primer bulb and fuel flow problem?

[jimikinz]

Hello,

So I am over (hopefully) the ethanol issues with my F200, but I have a new issue that is puzzling me. I recently replaced the old primer bulb from the factory with a new one. It is one of those perko models. I was a little dubious because it seemed softer and less well made than the stock one, but I caved due to my concerns over leaving any part of the old ethanol-laced fuel system in place.

I have been running the new bulb for a month or so, and all seemed well until I had the boat down in Baja this weekend. I noticed that the bulb was sucked flat while running. The engine performed fine, and did not feel as though it was starving for fuel. I immediately stopped, and disassembled the fuel system. The result was that there was no blockage, the lines were clear, the racor was not wetted out, the anti-siphon and picup tube were clean.

The only thing I can think of is that the bulb material was not "strong" enough to resist the draw of the fuel through the line. I noticed that if I cooled the bulb a bit, it "pulled" the fuel better when priming. The temps were in the 100+ degrees, and I came to the conclusion that this put the already inferior material past its working abibility.

My question is this: Does that sound like a logical conculsion? I am going to replace the bulb with a factory Yammie one, but I want to be sure that I am not missing some other part of the problem.

 

[DaleH]

FWIW, those non-OB-maker primer bulbs (Moeller, Perko, or Tempo) are pure CRAP! Replace it now! Yes, they are indeed softer (read: durometer) and even the checkvalve design is poor at best. They would be sucked closed for V6 motors even when not running ethanol fuels. A few brands were dissected on the THT website and the interior construction differences were amazing!

That said, the 2 best primer bulbs on the market are the ones made by OMC/Bombardier or Mercury. My local Merc dealer even uses the Bombardier ones on every Mercury he sells as he feels they are the best on the market ... and he races cars on the off-season and is a true gearhead.

Now, you can surely buy a replacement Yummie, Honda, or Suzuki primer bulb too, but I guarantee you this ... it will be the SAME item as comes out wearing a US label (Merc or Bomb) but due to the pricing structure of the Japanese companies ... it'll cost you 2 to 3 times as much for the SAME product!

I can quote you more examples of this situation (cost of Jap parts) whether it be TC-W3 oil, waterproof synthetic grease, primer bulbs, lower unit hypoid grease, or even fuel/water separator cartridges. Personally I don't care whose OB-brand primer bulb you buy ... just please throw away anything like the cheap Tempo or Perko ones. I would only feel comfortable using them on 10hp or smaller motor, and only 'cuz I'd likely have oars on board. I guess that makes me biased ... huh??

 

[Megabyte]

My question is this: Does that sound like a logical conculsion?

You have it exactly right, and Dale explained why.
Once you replace that bulb, you should see a definate improvement. :wink:

 

[jimikinz]

Well all right! I'm glad that it was what I thought. I'll be getting a new bulb ASAP. Thanks for the informative reply Dale H.

 

[Outta Here]

Now, you can surely buy a replacement Yummie, Honda, or Suzuki primer bulb too, but I guarantee you this ... it will be the SAME item as comes out wearing a US label (Merc or Bomb) but due to the pricing structure of the Japanese companies ... it'll cost you 2 to 3 times as much for the SAME product!

I can quote you more examples of this situation (cost of Jap parts) whether it be TC-W3 oil, waterproof synthetic grease, primer bulbs, lower unit hypoid grease, or even fuel/water separator cartridges. I ??

Interesting concept there...I wonder if the same holds true in auto business. Example: You think maybe Lexus, Toyota and Honda buys parts from maybe Ford Escape, marks them up 2 or 3 times and uses them on Avalons, Acuras etc? :lol: