Running engine with flushing adapter

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Catfish

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Location
Occoquan, VA
Hello

I am new to this forum and have recently purchased a new Parker 2008 2520XL with a 250 Yamaha four stroke. I was told by the dealer at delivery to never run the engine with a clamshell device. Only to flush with hose to water inlet. That Yamahas dont pick up water well and if I wanted to run the engine to put it in a tank only. I have previously had Mercurys and Suzukis and always ran them periodicly with a clam shell device on the lower unit after a winter storage or if I hadnt used the boat as often as I liked so there would be no surprises at the dock. Any thoughts or comments.

Thanks
Catfish
 
I used to run mine for 5-10 mins. with the hose hooked up to the flush adaptor at the top of the motor. Then I read here on CP that this was not recomended by Yamaha and it also was not necessary. Now I just hook up the hose and flush water through it for 15 mins and that is that.
 
f250 yamaha manual says do not run motor with the upper hose attachment (just below engine cowl stbd side). however the certified yamaha dealer in this area does just that......i don't do it personally. if i want to run the motor, i use muffs that deliver water from both sides, and i also wrap a bungee cord all the way around to hold them tight. with the bungee, the engine will pee. without, it will not.

99 percent of the time i rinse the motor with the upper hose attachment without running for about 20 minutes.
 
Use the hose adapter and do not run the engine. I tilt the engine up slightly until water comes out the upper pee hole (grouperjim). This is all that is needed and anything else is a overkill. It's easy and works well. :wink:
 
Porkchunker":17wg7675 said:
All I ever do is use the hose flush connector...I never run them on the muffs. Not necessary.

Same for me.

I scrub the boat down, then attach my wash hose to the flush port and have a beverage.
No need to run the motor on the hose. The factory supplies a perfectly engineered flush port that does a great job. :wink:
 
if you did some maintenance such as a water pump change etc. you wouldn't run the engine on some muffs prior to launching? i think it would be necessary. no?
 
Congrats on the new boat. Use the built in flush connector and while you are at it, start off with good habits.

I know some guys don't bother flushing and have never had any problems with their motors but I choose to use this product every time I run the motor.
 

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When i first purchased my boat i was running the boat on the muffs - i didnt even know about the hose adaptor.

Now when we get back to the slip, i lift the engine out of the water and run the hose to it. I use kevin's method, except he has a beverage, I use the time to filet the fish.

I've done my water pump twice now (every other year whether it needs it or not) and both times my water pumps and seals have looked brandy new...

I've seen teh salt away stuff, but I have so many soaps and additives and things in my cabin if I put one more on board I will cry.
 
pelagic2530":fode2vva said:
what if you need to run the engine when the boat is not in the water? if the flush connector doesnt cut it for that, what should be done?

Use double-feed muffs if you have them, get them tight, and use as good a flow of water as you can get.
Never run the motor on the flush port. It is for flushing, and only when the motor is not running.
 
I run my F150 every month instead of fogging because I have no time to get it in the water over the summer. However, I don't fog because (1) I like to have the boat ready for a last minute trip, (2) Fogging is a PITA, (3) I like to charge the batteries with the motor, (4) I enjoy sitting in the fiberglass yard monument while quaffing a beverage and smoking a cigar, (5) Running the motor flushes out the mud daubers and other insects that inevitably build nests in every orifice. Number 4 above gives me a general feeling of false class superiority and satisfies the urge to be on the water when I might otherwise go postal from work stress.

I use a large rectangular 60 gallon Rubbermaid trash can filled with water to run the motor. If you have access to one of these plastic cans it will slip under the motor when tilted, then tilt back to vertical. Place a support under the can to elevate it so that water will cover the upper intake slots and the water pump impeller will also be submerged. Run motor and trickle enough water from the hose to replace the amounts lost from the indicator stream. Occasionally monitor the temperature of the water in the can to ensure that it is not getting too warm.

I can usually run my motor for fifteen minutes easily using this process and the water never gets warmer than 80 degrees. This is my method and it works for me. Simply drain the can with a short siphon hose after you're finished and remove the can. During the winter I am on the water at least every other week and running the motor on the trailer is not necessary.

When new I ran the motor on muffs a couple of times but they never really sealed well and the indicator stream did not seem strong enough. When I replaced the water pump impeller last fall I noticed the plastic housing had a couple of areas in it that appeared to have heated enough to melt slightly. I'm going to go out on a limb with this blanket statement: When running the motor without enough water for proper cooling the plastic water pump housing is going to take a beating and QUICK! I would think 30 seconds might be all it would take. As far as the impeller blades, they appear to be fairly robust. Mine were in great shape after 400 hours - Still replaced it though.

If you crank up after a long interval and your indicator stream does not work, check the flush port. If there is strong water there you are okay. A mud dauber has blocked the hose to the stream port. Get a long piece of stiff wire and rout out the hose, disconnect it if necessary. Be sure to check if the lower unit is submerged enough to suck in water for cooling. The long slots must be under water, not just the high speed pickups. In winter sometimes the indicator stream hose will have frozen water trapped in it. Again, check the flush port, then wait for the motor to warm up the hoses for proper indicator stream operation. Always drain the flush port before reattaching so it does not freeze as well.

Whenever I find the indicator stream not functioning I shut down the motor and problem solve. I never take the chance on overheating the water pump and destroying the housing. I only continue to run the motor after I verify that there is indeed water being pulled into the pump.

Probably more than anybody ever wanted to know/read about this stuff!
 
During the first year I owned her, I mistakenly ran it on flush muffs in the driveway after replacing a water pump. Needless to say, I burned up a new impeller QUICK! I have now found the neccessary secret for running the motor out of the water and that is to hook up a Y adapter in your garden hose and run one to the upper flush adapter while one goes to the lower muffs. This primes the entire thing and it pee's fine while running if you have to. Hope this helps. Oh, and use the round type of flush muffs usually they are the cheapest. For some reason they work better than the square dual feeds... You can also remove the plastic screen protectors on the lower unit intake holes if you like...
 
I was using just the Yamaha flush connecter but I recently got a tip from my mechanic.
I keep my 2320 in a slip so this won't work for everyone.
He suggested connectiong the hose but run the engine while lowered in the water to get it good and warm. The turn off the engine and tilt her up.
This way the thermostat will open up and allow the fresh water to flow throughout.
Dave
 
I agree with Buddah. When I first purchased my 2007 2120 Sport Cabin, the dealer instructed me to run two hoes; one to the lower unit for the mufflers and one hose to the flusher. They told me I had to do this because it was a bigger engine. When I had my former boat w/115 hp Yamaha 2 stroke, I only needed the mufler.
 
5150 dude has it right. To flush your motor, you must do it right after you shut down the motor. The thermostat will close if about 0ne or two min. If you wait to long and it closes --your not flushing the head of the motor, your doing the lower unit ONLY.
5150 is right . Leave your motor running, get it hot, then flush it. I donot like titing the motor up because the water doesnot flow up into the heads good and it may burn them.
 
Marty D":2hi5xaqg said:
5150 dude has it right. To flush your motor, you must do it right after you shut down the motor. The thermostat will close if about 0ne or two min. If you wait to long and it closes --your not flushing the head of the motor, your doing the lower unit ONLY.
5150 is right . Leave your motor running, get it hot, then flush it. I donot like titing the motor up because the water doesnot flow up into the heads good and it may burn them.

Unless you are running it on the muffs. the thermostats will close as soon as the cool water hits it?, so whats the point.
 
Unless you are running it on the muffs. the thermostats will close as soon as the cool water hits it?, so whats the point.[/quote]


Thats what I think too... 8)
 

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