosa board in the gap behind the fiberglass?
 
rwp48":z4zhni7u said:
I have no idea. However, I just finished flush mounting my chart plotter and I was blown away by how beefy the glass work was in the dash area. Laminate and plywood core well over an inch thick. I burned through two saber saw blades and had to finish the job with my Fein. If the back of the boat is anything like that you will have no problem.
Would it be possible to epoxy some marine ply or Coosa board in the gap behind the fiberglass?
Click to expand...

RWP: thanks for the suggestion and the testimony. Yes, our Parkers are over-built and robust. I am going to thru-bolt three rod holders: one on the midline, and one on each side 8 inches from the midline on center. I'll have one large flat backing plate made from aluminum to span all three rod holders. The center rod holder will be used for a shot gun line way out back, and the two side rod holders will be used to accept the stand off tubes mounted to the bait rigging tray. Thanks fellas. Pics to follow.
 
Syndgoose, with 3 mounting points and that large aluminum backing plate I would think it will be plenty strong. The only other thing that might be worth considering would be to use some epoxy, polyester resign or some type of bonding method on that semi finished/rough glass work where you are mounting that backing plate? I don't know which one, if any would bond with the aluminum? I think it will be fine with just the thru bolts holding it on but....? I say all of this as I'm assuming that part is only about 1/4" or so thick or about the thickness of the side of the dash on a 2120 or the side panels on the gunnels? Mabe Wart or one of the other guys who are good fabricators will answer about the bonding and if it's worth messing with?
 
Received an email from Parker this afternoon, and they have confirmed that thru-bolting from the cockpit bulkhead into the fishbox will withstand the torque produced from the weight of the unit while under way. It was recommended to use a backing plate; two points of attachment would be superior than a single stand off tube into a rod holder.
I still may back fill w coosa board and thickened epoxy to negate any void between the shroud and the structural glass as RWP suggested.
Thanks Shawnee. Pics will be a couple weeks forthcoming due to my aluminum fabricators schedule.
 
Love your boat.
Question for you. Are those in deck fish boxes under the deck hatches?
If so, when you get a chance would love to see a picture of them opened up.
Thanks and congrats on finding what I wish I had found 8)
 
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